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Having trouble with my Sov Elite

jsparkyii

New member
Hello everyone,

I'm new to detecting and I just bought a used Sov Elite. I've had if for about a month with no problems. The issue now though is it all of the sudden has no threshold or it's very choppy sounding at the least. Does anyone know if this is a settings issue on my part or does the machine need to be taken to a dealer for service? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John
 
Hummmm Check your coil cover for soil or sand underneath it. Check your cable connections, battery, also try to wiggle your cable once everything it tight and connected maybe broken wires.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave, I've done all those things you speak of and it still does the choppy, erratic threshold sound or no sound at all. It worked fine until today when I turned it on. The only thing I can think of is that I painted the aluminum shaft yesterday, but I just don't think that has anything to do with it.
 
First, I'd make sure the headphones are good and there is no short in the headphone jack. Try removing the headphones and see if the speaker sounds the same. But, my guess is that the pot for the threshold is dirty. If the machine is no longer under warranty it's always a good idea to clean all your switches and pots with some electrical cleaner first before sending it in somewhere. I bet 9 times out of 10 a problem with a Sovereign is just a dirty switch or pot. That's one of the big drawbacks to hip mounting because any dirt or sand on your hand falls down and sits right on the face plate.

While I'm at it, who has a good cheap source for those rubber boot switches? I'm guessing an electronic parts store would be much cheaper than buying them from a Sunray or Minelab dealer but I don't know what size they are off hand. Anybody have a link?

Don't use WD-40 or anything else to clean pots or switches. Pick up a good electrical contact cleaner from Radio Shack or Home Depot. You want the type that doesn't leave any lubrication or residue. Most of the time you won't even need to remove the switch. Just spray it into the toggle's opening. Pots can be tricky but some times it's possible to do it with them as well without needing to get inside to access it better. In RC a lot of servos go bad because the pot has dirt or carbon built up in it. I've salvaged a whole pile of servos by cleaning the pots on them, but I took those pots completely apart do clean them properly. Still, most of the time you can get some spray in there just by getting near the dial shaft and forcing it in.

In a pinch on something I don't care much about like the old boom box in my garage, you can use WD40 to clean switches and such. It's probably OK for switches but the reason why it's a bad idea for pots or sliding controls (such as volume/balance/etc on this boom box) is it will leave an oil residue which can do funky things to pots in the long run. Pots and sliding switches have a surface that little "feelers" move across and change the resistance or other factors in the circuit. That's how a volume control works in a basic sense.

Anyway, for years the volume control slider on that box had a dead spot. It would drive me crazy trying to get the volume right without hitting the dead spot which would kill it or cause static. Finaly wasted a few seconds out of my life to pick up a can of WD40 and spray it into that slider. Problem gone. Always amazes me how I'll avoid something and let it bother me for years when it only takes a minute or two to fix. :biggrin:

Almost forgot- Be careful with getting any spray on the face plate or plastic. Some contact cleaners will melt plastic, so don't fire hose a whole bunch of that stuff into the inside of the switch/pot either in case it drips into the box.
 
I do not think that would be an issue either, however you can take the coil off the rod and try a test, Also if you have access to a different coil plug in a different one......Try a dealer or club in your area....process of elimination.....

Dave
 
Good advise above, also if you do hipmount it is a must to have those little protection booties.........

Dave
 
jsparkyii said:
Thanks Dave, I've done all those things you speak of and it still does the choppy, erratic threshold sound or no sound at all. It worked fine until today when I turned it on. The only thing I can think of is that I painted the aluminum shaft yesterday, but I just don't think that has anything to do with it.

You didn't get any paint on the coil connector or switches/etc did you? See above message. Even the vapors from paint will settle on things and cause a residue that needs to be cleaned off. Check your coil connectors and I'd try cleaning those switches/pots if the box was even sitting nearby. Without resorting to cleaning things some times you can clean the surface of a pot or switch just by moving it back and fourth for a while. Also, some paint colors have metalic components (such as silver paint....some have aluminum in them) so make sure you didn't get it on the lower shaft or the coil.

I learned that lesson with an aerial video plane I built a few years back. I painted the body silver and found the the video transmission kept dropping out on me. Turned out the silver paint was chock full of aluminum and was reflecting the video TX signal off the top of the plane's body and out into space.
 
Many good ideas, but first thing I would do is disconnect the coil from the control box and turn it on. Now if it still does it you know it has to be in the control box, but if quiet it would have to be somewhere between the connector and the coil. If you are using a meter or a Sun Ray S-1 probe you can bypass them too to see if that makes any difference. It all comes down with elimination of one thing until you get to where the problem is.
If it seems to be a problem at the control box I would check where the coil cable connects to see if it has a bad connection, also make sure the battery is charged or new alkalines are in the alkaline pack.

I had one traded in that sounds similar and it wound up being the connector on the control box where the cable connects as it has some corrosion and didn't make a good contact. One other one was the switch on the S-1 probe as it had got dirt in it and gave me all kinds of problems when switched to coil, but to probe it was fine.
 
Another thing to remember. We learned in HVAC school that 90% of all problems are electrical, and probably most of the electrical problems are not due to a failed component but rather a loose or dirty connection. Most common of all would be a loose or badly crimped connector. In fact, first repair I did fresh out of school was my neighbor's compressor for the condensor wasn't coming on. Sure enough, one of the crimp connectors was very loose and you could even see the black carbon on it from too much resistance, causing heat. Always remember that when working on anything. Chances are it's a connector, loose solder connection or some other simple electrical short.
 
Rick,

Just did that and it still makes a slight choppy noise although not as bad. The thing is, with no coil connected and the threshold at the blue dot it will sound then slowly fade out to quiet. I then turn it to about the 3 o'clock position and the sound comes back then fades away again. Only at full blast does it stay on and then become a solid threshold sound.
 
Also, just wanted to mention that I tried it with a different coil and it did the same thing. I've cleaned the switches and pots and still same thing.
 
Chances are one of the pots is dirty, even if it isn't the threshold. Sensitivity or volume might be lagging out on you. To clean them properly you'd need to open the box and access the backs of the pots where you should be able to get spray inside them better. Move them around as soon as you spray it in. Don't use anything that will leave a residu and be careful cause some electrical cleaners will melt plastic if dripping on the box or something.

Really, to properly clean a pot you need to take it apart. Often they have a C clip on the back of the pot shaft that you have to remove and then it will come apart. Once in there I'd clean the pot surface with rubbing alchohol if you don't have any contact cleaner. You want to rub the pot with a Que Tip to really clean it, but then make sure you didn't leave any lint on the thing. Some people will use plain white paper as a mild form of sand paper by rubbing it dry over the pot surface, then spray and clean it with your cleaner.

If you know how to use a multimeter you can hitch it up to the pot and move the pot around and see if the change is consistent and smooth. If you start seeing large jumps or dead spots with the meter you can be sure the pot is either dirty or bad.
 
Oher than whats been mentioned I Would also try it outside, maybee if your indoors there is some real bad interfearence from other electrical apliances close by
 
John, everyone so far has had great ideas, but no one has suggested that you may have low battery output. Check inside the battery box for corrosion and loose connections, and a bad battery or batteries. Just my 2c worth. GH, Don
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, but I've done all of the above. Only thing I can think of is to let Minelab have a go at it.

Thanks again everybody
 
With the faiding in and out you describe as you adjust it that sounds more and more to me like a dirty or bad pot. I've experienced that with say volume controls on radios. It'll produce static, go dead, or once you think you've got it set the volume will slowly drift away.
 
Critter, Talked with the Minelab tech today. He got a bit technical but I believe a bad pot is what he said is the problem. Said he could fix it on the cheap so I sent it off today.
 
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