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Greg's big Egyptian Adventure, Part 1

Greg (E.Tn)

Well-known member
Summation:

Went on a dive trip to the Red Sea, via a short stop in Cairo, Egypt, the pyramids/sphinx, El Khalil Bazaar, and the Cairo Museum.

Day 1: 9.5 hour flight from New York to Cairo, bus trip to the hotel--drove past some pretty horrendous poverty areas to arrive at a plush hotel w/ a view of the Great Pyramid from the room. Inside the hotel proper was a 5 star restaurant, pool w/ swim up bar and waterfall, and virtually all the amenities. Outside of the hotel compound were people riding mules, horses, donkeys, and bumper to bumper traffic. 23 million inhabitants in Cairo alone w/ jobs only for about a tenth of that..........I won't go into the details of what results in this scenario where there's little or no garbage pickup or sanitation, but you can probably imagine--it wasn't pretty.

Oh yeah--tipping is extremely encouraged in Egypt..............more on that later.

Day 2: Impressive guided tour of the Pyramids and Great Sphinx. Local vendors everywhere using all kinds of high pressure sales tactics to the point of almost being belligerent, provoking some anger, until I reminded myself that they are just trying to put food on their table to feed wife and kids. BUT, the tactics were creative; if all else failed, a vendor would offer you a gift and play on your courtesy to not turn it down, ask personal questions about you and your family in an attempt to establish a friendly bond, then before bidding you goodbye, "ask" for a slight monetary gift in return. Another tactic was to encourage you to take a photograph of a camel or cameldriver or what have you, then after you take the photo, they would demand payment.

It was something I wasn't prepared for at such an extreme, because they were everywhere around the pyramids, almost constantly plying you with items for sale, and I never got to the point of being actually rude, but some I just walked away from. Then later, I felt bad after I got to thinking about the economical situation there, and realized that they had to do that to put food on the table..............

Flight to Hurgada, on the Red Sea. Get on the boat, Emperor Superior, dive briefing from Divemaster Sonia Goggels, a Swiss lady who speaks at least six languages. She was probably the best divemaster I've ever had the pleasure to be around. Warm, personable, friendly, with some neat animated mannerisms thrown in to make herself understood when briefing a group of 21 divers who speak three or more different languages..........

Day 3-8: Dive, Dive, Dive--"The Brothers", Ras Muhammad, SS Thistlegorm, and other sites that escape me right now. Saw my first Lionfish outside of an aquarium, not to mention first Oceanic Whitetip Shark, first Whale Shark, two Octopii, and about a dozen large Moray eels. Visibility was +100 feet.

Food on board: excellent, catering to all types of diets including Kosher and Vegetarian.

Crew and Staff: all Egyptian, all GREAT people, who are warm, friendly, humorous, and like westerners, and WANT us to like them, too. One of the crew members, Sameh, told me it was his dream to go snow skiing in the US one day. I told him I would accomodate him any way I could, if he could make it to the states. He said he would love to come to the states, but unfortunately 9/11 changed a lot of things, for Egypt as well as America.

Weather: perfect.

Divers: 15 Americans, 1 Canadian, 2 Dutch, 1 German, 2 Russian. All good people, but I'm afraid to say they might have gotten a little culture shock--not from the Egyptians, but from 15 American rednecks (myself included) in one place at one time.

Day 9: Back to Cairo and the Cairo Museum, then the Bazaar. No cameras allowed inside the Museum. It was a two hour tour in a setting where about a half a day at least was needed. Then the Bazaar.............

Whew. What an experience. Alleyways within alleyways filled with vendors, shops, selling mostly tourist stuff, cheap items, and they use every trick of the book imaginable to get every last dime you had in your wallet. But always friendly, and respectful. It was hard not to just wave the vendors off, and sometimes that's what you had to do, but the best thing to do was to just be patient, view their wares, then kindly inform them they didn't have anything you were looking for.

Another vacationer and I were escorted into a small shop where a vendor was selling artwork: handpainted images placed on handmade Papyrus just like the ancient Egyptians did (or at least that's what we were told). We were asked to sit down and accept a cup of Hibiscus tea, which we did, then asked to go through a collection of artwork and pick out anything we liked. Then the bargaining began................

The items were priced about ten times what they were worth, and they expected quite a bit of haggling. It took me awhile, but I finally learned that haggling was expected and welcomed, because I bought a $350 piece of artwork for about $80 bucks and I'm sure they made a ton of money off me at that, so I guess both I and the seller came out happy.

As far as incidents, none were bad. There was a lot of graffitti on the walls, apparently related to the recent ousting of Mubarak, and we saw the burnt out remains of his headquarters, but it looked as if things were at least TRYING to get back to normal.

I saw Egyptians dressed in Western attire, some wearing burgkas, some wearing more traditional Middle Eastern dress, and some women with their faces completely covered. But it seemed that the dress was more preferential than forced; meaning that there was no discernible groupings of people by dress, except around the Mosques. And there were about a thousand of those........

Egypt is about 80% Muslim, 20% Christian, with about a 1000 jews. Our guide informed us that religion wasn't mandated by the government or any particular entity, but that it was personal preference, and considered a personal choice.

Lastly, the traffic: I have to laugh about this one, but I can safely say that if you can drive in Cairo, you can drive anywhere in the world, and probably be a race car driver as well. We were driving on a six lane highway (3 lanes going in both directions) and in Cairo, those broken white lines diving the lanes all going on the same direction mean absolutely NOTHING. Constant horn blowing as cars passed with literally inches to spare, forced merging, and there's no "slow drivers keep right" rule in Cairo. I'd say that the most often repaired portion of an automobile in Cairo is the horn, they use it so much.

Matter of fact, I might go over there one day and set up a car horn repair business. I could probably make a small fortune. :drinking:

Oh yeah, one more thing: one the plane ride back to NYC, there were a LOT of Egyptians on the plane, wearing a variety of dress from western to conservative Middle Eastern including full face cover for the women. And apparently, Egyptians like to travel with their little kids on airplanes, because there were more squalling kids on that plane than you could shake a stick at----------no sleep to be had for the weary. And, it seemed that ALL the children I saw over there were beautiful and handsome kids. I saw some beautiful women over there too, and I will contend that their flight attendants have ours beat all to HECK in the beauty department. :drinking:

But I saw a LOT of love that the parents had for their children. I saw one father with his son, about 4 years old, who was sitting just up from me, and the little tyke was really sleepy when they served breakfast on the plane. He couldn't hold his eyes open, so he slouched over onto his dad and laid his head down on his dad's left arm.

Rather than disturb his son's rest, the father unpackaged and ate the entire meal with one hand............

All in all it was a fantastic trip, one I will probably do again, mostly for the diving. There weren't really any negative experiences, and the positives were fantastic.

Once I get my photos processed, I'll try to post a few here.
 
Were the Pyramids and Sphinx as large in person as they are in movies and pictures we see here in the United States? Was the Cairo Museum worth seeing, well maintained and good exhibits? Did you encounter any incidents where the people indicated that they did not like the United States? I have always been interested in Egypt and would love to visit there one of these days. Did Cairo have any parks, many trees or was it like being in the desert? I loved reading your story, look forward to seeing the pictures and hearing more! Thanks for sharing. Kelley (Texas) :)
 
Yes, Fred, the Pyramids and Sphinx were massive. The guide maintained that they were built without slave labor, but I don't see how that was possible in the amount of time they claimed it took the pyramids to be built, approximately 30 years. They claim to have found the grave sites of the builders, which totalled around 200 or so people, so I am not sure if those graves represented the total people associated with actually carrying the massive stones to the sites, or merely the engineers, surveyors, and supervisors of the building.

It happened around 5 thousand years ago, so I don't know if anyone knows for sure.

I don't think aliens from outer space were involved, as some do. :drinking:


The Cairo Museum was very impressive, but it was old, and the display was old, but it covered a period from the firsty Dynasty of the Egyptian Pharoahs all the way through Roman times, so I suppose it was very complete in its coverage of the total Egyptian period. It was well maintained, but as I indicated, the exhibit was very old, and, in my opinion, could stand some modernization, but I guess with all things being considered, Egypt has more pressing issues to deal with right now.

As far as issues where the local people exhibited anti-American sentiments, well, I didn't see any such things. The ones I met and dealt with were very friendly, warm people, and showed as much respect as they received. I think the common denominator the world over is "respect."

I exchanged this word with one of the Egyptian crewmembers on board the dive boat. I asked him to tell me how to pronounce the word "respect" in Egyptian, then looked into his eyes as I repeated it to him. I believe he fully understood and appreciated the meaning I was trying to convey to him.

Fred, in many of my travels to foreign countries, I have seen Americans and Europeans treat people of smaller countries as "lesser" beings, so to speak, and I for one believe that we are all God's children, whatever our belief systems be, and in the end, all people are equal in the eyes of the Lord. In many of the countries I have visited, their poor are far, far poorer than our so-called "lower class," but at the same time still maintain their dignity, and I respect them far more than I respect our own welfare class, at least for the most part.

There wasn't much in the way of lush gardens, trees, and such where I was in Cairo. Yes, there were a few areas maintained by landscapers and such, but for the most part, it was high rise apartment buildings, streets, sand, and limestone. We were told that the vast majority of Egypt's population was centered around the Nile River, from Luxour, in the south, up through Cairo, and Alexandria. Apparently, Egypt still has Bedouin people who live in the desert, as well as the city of Cairo.

Hurghada, on the Red Sea, was about the nicest place I saw, as it was a resort town, and had some really impressive hotels, resorts, and the like, with a city area the was situated for miles along the coast, and most of it supported the tourist trade. The city proper had many, many shops and vendor plying their wares, and the most interesting ones, at least to me, were the ones that sold spices, teas, and perfumes. You could buy various spices by the gram, ounce, or pound.

One of the most impressive things I saw was in the hotel restaurant where we stayed for the last day. It was in downtown Cairo, and had security guards all over the place. I suppose it was a "5 star" hotel. We got a complimentary (free) breakfast the morning we left, and the options were impressive--full pastry bar, juice bar, various cheeses, eggs made to order, and the most amazing part was the honey.

It wasn't in a jar, bowl, or even a cup...........

It was straight from the comb............they actually had a honey comb IN the restaurant. :shocked: I've never seen the like.

Fred, my basic assessment of the Egyptian people is that they are pretty much like us. Language barriers aside, I think people are basically the same all over the world.
 
Like to get there myself one day. A few of our friends have and all were really impressed. Nice post.. George-CT
 
And your descriptions make it seem as though I could have been there..

Did you get around Cairo via Taxi... or did you rent a vehicle.

So many questions... Food, water (most important), evenings out.. was there any `so called danger`...let`s face it .. you and the group were predominantly westerners.., and let us not forget the dives... did you take any underwater photos

Take case bud

Calm seas

Micheal
 
Thanks Mikie.

To answer your questions, our group traveled mostly as a group via tour bus. We had a security guard assigned, though I am not certain we needed it, and the Egyptian Tourist Police were everywhere. During our visits and walks around the Pyramids, El Khalil Bazaar in Cairo, and the merchant area in Hurghada on the Red Sea, I never felt any danger, but keep in mind that we never really left the "tourist" areas.

There was a lot of graffitti painted everywhere in Cairo, but of course I couldn't read it, but some of it was images of AK-47 weapons, and one I saw was of the AK-47 with a red circle and slash covering it, which conveyed the "anti" message. Mubarak's office government building had been torched; it was right next to the Cairo Museum, and was something that obviously can't be ignored, given the tons of visitors to the museum every day.

In Cairo, the Egyptian people pretty much went about their daily lives ignoring tourists, except for the vendors and street merchants which worked you pretty doggone hard if you had the bad luck to attract one's attention.

As we were on the dive boat for the majority of the trip, the only "evenings out" were when we returned to Hurghada when the diving was over. We went into Hurghada proper for some shopping, and lots of people were out socializing in the street, as most come out on the streets at dusk when it's cooler, and stay out late at night. All of the local people seemed to be in pretty good spirits in Hurghada, and often you'd see Egyptians in western dress walking arm in arm with Egyptians in full Burkas and head scarves with only their eyes visible.

We also went out walking one evening outside the hotel in Cairo, before we flew back out the next day. No problems--lots of people were out, and most seemed cordial and friendly. I got "ambushed" by a kid who spoke good English, and he came up and introduced himself, saying that he had been to Michigan once or twice, and wanted to know where we were going. I told him we were going to the Hard Rock Cafe, and he informed me it was closed. He then asked me to promise to come to his "art gallery" to view his artwork, so that maybe I could recommend it to other Americans. So I told him I would if I had time.

Well, walking back from the HR Cafe (he was right--it was closed) I ran into him again, and let him take me and a buddy to his shop, where we were full court pressed into buying a handpainted piece of artwork on Papyrus. We had to go through the whole ritual of socializing, barganing, haggling, until the merchant was satisfied he had made a sale. I looked around and noticed that the kid had left to go look for more victims, and sure enough, he came back with another one of our group, who got the same treatment we did---and spent a HECK of a lot money, I might add........

Water: don't drink it unless it is bottled. Food was excellent, mostly western dishes, but also Coucous, various types of rice, breads, pastries, and chicken, beef, and turkey.

UW photos--no I didn't take any, but others did and I will have access to them. I'll post some when I get them. Problem is now, I'm going to have to get one, and if I do, I'll have to get a good one, and they ain't cheap. Just the housing for the camera I've got is about $1600, and that's not counting the strobes necessary for UW lighting--about $800 each. So, $3200 to get my Digital SLR set to take in the water safely.

And another decision is still photo vs video. There are other cameras that will shoot both, but again, there's the money factor if you want good, quality equipment able to take good photos.

Hope this answers your questions, Mikie. I'll post some pics when I get them ready.

Sunny Skies
 
n/t
 
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