Mike Hillis
Well-known member
It was liking riding a bicycle, I picked it right up.
I took it to school sand to get re-acquainted, one where I had pretty well cleaned before so it was pretty much constant swinging. I had no problems with arm and shoulder fatigue. Had it setup at 610 which kept me above the pipes that are buried here but still got plenty of depth. Had no trouble id'ing iron or coins. The shallower nickels hit where they were supposed to, and the deeper ones jumped up into round tab like I expected them to with a -10 threshold.
In this sand the deeper zincs would often throw a -36 number out into a 4way check. So I started watching the negative numbers. Seemed most of the time real iron was in the -20 and smaller while the larger negatives could be other stuff. Some of the -30ish numbers that jumped a lot turned out to be small decaying foil pieces down around the 5" range. I plan to spend some time mapping the negative range in the air then testing it in the ground. Seems like setting it -99 is probably not necessary to get real iron rejection.
Nothing special found, just a little clad which consisted of more nickels than dimes. Found all the buttons to work better on this model than the last one I owned. Pinpointing worked fine just as I remembered. Nice little reunion. Best thing was my arm and shoulder were still good to go for another 2-1/2 hours if I'd had to time to stay out.
Looking forward to spending alot of years with this unit.
Happy Coin$triking
I took it to school sand to get re-acquainted, one where I had pretty well cleaned before so it was pretty much constant swinging. I had no problems with arm and shoulder fatigue. Had it setup at 610 which kept me above the pipes that are buried here but still got plenty of depth. Had no trouble id'ing iron or coins. The shallower nickels hit where they were supposed to, and the deeper ones jumped up into round tab like I expected them to with a -10 threshold.
In this sand the deeper zincs would often throw a -36 number out into a 4way check. So I started watching the negative numbers. Seemed most of the time real iron was in the -20 and smaller while the larger negatives could be other stuff. Some of the -30ish numbers that jumped a lot turned out to be small decaying foil pieces down around the 5" range. I plan to spend some time mapping the negative range in the air then testing it in the ground. Seems like setting it -99 is probably not necessary to get real iron rejection.
Nothing special found, just a little clad which consisted of more nickels than dimes. Found all the buttons to work better on this model than the last one I owned. Pinpointing worked fine just as I remembered. Nice little reunion. Best thing was my arm and shoulder were still good to go for another 2-1/2 hours if I'd had to time to stay out.
Looking forward to spending alot of years with this unit.
Happy Coin$triking
But, I've never attempted to list everything side by side. So, I'll try to go right down the line with some things I like about both (sure I'll forget a few obvious things). Mike & anyone else like Brad, who's used both, feel free too add whatever I miss...(or said wrong since I don't own a T2 yet). 
