tmattei said:
So far I really like the C$.I have been using it for a few months.There is def a learning curve compared to "point and shoot" CZ's. I have been using the small 6" coil for the past few weeks,and am going to leave it on unless I relic/beach hunt. I get far fewer false signals from iron washers,steel bottlecaps,etc.Most places I detect are small/medium in size,so ground coverage isn't an issue.I tend to run with sens at 4 or 5,threshold from neg 10 to neg 25.These settings are very tame and work well for me.I dug at a soccer field yesterday,and was getting burned out on zincolins.I notched them out,along with foil and had a very nice hunt.My nickel take was better,because I didn't have to second guess myself on foil signals.The pinpoint will also take some getting used to.The"higher"the number in pinpoint, the "shallower" the target.It's also easy to detune to the point of loosing your target.On pinpoint signals of 86 or higher,along with my Garrett propointer I was recovering shallow targets hidden under manicured grass at record speed with no turf damage.This machine can do a lot.It has salt mode for the beach,It i.d.'s targets in all metal mode for relic hunting,it's great on coins, stores custom programs,and has backlight for night hunts.Yeah it has a learning curve,but it's worth it.
I never used the number system for pinpointing, I just watch the coil and ground as I pass over the target and I eyeball center of the target and detune to reduce center. Now what I did do was I somewhat converted the pinpoint numbers and used them for coin target depth.
I mark the target with a gulf tee, then raise the coin about waist high, hold down the pinpoint button and lower the center of the coil to center of the gulf tee and read the pinpoint numbers.
Now the conversion was not exact but I used a US nickel and stacked up some wood at difference thicknesses between the coil and the coin and noted the different reading as the inches increased.
It went something like this, (I'm not looking at the real worked out numbers right now, but its easy to work out your own numbers)
95-99 =surface
90-95 = 2"
80-90 =3"
ect...
Then I printed it out on paper and used some carton tape and taped it to the top of the control housing.
I used a nickel because in size it falls between pennies/dimes and quarters.
Now, lets say you get a reading of 28 and a pinpoint reading of 95 if its not within the first inch or so of dirt, ITS NOT A PENNY/DIME! its almost always either a crushed pop can or at lest the top or bottom of a pop can at 4" to 5" Don't waist your time digging for it unless you just want to get it out of the way.
There are a couple of ways of looking at the C$,
Complicated,
Or Simple,
In the beginning I took the complicated approach! that was a bad idea ( I think most start out this way)
Then when I found out that all my thought to be complicated problems was a bad coil, the C$ got real simple, it just takes a little time for it to click.
If I'm hunting an area where the coins are old and deep I ran it as hot as I can and it still stable, (8" coil)
Sensitivity =9
Threshold = -10 -5
Full Iron disc,
Notch out Foil.
If your surface hunting ball fields to say 5" then you could run it with these settings,
Sensitivity =5
Threshold = -25 or even -35
I never used the memory banks just because it stores the last used settings, so seeing how I hunt in the same general areas and the only times I need to just the sensitivity and threshold is for interference.
One warning about the C$ is the volume control and headphones, its LOUD at full volume, which is the main reason I bought headphones with a volume limiter.
Mark
Mark
