Gold jewelry hunting...What do you look for in a TID detector....

[Jackpine Savage]

For wading or beach hunting TID is not neccessary as you are, or should be digging it all, but for park or ballfield hunting what features appeal to you?

I want the most resolution possible in the foil to zinc range. The more numbers the better. Round stuff like rings and coins tend to lock on and odd shaped trash bounces or reads differently from a differant angle on detectors with good resolution in the "gold" range.

No method of discrimination will eliminate all trash and find only gold. Sure it would be nice to be able to selectively notch some aluminum like a certain type of pesky tab found at a given site, but why do it when the ID resolution lets you visually notch it? Personally I would rather learn the site and the ID's of particular trash items and simply ignore those rather than notch out a segment. Digging the solid locks certainly won't eliminate all trash and it will miss some gold but will eliminate a ton of trash. Remember one thing folks, in trashy areas use of notches will only slow you down due to targets that fall at or near the upper or lower edge of the notch zone giving non repeatable hits that take time to investigate to see them for what they are. I'd rather hear the target clearly and and see it for what it is.

Tom

 

[Mike Hillis]

Good Post Jackpine,

I basically agree with you. I don't do any beach hunting, except for the occasional forays to a lake. Most of my jewelry hunting in on park and school property.

I've been reflecting, and I basically have two different styles of hunting. I'll call them 'Search' and 'Seek' styles. The 'Search' style is where I am basically just swinging a coil, looking for anything and everything. The 'Seek' style is where I have researched, or perhaps came across an area during searching, or just through experience, have identified an area to hunt for a particular object. I know its down there I just got to find it.

I'm still learning but this is where I am at.

For jewelry, I prefer the 'Seek' style. I have the area defined and I know its down there.

First, I need tone id. I don't want to stare at a meter for every target. I want to hear what conductive range the target falls in before I ever bother with looking at the meter.

Second, like you, I want the largest low conductive range possible, which means a higher frequency detector. You are right about rings hitting more solid than trash. Its because rings concentrate the eddie currents in their circumference. While they don't present a large surface area, the very fact that they are round makes up for it.

Third, I want very good target separation, either from the coil selection or from the machine itself or both.

Forth, I want an averaging function. I want to be able to pin down to a specific number. No bouncing, not a range. Just one number.

Fifth, I want a depth reading. I want to be able to see alum by its number, then confirm it as alum by its depth in the ground.

Lastly, I want to be able to notch or perform selective discrimination so that I can search for a specific range when I want to.

Happy Coin$triking

 

[Bugar In. USA]

What the Excel and C$ do best, but mainly solid repeatables, regardless of how low the number , long as it's the+ side, in the soil i hunt, seems like most all the trash will break up or crackle, i listen to the tone and then the ID #, is what works for me

 

[Jackpine Savage]

Then I'm <b>SEEKING</b> Wading for jewelry to me is the most relaxing and rewarding metal detecting I do.

Tom

 

[Jackpine Savage]

and saved a lot of typing. Short and sweet and to the point Bugar!

HH Tom