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Garrett Pro Pointer increased depth trick.
- Thread starter Coyote65
- Start date
It's a technique to super tune the Pro-Pointer some of us have used since 2008, especially when Gold prospecting and locating tiny bits.
Nice to see the idea caught on and someone made a video.
There have been some negative responses to earlier post describing the technique, especially by those with attitude and lack of understanding
to why and where this extra sensitivity can be utilised.
The fine gold in the tube is detectable with the Pro-Pointer but only after super tuning.
Nice to see the idea caught on and someone made a video.
There have been some negative responses to earlier post describing the technique, especially by those with attitude and lack of understanding
to why and where this extra sensitivity can be utilised.
The fine gold in the tube is detectable with the Pro-Pointer but only after super tuning.
silversmith
New member
I've been told, super tuning has to be re-dune, every time you turn on the Pro-pointer 'cause the detector returns it's self to the new perimeters it see's. I believe I've seen this in air tests, but haven't experimented with it in the field. Have any of you encountered this? Thanks. 
Critterhunter
New member
Yea, it's got to be done each time you turn it on. I only super tune if the pinpointer can't see the target which is rare, but if it's real deep I'll super tune the ProPointer so I don't have to get back up to re-check the target location. Really saves you from having to do that. It's great. I just have a washer tied to a string that is ziptied to the back end of the probe. When I want to super or de-tune the Probe I just grab the washer/string with my thumb and bring it up towards the tip.
One thing to do after super-tuning is to first place the probe tip onto the ground where no metal should be present to make sure it isn't falsing on the ground minerals. If it is then back the washer off a hair more.
Even if not tuning it sometimes in really bad ground minerals the unit might false on the ground (very rare compared to other pinpointers). If that's the case then touch the tip to the ground (where no metal is present) and then turn it on. The auto sensitivity adjust should then adjust it to not false on the ground signal.
One thing to do after super-tuning is to first place the probe tip onto the ground where no metal should be present to make sure it isn't falsing on the ground minerals. If it is then back the washer off a hair more.
Even if not tuning it sometimes in really bad ground minerals the unit might false on the ground (very rare compared to other pinpointers). If that's the case then touch the tip to the ground (where no metal is present) and then turn it on. The auto sensitivity adjust should then adjust it to not false on the ground signal.
Mike in Fl
New member
Great video. I am sure every Garrett owner will appreciate it. I had heard about the ability to gain depth, but had never totally understood it. The video leaves no doubt, about how to do it. Thank you very much. I am sure all who read it will want to thank you.
reltolbert
New member
This trick will also work with the Bounty Hunter Pin Pointer, but too a much lesser degree.
Question, "Has anyone explored modding the Pro Pointer with some kind of fixed, fixture which would encase a nickel for sliding up and down?" With a little engineuity, it could be made to better control the coin than with just the thumb alone. I understand that the coin position has to be retracted in general use, but it is a bit clumsy to handle the PP while trying to maintain the decided position after the slide forward and back.
I'll tell you, it's s neat trick for sure. What Garrett really needs to do though, is make a model with more depth. Surely a designer should be able to gather the same increase with electronics. All the Pro Pointer needs to blow away the Pistol, is barely another big inch of depth. It can't be that hard to do. martin
I'll tell you, it's s neat trick for sure. What Garrett really needs to do though, is make a model with more depth. Surely a designer should be able to gather the same increase with electronics. All the Pro Pointer needs to blow away the Pistol, is barely another big inch of depth. It can't be that hard to do. martin
silversmith
New member
So, first I taped off the noise hole (just too loud) but tape can be removed while detecting loud areas. Second, I wrapped some more black tape around the handle and tossed a "Rosie" Appropo? under the battery cover. When I need the extra sensitivity, I just find the "sweet spot" with the Rosie and tape there. Or, sometimes I just hold the Rosie with my finger, 'cause remember, every time you turn the unit off, you gotta start all over when you turn it back on. I use my Garrett often, but too be truthful, a plastic scoop is hard to beat. Just scoop the material and pass it over your detector coil. Hey, I like both. It works for me. I love my Propointer and use it often, but I'd prefer the scoop over any other pinpointer I ever owned, and there was quite a few. Have fun............
Ok, so I've been meaning to try the supertuning trick for a few weeks now and finally had the opportunity last night.
Per someone else's recommendations, I tied a string to a small washer and attached it to the propointer right around the 'magic spot'. Testing in my kitchen it worked great, added an extra 1 1/2" at least. So I put the propointer in my pouch and out I went....
First impression, it takes a little while to get the dexterity down. I had to hold the washer under my thumb and slide it down to find the right spot. I tried this on at least 5 deep targets and it worked, however, my hand was started to cramp and I was starting to question...
So, I removed the string and washer and decided to just use a nickel that I had in my pocket. This method worked slightly better, I just slid the nickel until i got a beep and backed it off a little. However, still pretty uncomfortable and I had to press down on the nickel pretty hard to keep it from slipping.
My conclusion, maybe it's just my early onset arthritis, but I didn't enjoy this method.
I'll go back to what works and I love the propointer.
Per someone else's recommendations, I tied a string to a small washer and attached it to the propointer right around the 'magic spot'. Testing in my kitchen it worked great, added an extra 1 1/2" at least. So I put the propointer in my pouch and out I went....
First impression, it takes a little while to get the dexterity down. I had to hold the washer under my thumb and slide it down to find the right spot. I tried this on at least 5 deep targets and it worked, however, my hand was started to cramp and I was starting to question...
So, I removed the string and washer and decided to just use a nickel that I had in my pocket. This method worked slightly better, I just slid the nickel until i got a beep and backed it off a little. However, still pretty uncomfortable and I had to press down on the nickel pretty hard to keep it from slipping.
My conclusion, maybe it's just my early onset arthritis, but I didn't enjoy this method.
I'll go back to what works and I love the propointer.
Critterhunter
New member
Put a ring on your thumb and use that. Just remember to keep it away when turning it on. If you put it near the pin pointer when turning it on it will detune it and get less depth. I do that as well some times. It's handy to narrow down multiple targets to identify each separately in the hole. It's also useful to trace the outline of larger objects. Think it's a big can? Don't be so sure. De-tune the pinpointer and then trace it out. You might find out it's 2 or 3 half or silver dollars laying near each other, as I remember somebody saying they found Franklin silver halfs by doing that.
Thanks for the tip about the thumb ring, will definately try it. I went back out last night and dug a few crusty clad quarters right off the bat.
A few holes later and had an opportunity to use the super-tuner method and fished one of the quarters out of my pocket and slid into place and held it down with my thumb. Worked much better this time, I was able to get a deep signal in the bottom side of the hole that I would've missed and gave up on if I had been using the normal method. Turned out to be deep iron, but it was bouncing in the low 90's and I just needed to know for sure.
Believe it or not, the reason it worked so much better this time around for me is because I used a crusty coin instead of a new one. It didn't slip when I held it down with my thumb and was much easier to work with.
Just my 2 cents.....
Brad
A few holes later and had an opportunity to use the super-tuner method and fished one of the quarters out of my pocket and slid into place and held it down with my thumb. Worked much better this time, I was able to get a deep signal in the bottom side of the hole that I would've missed and gave up on if I had been using the normal method. Turned out to be deep iron, but it was bouncing in the low 90's and I just needed to know for sure.
Believe it or not, the reason it worked so much better this time around for me is because I used a crusty coin instead of a new one. It didn't slip when I held it down with my thumb and was much easier to work with.
Just my 2 cents.....
Brad
A month ago after I saw the video I made a little slider out of sheet metal and a small bent piece of metal to act as a holder (think a stick of chewing gum in the wrapper). I attached the holder to the side of the propointer with double sided carpet tape and duct tape. I roll each end of the slider with needle nose pliers so it doesn't come out of the holder and sand edges so it doesn't cut you.
To use slide the range extender forward until it beeps then slide back until it stops. It works very well and I often detect the target without even digging first. With mineralized ground sometimes I have to shut the Propointer off and restart after back the extender all the way back but it is a small price to pay for a much improved device.
To use slide the range extender forward until it beeps then slide back until it stops. It works very well and I often detect the target without even digging first. With mineralized ground sometimes I have to shut the Propointer off and restart after back the extender all the way back but it is a small price to pay for a much improved device.
Welwood470
Member
OK guys, here goes. I've never posted pics before, so bear with me. I used a piece of 1/2 inch
velcro (fuzzy part adhesive type) along side the PP from battery cap to a point just slightly below the power
swt. opposite side, then used the "hook" part of the tape to a dime and trimmed edges around dime.
When not in use it is stowed up near battery cap......for increased depth move dime down PP to it just
chirps, then back off just a hair and continue searching. Just remember to remove the dime to the stowed
position when you turn it off because when you turn it back on you will have effectively detuned it.
velcro (fuzzy part adhesive type) along side the PP from battery cap to a point just slightly below the power
swt. opposite side, then used the "hook" part of the tape to a dime and trimmed edges around dime.
When not in use it is stowed up near battery cap......for increased depth move dime down PP to it just
chirps, then back off just a hair and continue searching. Just remember to remove the dime to the stowed
position when you turn it off because when you turn it back on you will have effectively detuned it.
banditicey
New member
Thank You
just what I was asking about
Your information answered the questions
Happy Hunting
just what I was asking about
Your information answered the questions
Happy Hunting
MarkCZ
Well-known member
This trick I beieve will work with any pinpointer. Now this isn't FACT but it a conclusion that I have come to.
The idea is to put a small piece of metal close to, or just into the detecting field just short of setting off the pinpointer. What that does is when another piece of metal gets close to the field that piece acts like a much larger object to the unit.
Anyway, below is a video I did using this idea on a Harbor Freigt pinpointer. (I have sense then bought a Pro-pinpointer). This works very well on the HF one and if you pre-set the tuning control on the unit to about 75% you don't have to tune that control at all, you can tune it by sliding the ring or band up and down the probs shaft. There is NO tricks being done in my video!
Sense they video I have replaced the ring with a metal band, which lays flatter and stays in place better.
see the link below.
http://users.zoominternet.net/~markc/pinpointer.wmv
The idea is to put a small piece of metal close to, or just into the detecting field just short of setting off the pinpointer. What that does is when another piece of metal gets close to the field that piece acts like a much larger object to the unit.
Anyway, below is a video I did using this idea on a Harbor Freigt pinpointer. (I have sense then bought a Pro-pinpointer). This works very well on the HF one and if you pre-set the tuning control on the unit to about 75% you don't have to tune that control at all, you can tune it by sliding the ring or band up and down the probs shaft. There is NO tricks being done in my video!
Sense they video I have replaced the ring with a metal band, which lays flatter and stays in place better.
see the link below.
http://users.zoominternet.net/~markc/pinpointer.wmv
So, other than the pinpointer tuning being thrown off if you have the coin/ring in position when you turn on the unit, are there any other negatives? One person mentioned that at least one pinpointer has/had this feature, but it would seem like being able to almost double your range would be a huge deal and all manufacturers would be implementing a way of taking advantage.