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G2 SET UP

dani

New member
hello everyone, just got my brand new G2 and wanted to know more about the different ways of set up.

I am kind of lost in regards to the threshold function and how to actually operate with the right knob; disc/threshold?

Thank you in advance for any help that can be more clear and informative than the user manual.

Thank you
 
Dani --

Here's the deal -- you need to decide if you want to hunt in A.) discriminate mode (a slightly "shallower" mode, but you get digital readout of probable target ID (VDI), and it allows you to set a "tone break point," below which all metal detected will give a low "grunt" and above which you will get a higher, variable-pitch audio tone (called modulated VCO audio), or B.) if you want to hunt in all-metals mode (a deeper-seeking mode, but which does NOT allow you to set a "tone break," thus all metal targets will sound off in that VCO audio; you also don't get digital readout of VDI, but instead your digital readout will be "ground phase" in that mode (but you still have some ID information on that "dial" above the digital number -- a "range" of VDI numbers will show up on that top row of numbers when you find a metal target in the all-metals mode).

Now, once you decide which mode you want to use (I'd suggest the discriminate mode, to begin with), THEN you have decided what knobs will do what -- because that right-hand dial has different jobs in different modes.

So, if you want to start hunting, in discriminate mode, do this:

A: Turn the unit on, using the left knob; run it as far "clockwise" as you can without hearing the unit become "unstable" (lots of false tones). You want it SMOOTH, no tones. If you can run it (the sensitivity) all the way clockwise, up to 100, do so.
B: Run the detector over the ground, and find a "clean" spot with no metal in the ground.
C: Once you have found that clean spot, turn your right-hand knob to the 12:00 position, put your finger on the "GG" button and hold it, and then pump your coil up and down above the ground, from about a foot down to about an inch, and back up again, repeatedly, until the large number in the center of the screen (your ground phase) becomes stable, and "closely matches" the small number in the lower right corner (the ground phase number that your unit is using as the "ground balance" point). When the "big" number is pretty stable, and roughly matches the small number in the lower right corner, release the GG button. You are now ground balanced.
D: Now, turn that right hand button all the way back counterclockwise until it "clicks." When it clicks, you have exited all-metals mode, and entered disc. mode. THUS, you obviously cannot set a threshold in disc. mode. If you try to, and start to turn that knob clockwise, and un-click it, you have again entered all-metals mode (and thus, you can set a threshold level). Point is, you don't set a threshold in disc. mode on this machine. You just leave the right-hand knob all the way counter-clockwise, "clicked" into disc. mode.
E. Now, with the machine in disc. mode, and sensitivity (the left button) set as high as you can set it while keeping the machine "stable" with no EMI apparent (which would be "chatter" sounding on the machine), you can now use your arrow keys to set your disc. level. To begin with, I'd run your disc. level up to 40. On the "dial," you will see that once you do this, there will be "black marks" above 40, and "gray marks" from 40 down to zero. The "gray" zone (below 40 in this case) is the range of VDI numbers which will sound off in that low grunting that I mentioned; the "black" zone (above 40 in this case) is the range of VDI numbers that will give you that modulated VCO audio tone. If you decide to set your "tone break" ABOVE 40, you will see a "white" zone begin to appear. For targets that ID in THIS zone, you would hear NO sound. The white zone, if any, is always NO sound; the gray zone is always the low grunt sound, and the black zone is always that modulated VCO audio sound. It is adjustable to your liking. Setting it at 40 is a good place to start.

Now, with the machine set up in this way, iron targets (most of which read 40 or below on this machine -- the smaller the number, in most cases, the smaller the iron piece) will all "grunt" with the low tones; meanwhile, non-iron targets will sound off in the variable VCO audio tones. The digital VDI number will tell you what the machine thinks is under your coil. Numbers in the 40s are usually small pieces of aluminum or foil (and ladies gold rings, many gold bracelets, etc.); numbers in the 50s are often pull tabs, but also nickels and many types of gold jewelry; numbers in the 60s are often junk metal or gold rings; numbers in the 70s will be trash, some large gold rings, and zinc pennies; numbers in the 80s are where most coins will fall, along with a good bit of the silver jewelry; some coins may hit in the low 90s, along with large silver; higher in the 90s is usually rusty iron trash.

Using pinpoint is easy; when you locate a target, move to the side of the target, and press the "GG/Pin Point" button and hold it (make sure you are NOT on top of the target when you press the button), and then run the coil back over the target. Mark the spot on the ground with your eyes where the tone is "loudest;" then, keeping your eye on that spot, turn your body, and the coil, 90 degress, and run back and forth again across your initial spot. The place where the tone is highest is the spot where the target is (you made an "x" with your coil; the target is at the center of the "x" where the lines cross).

That's all there is to it. You are now ready to find stuff!! The only other thing is, you may want to repeat the "ground balance" procedure above periodically, as ground conditions will change as you move to different spots.

Hope this helps. You are now set up in a good beginner's mode...happy hunting!

Steve
 
Lots of good info here to read and share. Looks like these guys got you going. Holler if you need more help. Always people here willing to help out!
 
sgoss66 said:
Swagman --

I was never known for being "succinct!" :) Hopefully, that was semi-clear and not too confusing! People who know me, would quickly recognize all that wordiness, and just roll their eyes! :)

Steve
Steve----Sounds like you're getting that "mamma" (G2) down pretty good!----I thought it was pretty descriptive (and accurate). :)----------------Del
 
thank you everyone ... i will try and use all of teh above and let you know if there is anything else i need ... this forum is great and once again THANK YOU for your support for all the "new people"
 
Thank you sgoss66

I have tried all you mention above and it works prety well and now i feel more confident in what i do .... now can you help me with the ALL METAL Mode and how to work the threshold, +40 - 40, etc. I think this is the part I do not really get ...???



Thank you in advance for your help
 
Dani --

I will tell you up front that I don't use all-metals mode too much for most of the types of hunting that I do; having said that, here's what I can tell you about threshold...

Think of threshold as "squelch" on an old CB radio or walkie talkie. There is a certain amount of "background noise" ever present. The "squelch" would silence that background noise, but still allow the "good" transmissions (spoken words) to come through audibly.

Threshold is similar. It can be used to "squelch" the background electromagnetic chatter your machine receives, and yet still allow NON-background signals (i.e. your desired metal targets) to be heard audibly through the speaker/headphones. From this perspective, you would want to slowly turn up the threshold until you get a just barely audible tone (which is the background "noise.") If you set it TOO low, what you are doing is "limiting" or "squelching" the signal to the point that not only will the background electromagnetic chatter be inaudible, but small, deep, "whispering" targets might also be rendered inaudible. On the other hand, if you set the threshold TOO high, such that the "background" noise is TOO loud, those quiet "whispering" sounds from deep targets can be "overwhelmed" by the amplified background chatter -- again, causing you to miss the target. The point is, you want a quiet, but NOT inaudible, threshold. The threshold tone you hear is not going to be totally stable, especially in populated areas where electromagnetic background radiation abounds -- as the background electromagnetic radiation will cause variations in the threshold pitch and volume. But, the bottom line is, if you set it to as close to a "barely audible" level as you can, then any repeatable "variation" or "increase" in the tone, which is being heard "above," or "through," your threshold setting, could be a deep, and/or small, metal target. Obviously, for a larger or shallower target, it won't matter near as much, as that type of signal will overwhelm the threshold and will be heard clearly -- even if your threshold was set a bit too high or a bit too low. Trying to get such a precise threshold is most important if you are really wanting to hear the very small and/or very deep targets (such as would be the case in a gold prospecting application). For normal coin shooting or jewelry hunting, or even relic hunting, it's not quite as important to set your threshold perfectly. Just set it as close as you can to being a "low, quiet hum" and go from there.

I will also say that if your threshold is TOO jumpy/unstable (i.e. not "smooth" enough for you), you can also adjust your sensitivity downward a bit -- so that the machine will be "less sensitive" to very, very small amounts of (background) electromagnetic radiation. If you run your sensitivity from 100 down to, say, 80, you may find that your threshold tone is much more stable/much less "variable" in pitch and volume. NOW, you can adjust your threshold, again -- to where it is barely audible, but with the lower sensitivity setting, the threshold tone may prove to be a more "stable" or "non-varying" tone than it was with sensitivity set higher. My point is you can find some balance in there between sensitivity and threshold that will give you a threshold tone/hum that you prefer. Just remember -- adjusting sensitivity downward will obviously make your detector "less sensitive" to NOT ONLY weak background electromagnetic radiation, but also to the "weak" electromagnetic radiation returning to your coil produced by a small and/or deep metal target in the ground. You can run sensitivity fairly low, and a coin-sized object will still give you a good signal, even if located relatively deep. But you will begin losing "sensitivity" to small/deep/weak targets, obviously, as you lower sensitivity. This is all part of knowing your machine, knowing what you are hunting for, and maximizing the tuning of your machine for your particular style and preferences. This is a more advanced thing -- which takes more experience. For now, as a new user, if you are wanting to hunt in all-metals mode (which I will note is a bit more difficult for a beginner than disc. mode), then I'd say just find that level (using the threshold dial) where your threshold tone is barely audible, and go with it. It will serve you well, done in that way.

Hope that helps!

Steve
 
Thank you bunches for all the details ... honestly I personally think that you should write the G2 manuals ... in this way people will understand better.

Soon i am going on a trip to old Europe and that will be the place to really try my G2. There are lots of old Roman sites where I hope to get some nice coins!!!

If you have the time i have few more questions on the threshold function.

# as far as i understand this function is strictly Audio ONLY, based on the personal knowledge of your detector you can see if you have a hit or not?

# besides learning to "hear" and discriminate the good sounds and the bad once, is there any number on the display that we can use in All metal Mode?

# in regards to the scale from 0 to 100 do we use it or not?

# what are the numbers we see on the display and what are they showing us?[/b]

Thank you again for your time and i promise soon as i have any luck with the g2 to post my impressions and share them with everyone.

Thank you
 
dani --

I am glad to help, and glad you feel that what I posted may have helped you understand a bit better how your machine works.

I think you will have fun with it, and Europe certainly has LOTS of old stuff in the ground!

I will try to answer your four questions...

1.) I'm not sure what you are asking about threshold being "audio only." If you are asking if the threshold simply refers to that audible "hum," and if adjusting the threshold knob simply increases or decreases the volume of that hum, then yes, that's basically what threshold does. Yes, knowing your detector and how it behaves will help you discern when it is just electromagnetic interference making your threshold increase or decrease in volume or tone, and in contrast, when it might instead be a small, deep target. For instance, if you have a fairly stable threshold, and you are swinging your coil, and you hear a little "blip" in the threshold hum, it COULD be a small pulse of background radiation (referred to as EMI, or ElectroMagnetic Interference), OR it could be a small and/or deep target. By running your coil back and forth over that spot, and seeing if that "blip" is repeatable, is how you can discern whether the tone you heard was a sporadic "blip" of EMI, or instead may have been an indication of a metal target. But remember, this "splitting of hairs" and "listening for the subtle changes in threshold" is only necessary for VERY small or VERY deep targets. Most larger, coin- or jewelry- or relic-sized targets will give you a very CLEAR response -- MUCH louder than your threshold; there will be NO question. These subtle little "blips" we are talking about are difficult to work with for a new detectorist; focusing on the clearer, unquestionable responses from your machine will be a better way for you to learn your machine. I might suggest putting some metal targets on the ground and running your coil over them, to get used to how the detector responds; you might also, before your trip, go to your local playground, where shallow coins should be plentiful, and get used to hearing, and digging, targets in the ground. Don't make this too difficult at first; it takes some time and experience to find and dig those more "complex" targets. Focus on the simpler, louder, clearer, repeatable signals at first.

2.) Yes, "hearing" signal/tone variations will, over time, become a VERY important piece of information for you, in determining what your machine is "seeing" underground. However, the only way to TEACH your brain and ears what those signals mean is to find a target, LISTEN to the machine's response, THINK about what it might be (size, depth, type of metal), and then DIG IT, to find out. At first, you may have NO CLUE how to "guess" what the machine sees, until you dig it. Over time, though, you will learn -- but ONLY after hearing, and digging, many many metal targets. PRACTICE! As for "numbers on the display," they can help, but please understand they are NOT foolproof. A quarter may give you an "86" number, if it sits at 4" deep and there are no other metal targets around. A nail may give you a "20." Now, put the nail and the coin on top of each other, and run the machine over them, and it may sound like ONE target to your machine, and give you a "75" number. Reason? The machine is "blending" the two targets and thus coming up with a number that is NOT representative of EITHER the quarter OR the nail, but something else. See what I mean? This is just ONE way the numbers can fool you. Another way? A smashed aluminum screw cap from a wine bottle may give you an "86" number -- just like a quarter. A coin laying on its side, instead of flat, may give you an ID number much lower than it otherwise would. Do you see what I'm saying? The numbers can help, but they are NOT foolproof. If you went out on a given day and said "I'm going to dig every 86 signal I get," you would dig some quarters, you would dig some smashed screw caps, you would probably dig a few bent rusty nails, you may dig a brass washer, possibly a "tarp grommet," possibly a "parking token" or two. Further, you would MISS many quarters -- quarters that were on edge and thus mis-ID'd, quarters that were next to nails or other trash and thus mis-ID'd, etc. My point? Numbers are a guide, but EXPERIENCE will help you dig less trash, and more good targets, as you get more used to your detector.

As for "numbers on the display," this is part of why I said it is easier for a beginner to use disc. mode. Because, in disc. mode, that big number in the middle of your screen is the VDI number, or the "machine's attempt at telling you what kind of target it is detecting, based on algorithms in the detector's software." Again, the numbers are not foolproof by any means, but they can be quite helpful. HOWEVER, in all-metals mode, that number in the middle of the screen is NOT target ID, but instead switches to "ground phase" (i.e., a readout of the "mineralization" of the soil you are hunting in). I will say that while the large number in all-metals mode is NOT target ID, you still have some numerical ID info -- it's at the top of the screen on that 0 to 100 "dial." Place a dime on the ground, and with your machine in all-metals mode, run the coil over the dime, and watch the "dial" at the top of the screen. You will see a few black bars show up within the 80 to 85 range, at the same time you hear the tone representing the dime. This is telling you that, similar to what that large number in the center of the screen WOULD show if you were in disc. mode, that your target (the dime) is being ID'd by the machine with a number in the low 80s. So, to answer your second question directly, you do NOT have a digital number in all-metals mode that helps ID a target, but you DO have a small "range" of numbers indicated on the top of the screen, along that 0 to 100 "dial."

3.) I'm not sure what you are asking in your third question, but if you are talking about that 0 to 100 "scale" or "dial" on top of the screen, YES, you CAN use it, just as I explained above -- in all-metals mode, that "dial" is your "probable target ID" information.

4.) As far as the numbers on the display and what they show, I have talked alot about that in some of what I wrote above. Again, in disc. mode, the big number is "probable target ID", also called "VDI." In all-metals mode, that number now represents "ground phase," or the type of mineralization in the soil you are hunting in. As far as what the numbers tell you, again -- the ground phase tells you the type of mineralization in your soil (this information is most important to gold prospectors, and not AS important to coin, jewelry, or relic hunters); in disc. mode, the numbers tell you, again, VDI or "target ID." Like I mentioned in an earlier email, numbers below 40 are iron; 40-50 will generally be tiny pieces of aluminum or lead -- and also small gold jewelry; 50-60 is where pull tabs and such often ID, as well as nickels, and also somewhat larger gold jewelry; the 60 to 70 range contains various types of metal junk, as well as many gold rings; the 70 to 80 range will include various types of metal junk, as well as large gold rings, and also zinc pennies. The 80 to 90 range is where a large number of U.S. coins will fall, along with a good bit of the silver jewelry (and also a large amount of junk such as smashed aluminum cans, screw caps, etc.); in the 90s range, some large silver will be found, as well as rusted iron objects such as nails, some rusty screw caps, some very large pieces of iron, etc.

Again, keep in mind the limitations with respect to ID numbers. Over time, you will learn to use a wide array of information when making your dig vs. no dig decisions; ID numbers help, but you will also learn to use the different sounds/tones (which in time, will help you to determine likely size and shape of the object, depth, etc.); the depth readout helps (it can indicate whether the target may be older and thus deeper, or possibly newer and shallower); finally, your general EXPERIENCE, both with your machine, and with the area you are hunting, will help you decide what you want to dig, and what you don't. Experience cannot be understated -- and the only way to gain it is to get out, swing the coil, listen and pay attention, and DIG -- dig nearly everything at first, until you learn how different objects (both trash AND treasure) are reported by your machine.

Hope this helps.

Have fun!

Steve
 
Thank you Steve,

I have been of great help ... i have been so busy lately and unfortunately could not try my G2 on the all Metal mode ... but thank you once again your are great and will definitely post any good info on the g2 performance, especially during my trip to old Europe .... thank you
 
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