From Explorer II to E-Trac...

[jcweber77]

Hi guys -- First I just wanted to say that this is a great forum that I read often -- great information. I used to post here LONG ago.. back around '01 or '02 I would say, but just re-registered so I could start posting again. I've metal detected now for around 15 years -- although the last few years I haven't had the opportunity to get out as often as I would have liked. Anyway... I started out with an Explorer XS then moved to an Explorer II which i've had for quite a while now. I plan to start going again regularly and just purchased an E-Trac (should be here Monday). In 6 months I hope I don't regret it if ML comes out with a new version of it since it has been out for so long -- but I went ahead with the purchase regardless.

My Question is... Moving from the Explorer to the E-Trac, what do I need to know? Any pointers from anyone? I pick up things pretty fast. It looks like a lot of the settings are similar, but the smartfind and target ID'ing looks completely new. From what I've read so far... most of the "good stuff" falls around 12 on the Ferrous scale... and can vary on the Conductive scale.

For any of you that may have made this switch... Any things to watch out for or suggestions to make an easy transition?

Thanks!
JC

 

[bcoop]

You will catch on to it very quickly. The only thing I would recommend is to purchase Andy Sabischs' book on the the Explorers and E-Trac and hit the dirt.

BCOOP

 

[sugar]

well this subject has come up often the etrac programs are discussed regularly and everybody runs the machine in their own individual way that is what makes it so special you can hunt how you want to suit your conditions obtaining the best results once you start to talk its language. ok you are correct that most good things come in around the 12 mark and if you want to hunt by ear and this is my opinion only guys so no jumping up and down thankyou in my opinion the only way to hunt is to work in ferrous the reason behind this is one it means you are digging all high tones which is a natural progression from any other metal detector secondly it means that the lines separating the tones go horizontal and mean say if you chose two tone they will split at 17 and everything under that will give you a high tone and means dig no mistake the etrac is seeing it provided you have most of the first line blocked out the iron will not wrap around causing a false high tone so every high tone you hear is a dig and discover what the etrac has seen what can be easier today i went down 11 inches for a silver whip end you just have to trust it as it is fantastic if you run with conductive tones well the other guys will tell you about their way of hunting which i really personally dont understand but then i am in the uk and perhaps the guys that hunt this way all the time will be able to give you some tips about digging the low tones i run with a totallly open screen with the threshold volume turned down to 0 it is an awesome way to run the machine any queries just ask and people will help have you loaded the emulator it helps with learning the controls good luck happy hunting

 

[detectorfreak74]

its not that hard I went fom the safari to the se to the etrac it seems like if ya come from the fbs family its faster to learn

 

[bigjohn070]

My good friend came from exp ll
he only complains about the difference in pinpoint
But that's the only thing I have heard him say

HH with that new beast

 

[D&P-OR]

I've owned & used the XS, EX 2, SE & now the Etrac.----Up until the Etrac came out, the EX 2 was actually my favorite of the group.----You're going to love the Etrac (for a bunch of reasons).-----The "switch over" from EX 2 to Etrac isn't any problem.-----Read & re-read the manual, get Andy's book & read it (for tips, etc.)---and get out there & get some hrs. behind it--it's a GREAT machine.----There's a lot of helpful guys here on this forum (and the Etrac classroom) for any questions you have after you get a few hrs. "swing time". ----Congrats on the purchase!----------Del

 

[mcb613]

I too switched a few weeks ago and I am having a little issue with the tones, as I was a Multi tone Ferrous guy. Still working at it though. I do want to try the 2 tone ferrous in a very old location that I cleaned out several mid to late 1800's coins. Will try it thia weekend.
Good luck with the new E.

 

[utahshovelhead]

The E is the easyest of the the two. A little time spent re calibrating your brain for the 12 fe line but the simplicity of the functions, the great performance, and clear response make it my favorite of the two you ask about. Dont sweat it just go out and use it and youll get it no problem.

 

[McDean]

The ferrous 12 line is not set in stone so I wouldn't rely on it too much... varying factors contribute to the fe #'s but the condu #'s will be fairly accurate...

Had the factory coins pattern loaded one day and got a real iffy high tone at the edge of disc... real warbly sounding... switched to QM all metal and bout got my ears blew off! The reading was now a constant 28-46... I knew iron generally reads fe 34-35 so I got curious and dug it out... about six inches down, a big rusty bolt... well that's funny, passed it over the coil & it screamed at 35-46... tossed it in the bag and scanned the hole again curiously... same tone as before only crisper and cleaner. 12-46 on the screen. Gently pulled dirt outta the hole until I see this silver gleaming at me. It was a 1920 mercury dime in fair condition. It was right below anda little to the left of the rusted bolt. Woohoo!!!

Instead of nulling the iron I had disced out, the signal was "blended" and I was astounded...

Tip: check an "iffy" by going to quickmask-all metal, if the fe# stays constant at 34-35 from various sweep angles there's a good chance its IRON. If the fe# bounces into the twenties or teens especially, it could be worth investigating.

Many experienced users will probably know this already but those who are new to the Etrac may find this info handy... goodluck & HH

Dean