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? for jim....

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Anonymous

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Jim when running ironmask -9,I have not been digging high pitched,upper left targets against the edge of ironmask..Figured they were iron.Am I missing much doing this or should I pull the ironmask up to -7,or 6,,,thanks ahead or time,,charlie
 
Charlie,
Find a area where there is a null of iron and put a dime on it and go over it with the coil and see what happens while in iron mask at the -8 or so. In my test I do I will get the high pitch of the dime, but the crosshairs will be on the top left against the edge of the black like iron would read. Try this yourself and let us know what you think. I did this with a quarter and it will read at the top right like it should but not the dime.The penny will sometimes and the nickle seems to bounce around a lot on the bottom of the screen.
Rick
 
Rick, I don't seem to get that response. If I stop the coil after getting the high pitch the threshold returns and the crosshairs move to the proper spot for a dime and the depth adjusts to the depth of the coin instead of the iron underneath. Same with penny and quarter. The nickel is more irratic but still indicates close to nickel area most of the time.
Remember that with sound set to conductive it is only varying with the verticle change on the screen. Not the horizontal change. Top left will sound the same as top right.
I've had some signals that the crosshairs just sit at the top next to the iron mask never bouncing to the right but I have not dug them to see what they are. I suspect they are iron. Next time I will dig one and check for sure.
 
I would leave it right where you have it set, most times a coin in iron will read just to the right of right if where iron mask starts, or will at least bounce right, but I have had some stay put aliong side.. pay close attention to the audio opn these a coin wont usually give that high ping iron does, at least in cunductive audio, and a good hit on iron down that low will generally put the crosshairs up off the top of the screen, where most coins the cross hair will be totally within the screen.. when I saw ceross hairs I mean the whole box, not just where the crosshairs meet... iron is usually higher off the screen...
 
Wally,
Did you try it on top of one of the nulls you get?? I got 2 wheaties today and both sounded good like the should have, but one stayed at the top left like iron would while the other went to the top more to the right like a wheatie would. After I took out the penny that read like iron I went over the hole and it was a solid null so I took out a new dime and laid it there and it sounded good, but the crosshairs stayed where the iron would and I put down a quarter and it went to the top righ like it should have.
This has happened many time to me and this is why I go by the high pitched tones that are repeatable from differnt directions before I belive the crosshairs in iron areas.
Rick
 
Thanks wally ,rick and jim. I appreciate the advice.Will try ricks null test next time out.Hunted alittle yesterday pm.Dernnit memorials again,some to 5 inches,one clad dime.The ground here in bama is getting really tight (red clay like baked brick,,,oooof!!!! thanks again for the tips <IMG SRC="/forums/images/csflag.gif" BORDER=0 ALT="::"> cs
 
Rick,
Yes, I did it over nulls. I had both deep and fast OFF so maybe I was getting a cleaner signal? I don't know. Next time I get one of those top next to iron mask hits I'll dig it and see whats there.
Wally
 
Only if the good high pitched tones are there, if it warble and changeing tones then it is probably iron from my experience.
Good luck and I hope you find a good one by digging one of these.
Rick
 
But maybe the soil makes a difference here in Florida. I dug three good 'sounding' signals that the crosshairs stayed next to the iron mask at the top. All three were rusty small nails. I found one signal that was between two close nulls that registered penny fairly consistently. It was a penny.
I tried laying the penny on top of the ground with one of the nails on top of it. Got mostly a null swinging lenghtwise on the nail. Got mostly a penny signal swinging at 90 degrees. Tried it with a dime and got similar results with a more solid signal a little left of dime but not near the iron mask.
 
Charlie and others,
Try this. Set your menu to conductivity/ferrous leaving it on conductivity. Then hit the detect button so that option is first on your back button. When you get the above described target responses, hit the back button and then check the audio response in ferrous, short sweeping the center of the coil back and forth across the target several times and from more than one angle. If it is a true non-ferrous target you should get a clear high pitch. If it is really iron as the screen is showing, you should get a lower growl like iron.(IMPORTANT: In high iron trash you may get multiple audio responses and sometimes you will have to listen closely for repeatable high pitch consistant audio response to try and isolate a possible non-ferrous from ferrous target(s).) Use of a small coil in this situation is of great benefit as there will be less targets under the hot line of the coil to try and isolate. With practice you can get very good with this technique and begin to visualize what is down there before retrieval. I use this technique all the time and it is accurate almost all the time. Also, you can check digital for a 31. It will almost always be trash (iron) if it reads a steady 31 without fluctuation after turning 90 degrees and checking from more than one direction. Hope this helps along with the other excellent advise from the others.
Ralph (Sun Ray)
 
I suppose I am so used to just listening to the audio now, I dont come up with alternate ways of checking.. I like the idea of using the back button.. I use it to switch from fast to deep sometimes
 
Hi Wally,
Did more checking today and in the heavy iron infested area of one of the parks I hunt I laid down a dime and it sure sounded good, but could not get it to come off the left top of the screen right nex to the iron area. I tried other areas and it work just fine as it didn have as much iron in it. So I guess it is just where there is a lot of iron that the cross hair are not accruate as I tried it also on my floor in my bussiness and it too wouldnt come off of the top left with all the nails in the floor.
What got me going more by the tones than the crosshairs last year was I dug a lot of rusty nails that showed good on the smart screen, but the tone was warble sounding and when i got those that sounded good and the crosshair where in the top left I left them as I thought they were iron as they were in the top left of the screen and left them and my wife with the Shadow got several siver coins that the Explorer showed as iron. Now I go by the tone and how solid they are and if I can go around the target and check differnt angles and still sounds good 2 or more ways with the coin tone I will dig nomatter what the crosshairs say.
A real hight tone (squeal)is iron from experience so those I automatic ignore.
The silver quarter in this old park I got the other day showed iron on the crosshairs and being it sounded so good and when I tried a differnt angle I seen there was iron beside it as it nulled to quickly, but the target stayed in disc in the same place with the same tone and when I went to pinpoint I seen a larger and louder signal right next to my original target and after I dug the quarter out I recheck the hole and it in disc and it was a soild null. I then laid a dime down in the hole and it too sounded good, but the crosshairs stayed on the top left no matter how I tried to get them to go to the top right.
In not too iron infested areas and mostly pulltabs and other junk I usaly will get the crosshair to go to the right position or close to it to match the tones.
Good luck and what ever works good for you i would keep using.
Rick
 
Ben,
You can leave it ferrous if you like but it does take some getting used to the difference in tones. I prefer conductivity as I am used to the tones and find I only need to do a spot check in ferrous under the above mentioned circumstances. That is one of the great things about the Explorer's capability to analyse target responses in both conductivity and inductance as you can gain more information about the target before making the decision to dig or not. Hope this helps.
Ralph (Sun Ray)
 
If you leave the Explorer in ferrous, do you still have the capability to analyze target responses in both conductivity and inductance? I am going to get your probe and wonder if I could mount it with velcro or something else. Am getting another Explorer and would like to switch probe. Would you recommend this or should I mount it on one and leave it?
 
first target upper leftnext to im bar,,fiddled around, menu sounds etc ferrous/condouctive,,ferrous said medium growl,,left that little iron nail dodo what th its rust baby,and didnt dig it,,thanks ralph ..cs
 
Ben,
The audio in inductance measures the tone response horizontally on the screen (visually) from left to right, right being the highest pitch and left being the lowest. Conductivity in audio is measured (visually) vertically with top of screen being the highest pitch and the bottom being the lowest. The advantage of switching from conductivity to ferrous and back again is that the audio is fooled (less) often than the visual response. Experimenting with the Audio 1 through 3 will also gain more target separation therefore unmasking good targets amongst bad but takes a lot of getting used to as the signal responses are dragged (stretched) out further causing slower cut-off between signals and actually blending them some from one to the other. The higher the audio setting, the more dragging (stretching) that occurs. This definately has target separating advantages but also can much more confusing until an operator becomes thoroughly familiar with it and that comes from hours of field time using it, digging responses and seeing the results.
The X-1 switch box is permenantly attached to the upper rod, so if you wish to change from one Explorer to another you may want to purchase an additional Probe Clip Attachement ($19.95) for the extra Explorer and then just switch upper rods when you want to use the X-1 with it. Hope this helps. Good Hunting!
Ralph (Sun Ray)
 
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