Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Fisher F75 apprenticeship

x_XP

New member
I never thought that I could be so confused to start with with my new f75 detector.
I suppose it does what it suppose to do. Just not simple as I was led to believe.
I am going to have to learn this machine since it is not turn on and go one.

This is not my first detector. For last two years I've use only Garrett Infinium ls and it took me few months to mastermind, but now I am very comfortable with. On Infinium ls I learned how not to dig foil, pull tabs,bobby pins and most bottle tops and I expected F75 to mask them for me. This is not a case at least for now.

I bought F75 for specific reason to avoid bottle tops and pull tabs in the grass/lawn area where I want to use it and for its lightweight construction.
It will be primary use in trashy areas where bottle tops easily outnumber any other type of junk there, old and new.
I do not mind digging crap as a learning curve but on the beach I am not a cleaner and try to recover only what I come there for and live the rest undisturbed. I hope you understand my point.
After removing most of metal object on my test patch I used those holes to bury all modern Australian coins we have just for the test propose. Modern Australian coins composition: 5c - 50c 75% Copper, 25% Nickel , $1 & $2 Aluminium Bronze: 92% Copper, 6% Aluminium, 2% Nickel. Conductivity of US coins is different to Australian coins.
I used discrimination in dE and bc and all metal mode both in factory settings just to get a feel of it.
It can find them easily and deep but my point is target ID, it puzzle me a bit, bottle screw top give me similar number then 50c and all other coins are all over place.Also ID very from left to right and right to left swing.

I can understand why some people would junk F75 after short time of use , but in the long run is the user and his knowledge of machine that counts.

I cannot wrap my head around discrimination and notch at this moment
Also I don't know how to utilize this machine properly either, but pinpointing is so easy.
In Bc mode first thing I dug on the dissent signal were bottle cup x4 before number of pull tabs. Shouldn't this mode mask them somehow?
I know that bottle tops are an occupational hazard when detecting .

Q:
1. Why I get different ID numbers on the same target in dE/bc Mode and all metal mode?
2. Why is a different ID number on the target when swinging from L>R and from R<L ?
3. What is learning curve on this machine 40,100 hours ?
4. What is best setting or mode to use for prospecting JE or all metal and how to best set it?
5. How to set F75 to avoid bottle tops and pull tabs ?
6. What audio responses or tone# setting give a good indication of what to dig or what to ignore ?

Thanks Michael
 
Bottle tops you will hit them..Just about all Detectors hit them..You will also hit most rusty metal caps that have been in the ground for ages..Sorry but true..
BC Mode changes the sound and you have to learn what the sound is for your type bottle caps..

Pull tabs you can disc most out..but for some reason the F75 likes old deep tabs from the 60's gives good readings..
For what your trying to do with the F75 you maybe..Just Maybe should have looked at the T2........

Your getting different ID's because you are seeing different targets left to right and right to left first.. The F75 sees targets other machines miss and at a very fast recovery rate..In other words you not nulling over iron as other detectors do..So you see more potential good targets. As you sweep over the ground. It's a good machine and has great depth.Yes you do have to learn what it is telling you LIKE ALL OTHER MACHINES....
 
xp said:
I bought F75 for specific reason to avoid bottle tops

:crylol:


Elton said:
Just about all Detectors hit them

Oh really? I guess you're right since you said "just about".


1. Why I get different ID numbers on the same target in dE/bc Mode and all metal mode?

Pick DE and use it for a while, they all have their quirks so it's tough to make a correlation between DE, BC, PF.

2. Why is a different ID number on the target when swinging from L>R and from R<L ?

Elton is correct in some instances, but you can duplicate this behavior in a test garden. The thing is, once you use it a while, that "different" TID will help you accurately ID.

3. What is learning curve on this machine 40,100 hours ?

20 hours. Just dig everything, and if it freaks out from EMI, just go somewhere else. If you try to learn it in that environment, you'll be spinning your wheels.

4. What is best setting or mode to use for prospecting JE or all metal and how to best set it?

JE
5. How to set F75 to avoid bottle tops and pull tabs ?

:laugh: - lemme know when you figure it out! The tail end of the DD will sound off as iron on steel BC's but because the 11" DD is so long it can also mean you've moved to an iron target in front of the bottle cap. If there are BC's then you're normally in a park or yard and that means you just have to dig them. If you don't, you'll miss something good.

6. What audio responses or tone# setting give a good indication of what to dig or what to ignore ?

[attachment 134474 F75TIDScale.GIF]
 
I would go with a smaller coil, the 5" DD or the 3.5 X 6.5 Con. coil.
Like any unit, a smaller coil makes it easier to learn.
I may be wrong, but I think the DD coil likes rusty bottle caps better that a Con. coil.
There is lots of help here, I would think the F-75 would be easier to learn than the Garrett Infinium ...
HH...BJ
 
Thank you all for your input.

Now I know where I've started wrong. Firstly I didn't read instruction manual carefully before I took this machine out for the very first time (it must be a male thing).
Secondly I took it to the worst possible, junk infested site to start with for my first try. It took me more than 1 hour to clean out less then square meter of soil so I could put diggings some place without any signal to check them out.
Now I read manual twice from cover to cover. I didn't see it before but it is well written and very,very helpful.
Today I took F75 to some religious summer camp site, (since they don't drink) I MD for 4 hours and it was a good day, I pulled out enough coins new and old ones to make me happy , steel BC - no problem to me any more I think I've worked it out. Pull tabs it is different story.They occupy the same ID as a good stuff
Thanks for the graph, very helpful.
Michael
 
Glad you got a handle on it now. I just got mine around a month ago and I love it. Now that I've gotten used to it's sounds and ID #s I change settings (sens, mode, disc,etc...) after I get a good hit just to see the response it gives. I'm having a blast learning this one.
Have fun!
Mike
 
It seems you were reading the wrong posts the F75 is a hard machine to master it is a machine on steroids and not for the timid or shy! Once you understand it, it can be a great machine in iron and trash. For relic hunting it is one of the best and as a coin shooter it still is a deep fast machine I use it for every type of hunting I do. As for bottle caps it sucks though the numbers will jump from 70-90 that helps me know what the target may be.
 
I agree with Low-Boy on those darn bottle caps... First time out with my F75 to a spot I pounded with my CZ3D I got a solid signal and thought no way I missed this... At about 2" flipped out a rusty bottle cap and thought what the... Signal registered from 70-95 and also saw a + sign in there somewhere... About 10 minutes later, got a signal right next to the side-walk which bounced from 74-90 from left to right, and 90-74 from right to left... Dug the signal and seen another rusty cap... Argh... Recheck the hole and received a solid 74 and out popped a nice 1918 merc... At that point in time I knew I had a great machine and since have found many very nice relics...

HH Robert
 
Top