First day out with my Euro Sabre

[tabdog]

The Euro Sabre that I purchased on eBay arrived yesterday.

Its in very good condition. I don't know how people can own a Tesoro for so long without showing the usual signs of ware. But I'm sure glad they did.

This is my first MD with manual ground balance. It was kind of hard to find what seemed to be a balanced setting with the 12X10 coil. After I switched to the 7" concentric coil, either I got better at it, or the 7" coil is easier to ground balance. Before the day was out it was becoming second nature.

The machine comes stock with a 12"X10" coil. It weighs a ton ( almost one pound ) and makes hunting a painful chore for me. The large coil air test 1" deeper on a quarter, nickle penny and dime than the 7" coil. More significant is that it air test 2" deeper on a 1"X3" bolt. It may go really deep on a large metal object making it a good relic coil. But it's too heavy for me.

I started out relic hunting this morning with the 12X10. The Euro has a true 180 degree acceptance range making it hit strong on all iron and steel objects. It has a feature to help contend with that. It has a three way iron ID togal switch that can be switched off, or switched to blank out most small iron or switched to give iron a low response or a double response. This adds to the types of responses you would get from say, an Eldorado. It has a fascinating language. I was experimenting with different settings and digging every thing to see what this machine was telling me. After digging a clevis at 18" in buck shot, I was pooped.

Had lunch and recuperated for a while. I changed to the 7" concentric coil and headed for a small park with a tiny playground that I have never hunted before. This was another fascinating experience. It is great in a playground. It goes ballistic on a shallow coin and has a destinctive sound on aluminum of medium to large size. The smaller aluminum will still be a problem though. I think the audio iron ID mode is going to be very useful because it also causes different responses on other metals besides iron. Very distinctive sounds. I just love having the chance to learn this machine.

I pulled $2.67 in coin out of the tiny playground and a silver bracelet, a silver something and 4 pieces of cheep jewelry. Not bad for a tiny place. I was retrieving iron almost as small as a grain of sand. Not that that's a good thing to do but I think it's great to have the capability.

My impression is that the Euro Sabre is a great detector. I have much to learn about it and I am glad to have the chance.

Happy Holidays,

 

[Pap]

I'm interested in your experience with the Euro. They were originally made for the European/English market if I recall correctly. Monte would know more on that. I was very, very close to buying one but had the Eldordo uMax already and from what I recall the Euro was basically the same detector with the Iron feature added. I always thought it would make a very good relic unit but never had the opportunity to give it a try. I think your going to like this detector.
Pap

 

[beatty_dt]

Tabdog,

I thought that Euro Sabre would make a powerful asset.

I heard it's siren song but settled for a spiffy orange hunting vest with big of pockets to put my Cibola finds into.

Cheers,

David at Edmonton

 

[margiop]

I usually search in normal disc and switch to audio ID if I don't want to dig iron.
With the 12x10 coil it is not well balanced, but it is perfect with the smallest ones.

 

[tabdog]

I have been wanting to purchase an Eldorado or a Vaquaro. When I saw the Euro for sell on eBay I did some research on it. I was very intreaged by what I read so I placed a big bid and got it for less than what I bid. I was not dissapointed by my purchase. I think Tesoro is working on a cure for buyer's remourse. I hope they continue their improvements. I don't know what I could upgrade to at this point. Every thing els is too heavy and too expensive. It's a nice place to be.

I'll surely have more to post about with my new to me Euro Sabre,

 

[tabdog]

On one side of the blade the Euro Sabre is appearently a great MD. On the other side of the blade I'm going to have to sell my Cibola, which I dearly love, to recoop some of my money for the holidays are upon me. I have my two son's and my mother's birthdays, as well as mine, coming up before Christmas. I now have the Cibola up for bid on eBay.

I don't need four MDs. The Cibola will bring more money than my Silver Sabre or my BH QD II. The Silver will do almost as well as the Cibola and what the Silver doesn't cover then the Euro will.

Happy Holidays,

 

[tabdog]

That 12X10 is a really good coil. I just have trouble lugging it around. For my first Tesoro, I got a Cibola in large part for it's light weight and was pleasantly surprised by it's superior performance. So I have trouble being pleasant surprised by performance and disappointed by it being too heavy. I'm going to stay with the 7" concentric until I'm really feeling my oats. With the 7" coil it is around that magic 2.2 pound weight which I have learned to contend with.

Happy Hunts,

 

[beatty_dt]

Tabdog, Good luck on the sale of your Cibola.

Someone will get a good machine.

The Euro Sabre (tooth cat) is different creature.

I'm sure it's all hunt and no wasted motion.

Purr or growl you're in for adventure.

David at Edmonton

 

[tabdog]

I can now state that the "Iron ID" is not a definite indicator that an object is iron. The manual states:

" The AUDIO ID has three different tones. A high tone for targets that are above the iron range. A low tone for targets in the iron range. A high-low or rolling tone is used to identify iron targets with an odd shape or holes."

I take exception to almost every point expressed in that statement.

I haven't had time to become familiar with IRON ID in very many different situations but I have found that small gold will give a low tone. If you wave the coil just right you may get the tone to roll a little. Larger gold will give a rolling tone. [size=large]DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ IN THE MANUAL[/size] That being said.

Gold gives a weaker low to a rolling tone. It is usually different than small iron in that small iron hits a little sharper but if the iron is 5" deep or so and rusty, it sounds like gold. You can tell large iron pretty good but it can still have a rolling tone. To tell the size and depth it is , I assume(because I don't have one), more or less like you do it with the Eldorado. One thing nice about the Euro&Eldorado verses the Vaquero&Cibola is that the Euro is easier to determine depth. I've only used it about four times and I can already tell if a target is shallow or deep without checking any thing. Just by doing a normal search type swing across it. With the Cibola you may have to change your settings to more accurately determine if it's deep or not.

There are many objects that give a rolling tone. There are different ways the rolling tone will sound. For instance shallow coins roll sharply. Deep coins have a nice high tone. Lead bullets usually roll. The list goes on. I am the kind of guy that likes to tests each site to determine what different targets sound like at each site. After I've dug an item at a given site, then I now what it's going to sound like. It's always different to me, don't know about you.

My early conclusion is that the AUDIO ID feature is expressive and can be a benefit when relic hunting. I also feel that it can be used to zero in on several other targets of interest besides iron. Those repetitive signals like pull tabs or shot gun shells will have a distinctive rolling sound.

This AUDIO IRON ID is new to me and I don't know the extent to which I can apply all these aspects I've discovered, but I will continue on my learning curve.

I'm sure I will have more to blab about later,

 

[beatty_dt]

Your writing should be the way manuals are written.

Some say the comic book format is a good teaching method too.

Story telling helps to deliver understanding short statements in a manual never can.

David at Edmonton

 

[tabdog]

Thank you for your kind words. I am very flattered.

I'm not even close to being a pro, but I can see that the wording can be misleading. Many unexperienced people may tend to believe what the manual says even though actual experience says otherwise. Then they think it's their own fault and not the fault of the manual.

I like telling stories,

 

[Gunnar of bradford MN]

n/t

 

[Monte]

[quote tabdog]I can now state that the "Iron ID" is not a definite indicator that an object is iron. The manual states:

"The AUDIO ID has three different tones. A high tone for targets that are above the iron range. A low tone for targets in the iron range. A high-low or rolling tone is used to identify iron targets with an odd shape or holes."[/quote][size=medium]Typical of many operating manuals, they tend to suggest near perfection, but all were designed and evaluated/engineered via controlled air test parameters, and most operators manuals were written by people who can write and proof-read without the editing and contributions of a knowledgeable and avid detectorist.[/size]


[quote tabdog]I take exception to almost every point expressed in that statement.

I haven't had time to become familiar with IRON ID in very many different situations but I have found that small gold will give a low tone. If you wave the coil just right you may get the tone to roll a little. Larger gold will give a rolling tone. [size=large]DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ IN THE MANUAL[/size][/quote][size=medium]I never do, and that's great advise! Iron has a different effect on the generated electromagnetic field than do non-iron targets.


A 'true progressive" TR-Disc. model with easily reject iron and bottle caps and other magnetic-based metal quite easily in a progressive order to conductive property.

If you filed a large iron nail into fine, grainy powder you would have the same amount of the same metal as you started with. The structure of that metal object, however, has been changed and the filed iron would be rejected easily, while the intact iron nail would possess more conductive properties due to the shape. With the challenges of accurately identifying iron, due to the combination of the magnetic material Vs the more conductive properties due to the man-made shape, you can't guarantee reliable audio Iron ID.

Some models, however, are better at providing that type of audio information (low iron tone), and most models also provide some type of visual confirmation to support that audio info.

With the Euro Sabre, I liked that fact that you at least got some degree of satisfaction from the audio circuitry while still retaining the full-range target acceptance in the motion Disc. mode that was a step up in available performance from the Eldorado ..... the Eldorado being one of the best all-time Tesoro

 

[tabdog]

n/t

 

[tabdog]

I said some things about the accuracy of Tesoros owner's manuals in earlier post. But.

The manual is just a pamphlet intended to give the customer a minimum amount of information to get them started.

It is not a complete manual by any means. We as detectorist are the ones who define our own hunting needs. We have to learn each detector and how it suits our needs. It's a confusing market to shop for a detector because of all the hype going on. If you think about Tesoro doesn't contribute to the hype like some of the other manufacturers with big manuals and videos that burden and tell the detectorist how to hunt. I don't need to be told how to do my thing. I just need enough information to get started. Then it's up to me to learn how to use it. That's true no matter how much information a manual gives me. May be the manual isn't so bad if you take it for what it's intended for.

I like Tesoro more than any other maker. They may not make the best MD in the market, but they are the best at offering a line of detectors that are for sure keepers and they won't brake your pocket book. Most Tesoros are excellent. That can't be said of many companies.

Happy holidays,

 

[Monte]

[size=medium]larger objects, such as buckles, locks, guns, swords, and other big targets. On an occasion you might realize

 

[tabdog]

I don't have a 8X9 to compare with, but the 7" may get approximately 1/2" less depth than the 8X9. The 8X9 could get approximately 1/2" less depth depth than the 12X10.

I measured approximately 1" less depth of a 7" concentric compared to a 12X10. I was rounding off to the inch.

If you do the math, ( take it from a prof surveyor ) that means the difference between the stock 8X9 coil and the 12X10 coil could be as little as 1/4" based on my approximate measurement of 1".

So you are right the 12X10 does go deeper. But, the difference is only significant in larger objects, such as in relic or cash hunting. As I reported in the other post the difference becomes greater with larger iron/steel objects.

Cheers,