diggin4alivin
New member
I live in farm country only crop fields pasture and woods interested in coin shooting only looking for the best detector for the job
regardless of the price
regardless of the price
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farm ground coin shooter
- Thread starter diggin4alivin
- Start date
diggin4alivin
New member
n/t
JOHNMARKHAM
New member
depends on what price range your looking for too??
hh
john
hh
john
MNCoinhunter
Active member
I have made some fantastic finds with my Garrett Ace 250. But if you want better iron discrimination go with the Garrett Ace 350 or AT Pro. Even better iron disc. would be a Minelab Explorer or E-Trac..
david1962hd
New member
Teknetics delta 4000 wouldn't be a bad choice either along with the 10" coil as long as you don't need the manual ground balance.
usafaviator
Active member
MXT/MXT Pro
RandyNorthridgeca
New member
Depends on your soil. If your soil isn't highly mineralized and you're going to dig everything except iron I'd get the Fisher F-75. This would be top of the line and expensive. Next up would be Teknetics T-2 or Omega 8000. If soil is hot I'd go with the Explorer SE or the E-trac. In my opinion If you could only buy one detector in your lifetime and money wasn't an object I'd get the E-Trac. I've been to Colchester England detecting on some huge pastures and my Explorer worked great. On these type of fields you dig any target that isn't iron and you run into lots of iron. The F-75 Is way faster than any explore and if your digging only non ferrous targets I think a faster machine would be better suited for heavy iron areas. That's why I bought the F-75 but haven't been back to England to see how it does. Don't like using my F-75 or Omega in my local parks. I stick with my E-Trac for parks and Beaches and use my F-75 for empty lots or woods.
It can certainly be done, the finding of coins that is, but ONLY coin shooting isn't always possible.
Location is always the key to success so you need to hunt crop fields and pasture and woods where coins were likely to have been lost. Some of the best plowed and planted fields I ever had the chance to hunt were the strawberry fields that I hunted from '60 to '64, and many others hunted the same way from about '55 or so until I arrived to help.
Cool mornings meant many work a long sleeved flannel shirt or light jacket over their regular shirt, and that was removed and tied around your waist when it warmed up. Workers were paid mainly in change as this was before punch tickets. Some money went into shirt pockets and some into pants pockets, but there was constant bending to pluck the berries and you moved quickly to keep up with plentiful rows.
Most of us were bussed out and back so we didn't leave things in a car, and most of us were youth. I know I would sometimes find a coin or two that had dropped out of someones pocket as I worked up a row, and most of the coins I recall earning were Nickels, Dimes, Quarters and Halves, with the latter three all being silver.
In my early days of detecting I tried to work some of these places but the rough, uneven ground was a challenge for those early BFO and TR models. By the mid 1970's I had better equipment and so 10 years after plucking berries I could (with permission) try to pluck lost coins (and pocket knives and keys and other stuff).
By 20 years after I was last harvesting fruit most of these huge fields had become other types of crops, or mainly, subdivisions with homes, streets, or shopping malls. To duplicate those types of rewards today you would need to find cropland that had a very good number of seasonal workers, paid in cash (change), for a good period of time, every year.
The other potential for finding coins in a crop field, a pasture, or in the woods would mean there had to be some site that had a good gathering, usually frequent, and with the types of activities that might help induce coin loss. Most likely there would be other metal objects lost related to the activities held, such as forks and spoons, nails, tin, discarded metal junk, etc. Usually, more of the latter items than coins.
Another would be to locate an old school site or church site, maybe even a small town site with or without dwellings nearby that has faded from the scene. Naturally, when buildings are torn down or burned you get a lot of iron nails and some other unwanted metal, such as cast iron stove parts, horseshoes, buckles, and a lot of similar tings to where old activities took place.
Add in the fact that farming and ranching activity can churn the ground up with plowing and that can periodically move coins deeper or shallower, and some woods vegetation can deposit a little build-up on the ground. Also, with the plowing activity you can end up with dirt clods of various size, and in both woods and plowed land there can be rocks to deal with, and if they get moved that can cover desired objects.
So, in answer to your question about a detector choice I'll break it down rather simply:
A good non-metered detector can work, but they are basically antiques because good visual Target ID models are more helpful, especially if you're trying to isolate coins, for example. It's simply visual discrimination.
Some turn-on-and-go detectors (those with a factory preset Ground Balance) can work okay on varied mineralization. many don't work that well. My favorite of these for basic, getting started use and that I use as a loaner, is the Teknetics Delta.
For better performance I feel it is very helpful to use a model that has either manual Ground Balance or an automated Ground Balance system that lets you lock or hold a good GB setting. I also like a detector that is a comfortable 'fit' with a decent sized upper rod, and that is not too heavy. There are several models that I like or know can do the job, such as the Fisher F-75 and F-5, Teknetics Gamma, Omega, G2 and T2, and the White's M6 and MXT/MXT Pro.
When I want the best depth of detection and I also want a zero-discrimination, all metal accept Discriminate mode operation, then those would be the M6 and MXT's and the Teknetics T2, based upon my personal preference and their proven abilities. many models can adjust very low in the Discriminate range, but not down to a true all metal accept setting for some of my tough sample tests. Even some that have a low setting that says '1' or '0' or 'All Metal' or 'Iron' just don't do it.
You should have at least two coils. That would be sufficient for most hunting needs as the larger coil will handle the open areas, but a smaller coil will work better in and around rocks, brush and dense trash. If money is no issue for you and you want to have a very versatile detector that is easy to learn and adjust with plenty of performance, here's my suggestion:
Teknetics T2 SE that comes with an 11" BiAxial DD coil and a 5" round DD coil. Both coils are very light weight.
White's MXT Pro can be ordered with the 950 concentric coil and then you buy the 5.3 Eclipse, which is a round, 6
Location is always the key to success so you need to hunt crop fields and pasture and woods where coins were likely to have been lost. Some of the best plowed and planted fields I ever had the chance to hunt were the strawberry fields that I hunted from '60 to '64, and many others hunted the same way from about '55 or so until I arrived to help.
Cool mornings meant many work a long sleeved flannel shirt or light jacket over their regular shirt, and that was removed and tied around your waist when it warmed up. Workers were paid mainly in change as this was before punch tickets. Some money went into shirt pockets and some into pants pockets, but there was constant bending to pluck the berries and you moved quickly to keep up with plentiful rows.
Most of us were bussed out and back so we didn't leave things in a car, and most of us were youth. I know I would sometimes find a coin or two that had dropped out of someones pocket as I worked up a row, and most of the coins I recall earning were Nickels, Dimes, Quarters and Halves, with the latter three all being silver.
In my early days of detecting I tried to work some of these places but the rough, uneven ground was a challenge for those early BFO and TR models. By the mid 1970's I had better equipment and so 10 years after plucking berries I could (with permission) try to pluck lost coins (and pocket knives and keys and other stuff).
By 20 years after I was last harvesting fruit most of these huge fields had become other types of crops, or mainly, subdivisions with homes, streets, or shopping malls. To duplicate those types of rewards today you would need to find cropland that had a very good number of seasonal workers, paid in cash (change), for a good period of time, every year.
The other potential for finding coins in a crop field, a pasture, or in the woods would mean there had to be some site that had a good gathering, usually frequent, and with the types of activities that might help induce coin loss. Most likely there would be other metal objects lost related to the activities held, such as forks and spoons, nails, tin, discarded metal junk, etc. Usually, more of the latter items than coins.
Another would be to locate an old school site or church site, maybe even a small town site with or without dwellings nearby that has faded from the scene. Naturally, when buildings are torn down or burned you get a lot of iron nails and some other unwanted metal, such as cast iron stove parts, horseshoes, buckles, and a lot of similar tings to where old activities took place.
Add in the fact that farming and ranching activity can churn the ground up with plowing and that can periodically move coins deeper or shallower, and some woods vegetation can deposit a little build-up on the ground. Also, with the plowing activity you can end up with dirt clods of various size, and in both woods and plowed land there can be rocks to deal with, and if they get moved that can cover desired objects.
So, in answer to your question about a detector choice I'll break it down rather simply:
A good non-metered detector can work, but they are basically antiques because good visual Target ID models are more helpful, especially if you're trying to isolate coins, for example. It's simply visual discrimination.
Some turn-on-and-go detectors (those with a factory preset Ground Balance) can work okay on varied mineralization. many don't work that well. My favorite of these for basic, getting started use and that I use as a loaner, is the Teknetics Delta.
For better performance I feel it is very helpful to use a model that has either manual Ground Balance or an automated Ground Balance system that lets you lock or hold a good GB setting. I also like a detector that is a comfortable 'fit' with a decent sized upper rod, and that is not too heavy. There are several models that I like or know can do the job, such as the Fisher F-75 and F-5, Teknetics Gamma, Omega, G2 and T2, and the White's M6 and MXT/MXT Pro.
When I want the best depth of detection and I also want a zero-discrimination, all metal accept Discriminate mode operation, then those would be the M6 and MXT's and the Teknetics T2, based upon my personal preference and their proven abilities. many models can adjust very low in the Discriminate range, but not down to a true all metal accept setting for some of my tough sample tests. Even some that have a low setting that says '1' or '0' or 'All Metal' or 'Iron' just don't do it.
You should have at least two coils. That would be sufficient for most hunting needs as the larger coil will handle the open areas, but a smaller coil will work better in and around rocks, brush and dense trash. If money is no issue for you and you want to have a very versatile detector that is easy to learn and adjust with plenty of performance, here's my suggestion:
Teknetics T2 SE that comes with an 11" BiAxial DD coil and a 5" round DD coil. Both coils are very light weight.
White's MXT Pro can be ordered with the 950 concentric coil and then you buy the 5.3 Eclipse, which is a round, 6
You do not need a high end machine to hunt coins. Whether its farmland or municipal parks a machine like the Garrett Ace 250 is more than good enough. Go look at all the videos featuring the 250 on coin hunts on You Tube. Nuff sed. Learn what you have from top to bottom, learn what every squeak and squawk your machine makes and why and you will be a successful hunter.
FYI; one of the best coin shooters I know as to coin quality and quantity uses a White's Prizm 4, a machine that is no longer in production, but he understands his machine from top to bottom and regularly out hunts others with their top of the line machines.
But do what you will. It's your money.
FYI; one of the best coin shooters I know as to coin quality and quantity uses a White's Prizm 4, a machine that is no longer in production, but he understands his machine from top to bottom and regularly out hunts others with their top of the line machines.
But do what you will. It's your money.
Critterhunter
New member
Save yourself some money and the hassle of extra programming by getting any model Sovereign. As deep or deeper than an Explorer or an Etrac and with a much more stable target ID at depth. My Explorers didn't get as deep in my medium to high mineral soil. Next choice would be an AT Pro, F75ltd, or T2Se.
diggin4alivin said:
Well 12 Months ago I got a V3 and to be honest it has been practically useless on fields here in the UK, several other users in our club who purchased V3s at the same time have reached the same conclusions, recovery speed no better than the my old XLT the V-rated coils are far to unstable especially in direct sun light, it falses when used in stubble especially and the single frequency modes drive you mad with the continual chirping on mineralised ground .
I gave it 12 Months before admitting defeat so it was sold and I got the XP Deus.
Best move I have ever made, this machine is stable and has super fast recovery and most important I am finding the good stuff once again.
during the past six months the Deus has taken UK clubs by storm and is fast replacing the Explorer SE and Etrac even XP Goldmaxx Power users are upgrading to the Deus once they have tried one out.
Still got my Etrac but its so heavy I'm thinking of letting it go.
I can't offer much advice as to other types of machines, all I have ever used are Garretts "green machines" GTA 500, GTA 1000 powermaster. the belltone is a great feature. I have seen the 1500 GTI in action and it is a coin shooting machine! I can only suggest that if you can try different machines do so! Ford or Chevy? Garrett or ?. what ever floats your boat
whatever you choose, Good luck! HH....C-Dog
whatever you choose, Good luck! HH....C-Dog