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Exp II Ferrous Mode

Outdoors12

New member
Being its winter here in Ohio, I tried air testing some rusty nails in Ferrous mode and found they do not give off the high coin sounds like when in Conductive. I'm considering switching to Ferrous altogether, but someone posted that rusty nails would sound like coins. Maybe my test nails weren't rusty or rotten enough as they are not in wet ground. Why not use Ferrous, can someone out there help steer me the right direction, as even the book suggests using Conductive mode for coin shooting. Thanks in advance!
 
I use ferrous because all good targets sound 'good'. Like you have found out yourself in conductive small rusty iron sounds good... (and 8crt gold sounds like crap.)
 
A lot of people use Ferr and love it. It makes learning the explorer easier for beginners as long as you arent in crown cap areas. I personally like conductive.... that rusty nail bounce can be learned and ignored just like that 00-31 mineral (hot rock) tone. Its kind of like some hunt in smartfind others digital or auto sen vs manual... is there a correct way? What evers working for you. Thats what makes this such a popular machine. How many machines give you these options without one method clearly being better? Now let me throw a monkey wrench in... what about wrap around? Because of sensitivity and averaging of targets there are deep coins in the iron range. So all those BAD tones in ferr arent always ferr targets. Thats why Bryce does so well.... hes learned the bounce that may not be seperated when in ferr because its not as accurate. There just isnt a good or better or even a right way of doing it. Enjoy this versital machine.

Dew
 
And for the most part it will keep nails low tone and the good stuff high. But... Iron that causes iron falsing- bent square nails seem to be the worst culprit- will cause a good sounding signal in both ferrous and conductive modes- as it will cause a hit in the upper right of the screen. But generally iron falsing will have a slightly different cursor bounce; look for Mike Moutray's posting of where stuff bounces. He did this many years ago and is still the best guide out there. The real challenge is when good targets are intermingled with ferrous; there are some real subtleties that take years of experience to figure out.

If you want to hunt open screen you have to be in ferrous. Many of us will just discriminate out steel bottle caps. Ferrous is not fun if you are hunting in picnic areas or places with lots of pull tabs and other non-ferrous junk that hits toward the middle or right half of the screen.

And like everyone says: Both methods find coins. Pretty much comes down to what you get used to; either lots of nulling or lots of low tones.

Chris
 
I think whatever method you focus on will work. The great thing about this forum is that you can shorten the learning curve by benefitting from the trial and error (experience) of others.
I hunt everything from yards to fields to woods to cellar holes. I learned my machine in ferrous (combined with Bryce's tips). I use iron mask ALMOST wide open, deep on.
I will dig almost all deep targets especially if the given area has produced older, deeper stuff. I go mostly by tones but I don't rely on them. Like everybody has indicated, you have to develop a "gut" through experience.
Bruce in Ct
 
The depth at which the target ID starts jumping around will vary depending on the site conditions and is normal. While the ID may jump around at least you get something on the deeper targets.

Mineralization, iron, and trash aside moist soil is generally better than bone dry or sopping wet soil. Sopping wet soil can be worse than bone dry soil if rusty nails are plentiful.

Here's a deep target tip...lets say a target at a given site 5 inches deep gives you a rock solid ID, 100% coin response. At 7 inches deep the ID begins jumping around, 80% coin response and 20% other. At 9 inches deep things are getting iffy, 50% coin response and 50% other. At 11 inches deep it sounds like crap, 20% coin response and 80% other or worse.

The question of the day is, what is this "other"? Where does "other" ID and more importantly do you have "other" discriminated out? Absent any rusty nails or trash other = ground mineralization. Mix 8 parts ground mineralization with 2 parts deep coin and what do you get? A bouncing cursor that hangs mostly over in the iron area of the screen with an occasional bounce towards the coin area. Sometimes you don't even get that, the worst of the worst stay in the iron area around iron mask -14 range. How many people have dug a crappy signal that sounded mostly like iron, recover a coin then sweep the hole with the probe and big coil and find there was no iron nearby? I have many times.

This behavior seems to hold true across a wide range of soil types, only the depth at which targets start to get iffy varies. In some parts of the US things get iffy at only 6 inches, in other parts of the country they can get a solid ID at 12. Most of the sites I hunt things get iffy starting around 8 inches for a small cent sized target.

So if you are hunting deep targets in the iffy detecting range running little or no iron discrimination can help. Nulls are sticky and stretchy, the machine doesn't like to let go of a null. If the weak coin signal is being pulled over to the iron side of the screen and the machine is nulling how will you hear the coin?. Nearby iron only makes matters worse. Conductive tones is of course counterproductive to this type of deep hunting. Iron sounds high, so do the coins and the cursor is bouncing all over the place. That doesn't give you much information to go on. With ferrous tones what you hear is the 20% high coin tones peeking and fluting through the low 80% iron tones. I mean lacking a target ID all you really have to go on is the tones, the pitch and shape of the signal as you sweep it.

I'll let some more air out of the digital screen approach, worn silver dimes can ID down in the indian head range and worse. Half dimes and 3 cent pieces also ID lower on the screen. Indian head cents can ID all over the dang place depending on how corroded they are. Even the mighty barber half dollar can get yanked well off its mark by a rusty crown cap directly overhead. The worse silver coin I dug was a worn smooth half reale which the cursor locked on steady to around iron mask -14 and stayed there. Yet I was hearing mostly a high silver tone in ferrous (another vote for ferrous over conductive)which freaked me out a little as I thought at the time that should not happen. That only goes to show you that tones rule and do not always agree with where the cursor is landing.

Lastly, I know it can be frustrating not finding deep coins when you think they are down there. But if coins are down there deep there will also be trash items down there, lead toys, junk rings, brass shell casings, and the like. I highly recommend that you go out and forget all about what the target is and just concentrate on how deep it is. Hunt using your depth meter. If you get a deep target at the depth you think an old coin should be, if its not a nail dig it up. A couple hunts like this can really expand your understanding of the machine.

Charles
 
See look at all the different styles of hunting. I used to hunt with a small area blacked out for bottle caps and in the upper left of the screen where most iron hits. Now i just use 28 IM, conductive, FAST and DEEP off just because i use 9 Gain and sensitivity 24. If i need a slower recovers i turn deep on, up the sensitivity and lower the gain to 7. I may hunt an area several times so i want to be flexible and may hunt it differently based on what i learned. Ive looked at Mikes screens ... there is a lot of information there. I also like the simulator.... great way to spend the winter too guys.

Dew
 
If your going to hunt in Ferrious Mode . Read these three posts . I think they will help you understand your EX 2

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,72017,72035#msg-72035

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,1088354,1088354#msg-1088354

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,1088354,1088354#msg-1088354
 
Thank you all very much; nothing like the voices of experience to help others cut the learning curve dramatically! Can't wait for spring to experiment with some of those signals in the past I just let go, wondering why all I've found in the past was mostly clad & zinc.
 
Great info from some very good gurus with this machine. Let me add a bit of what i found with DEEP on. Charles mentioned if you had GAIN 9 or 10 you got too much falsing and couldnt hear those deep coins. Id say thats correct.... but with deep off and gain at 9 my deep coins modulate. So i hunt with one or the other... but not both. He also mentioned if in ferr and you have crown caps disc out you might miss some of those deep nickels. Ive noticed Buffs fall in that range in my area. I didnt realize charles hunted with nails and crown caps disc out... i used to do that as well, but found IM 28 just as effective for me. Now i did notice nickels have a little different and better sound in Ferr , which surprised me that he didnt want to find more of them. I know I know.... no one hunts pennies or nickels. This post had some excellent advice always worth revisiting.

Dew
 
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,1082506,1085440#msg-1085440

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,232964,233284#msg-233284
 
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