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Excalibur II knobs

digaholic

New member
Excalibur II users...any suggestions on replacement knobs. I am having issues with the knobs becoming loose. If I use replacement knobs with a brass or aluminum insert and set screw will the salt water cause a chemical reaction and fuse the two metals (shaft and insert on knob) together?
 
I used the replacements that are available on eBAy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-5-Improved-Control-Knobs-Minelab-Excalibur-G-/330521998218?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf4a5738a#ht_1955wt_1270

Improved replacement knob for all Minelab Excalibur metal detectors. These knobs use a stainless steel socket head setscrew on the side and therefore are much less likely than the factory stock knobs to work loose. They feature a molded-in index pointer which allows the controls to be set by feel rather than having to look at them. The larger diameter (3/4"), and textured surface, make these knobs easy to grip even with wet fingers. Made of durable plastic, corrosion resistant brass, and stainless steel.

When you purchase a quantity of 1 you will receive a set of five (5) knobs!
 
Here is basically the same knob (all brass) in red. Quite a bit less expensive. You should have no problem using brass or stainless I wouldnt think since they have used these two metals around sea water for years.



Knob for Excalibur Shaft
 
megadivers said:
Here is basically the same knob (all brass) in red. Quite a bit less expensive. You should have no problem using brass or stainless I wouldnt think since they have used these two metals around sea water for years.



Knob for Excalibur Shaft

The other set use a stainless steel socket head setscrew on the side, yours use brass. I am not too sure brass will hold up very long in salt water.
 
Do you happen to have the Radio Shack catalog number for these yellow knobs? I can't find them on Radio Shacks website.
 
Just the other side of the coin. The knobs are ment to silp before braking the internal stops which render the unit useless (broke 200 dollar repair and 3 months)
The added tork combined with the fact they no longer silp break the little internal stop located on a circuit board,if in you haist of excitement turn too hard or fast!
I for one have only hard one dial slip and I just tighten it up. Belive me its not worth the risk. I have seen several un happy hunters with broken machines. this was the culprit!
IMHO steve
 
moanakula said:
Do you happen to have the Radio Shack catalog number for these yellow knobs? I can't find them on Radio Shacks website.
If you are referring to my knobs they are yellow because I painted them that color.Model:
274-416
| Catalog #: 274-416
 
Buried Crap NJ said:
Just the other side of the coin. The knobs are ment to silp before braking the internal stops which render the unit useless (broke 200 dollar repair and 3 months)
The added tork combined with the fact they no longer silp break the little internal stop located on a circuit board,if in you haist of excitement turn too hard or fast!
I for one have only hard one dial slip and I just tighten it up. Belive me its not worth the risk. I have seen several un happy hunters with broken machines. this was the culprit!
IMHO steve
Been there done that:angry: and I concur 100%.
I have had the discriminate and on/off knobs break the stop on the pot allowing the knobs to rotate 360 degrees on 2 of my Excals. I had used the bigger knobs on them, but have since gone back to the OEM ones. I suppose I could be more gentle on them, but while waist high in the surf with big sweepers rolling in...where I may only have one shot at a recovery...a nice big knob while easy to use and get at, they do NOT make my machines detect any better. I'm not the easiest on my equipment and in the heat of battle I tend to twist knobs just a tad to hard for my Excal's liking thus Minelab has had to repair 2 Excal due to my ham handiness.
So I'll stay with the stock knobs and recommend anyone doing the change be aware you are multiplying the force on some small delicate electronic parts by going to bigger knobs.
 
Has anyone tryed to fix the pots themselves...? I am going to do the Remote PP mod and have a broken Disc. sensitivity pot...from my understanding it should be pretty easy to fix...since ill have the excal open for the PP mode...figured id give it a shot and try to save money and time..if it doesn t work...ill send it in...!
 
BB, take some pics of the damage...would be interesting to see, if we can see
 
OBN, I will document the adventure...both the remote mod and Disc. Sensitivity knob damage and fix...Ordered my Push-button from Digi-Key today, cant wait to get at it....Question...use marine silicone when replacing end caps and before tightning screws....?
 
aqua seal or dow111
 
There was another post on one of the forums that it was extremely had to find a pot that fit the board at the same time fit the requirements for the technical spec's. I'll see if i can find it?
 
I was looking for the correct Potentiometer some time ago-so that was my post. I came to the conclusion after a 30 day hunt for one that they were custom made for minelab to their specs. Problem is, you can't get one from Minelab either unless you send your machine in for repair. I hope you do not need one. I was able to fix mine because I had a donor machine. If you replace the knobs, be ready for a possible replacement of one or more pots unless you are very careful with your adjustments.
 
I have a 1000 with the same problem. The disc. turns 360...Talked to Minelab about fixing the problem myself and they said it wasn't really hard to do but of course they don't sell the pots and it does take a pot ya ain't gonna find at Mouser or any other electronics company....They said it would cost approx. 150.00 to fix...So will send it in and get it tuned up.....
 
Yup, i just finished opening up my excal to do the remote PP/Disc. mode..Not knowing a thing about electronics, i managed to pull off the mod with Oldbeechnuts help...the one thing i was able to do is get the Disc. sensitivity knob back at the lowest setting in order to remove the motherboard...Originally when i was putting on new knobs, my hand slipped and spun the disc. knob around, past stop and broke it, when that happened there was no knob on the dial..so i didnt know were the disc. setting was at...i did some air tests with a pop top and 10k gold ring, as soon as the pop top was discriminated, i would check the ring, they reject at the same setting....as soon as they were rejected i put the knob back on with the setting at #12(not o'clock). In the excalibur 2 instruction manual it says poptops reject between 11 and 15 on the setting...So i figure that was the right spot, I quadruple checked it with the ring and pop top and it seems to be consistant... I talked to minelab also about, gave me the same quote...Personaly I dont want to spend 150.00 and be out my excal for a indefinate amount of time, thats just me though ....I hunt in lowest Disc. setting all the time...just as long as i know its in the lowest setting..im good with it for now...if i have to send it in for someother reason in the future i will have the pot fixed then...untill then..im a happy hunter...

P.S. I was totally convinced that the excal was in lowest disc. setting when i found my FIRST GOLD RING.....!
 
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