Excal knobs & lower clevis and shaft

[Ytcoinshooter]

Does anyone use silicone to reattach these caps onto the knobs?
I figure it's an easy way to affix it in case it ever has to be removed. Last year Minelab service at Kellco went completly through my unit and did the necessary repairs and seal replacements.
On another issue, the clevis separated and slid out of the lower rod on my Excal 2 while beach hunting. I have my water shafts drilled to accept both sovereign and Excal lower rods. Why Minelab puts the spring clip on the side of the Excal rods and on the bottom of the Soverign rods makes no sense except to sell more parts. I'm thinking it was just a fluke and both leer rods are made the same, I mean the clevis to coil ears was not meant to come apart from the left SEF rod unlike the "old" days when some detectors used a separate clevis or isolator rod as we sometimes called them. I used some two part plastic weld to put that back together. I liberally placed the plastic weld up inside the lower tube and on the clevis. Quite a bit bunched up where they meet when I put them together. That ring of tan junk is the plastic weld. Should be strong now but I'm going out again without a spare. Be nice if it was all on piece.

Thought this post might be helpful to others.
HH - Bruce

 

[Ytcoinshooter]

Quick edit - this read incorrectly: "was not meant to come apart from the left SEF rod " meant to say -apart from the lower shaft rod- NO reference to SEF intended…. Also it should read I am not going out again without a spare lower rod.
Dang spellchecker on my phone changed my text and I did not check before posting.

 

[nagov]

Funny thing about those lower rods....the day I got my Excal II, I put it together and got ready to go out hunting and my coil fell off the rod..... just like you did, I had to epoxy the darn thing on day one....don't worry none, that epoxy on the lower shaft still holds after two years,..... Minelab found they could save a few bucks over a years time by not putting as much glue on the shafts..... As for a spare rod, I've never carried a spare.....I do carry spare plastic bolts and wing nuts for when they break

 

[NamVetLesTreasureSeeker]

Bruce, LOOK into getting the AFTERMARKET EXCAL Style Knobs with either STAINLESS STEEL or BRASS Set Screws!! The Aftermarket Knobs DO NOT have REMOVABLE CAPS,
just SET SCREWS!! That way YOU can Remove the CAPS E-A-S-I-L-Y to TIGHTEN the POTENTIOMETER, if it becomes L-O-O-S-E!! Otherwise, YOU have to PRY OFF the CAPS, and then F-O-R-C-E a 1/4" NUT DRIVER D-O-W-N INSIDE the KNOBS to T-I-G-H-T-E-N the POTENT.!! It makes it ALOT Easier to REPOSITION the Knobs if YOU have to!! Hope
this HELPS, Les Robinson.

 

[bootyhoundpa]

Hi bruce. my sov gt coil fell off shortly after i bought it years ago... i reglued it back together with sub floor adhesive and drilled 2 tiny holes thru which i inserted round toothpicks then cut them flush at outside of shaft...never had any problem with it since and thats been 7 years.... as far as the excal knobs i converted over to the set screw type that radio shack use to sell...the nice thing about the radio shack type is they have a small point that sticks out just beyond the dial which comes in real handy when making adjustments in the dark.... happy spring,6 inches of fresh snow on our freshly thawed ground....

 

[dewcon4414]

I use the set screw type from Radio Shack as well. What i found is the LARGER ones move easier and allow you to feel the stops better so you DONT break the switches or pots. Also, if you get the ones with brass set screws....... change um out to SS. The brass ones does corrode.

Dew

 

[Ytcoinshooter]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the replies. I'm real careful with the knobs and pots. I'll pick up some aftermarket knobs. I hardly move the knobs except for on / off threshold and sensitivity. I have a remote pinpoint mod (switch built into handle) that's the cats @$$!
HH - Bruce

 

[tvr]

Just went to charge the Excal and change batteries on the CZ and the Excal coil end fell out of the lower shaft. Looks like only two small dots of glue were used and they did not spread far; miniscule contact area for the adhesive. Battery post cleaning brush did a nice job of cleaning and roughing up the surface both inside the tube and on the lower insert. Going back together with more than two little dots of adhesive; I'm going with epoxy since I have that on hand.

 

[GeorgeinSC]

I had the same problem with one of the shafts for my GT. Found a super glue that said it would give you 15-20 seconds to properly position the item being glued. So I made the purchase, applied the glue, inserted the clevis into the shaft and much to my surprise it could not be moved. It was no longer lined up properly for use. So I took the shaft to a friends house and we drilled new holes for the spring clip.

 

[tvr]

George,
If you ever want to try to take it apart and re-glue it, there are super glue debonders available that I've read many people say work well. Search in the model airplane and hobby shop places for it. I have not personally had to try it, but the model airplanes folks say the debonder is the only way to go when things that weren't supposed to get stuck together got stuck or for something that just needs to be reworked or rebuilt.
Cheers,
tvr

 

[GeorgeinSC]

I tried one of the debonders that was recommended by the manufacturer of the super glue. It did not work.