I was taking off the factory spider coil and noticed a chunk of the plastic ear was loose and cracked from the hole. It seems the plastic on the lugs is very thin compared to some other coils I have. Has anyone ever sent a coil in to be repaired for this or is there a homemade fix available.
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does minelab repair the mounting ears on a xterra coil?
- Thread starter mitwes56
- Start date
The lugs are thin. However, I always just tighten the wing nut to where it just keeps the coil in the proper position. I'm not saying you over tightened it, sometimes things just happen. Maybe a good epoxy will work. I wouldn't think they can be fixed but, what do I know. Give them a call. good Luck.
I've tried epoxy when trying to glue plastic to plastic, it seems to want to break loose if there is any flexing. I think epoxy works good if there is no give in the material.
Unfortunately, there are not many glues recommended for working with plastic, if someone knows a great glue for plastic, let us all know.
Unfortunately, there are not many glues recommended for working with plastic, if someone knows a great glue for plastic, let us all know.
BarnacleBill
New member
Probably the only thing with a chance of working is MEK or Plastruct Bondene. Be warned, very nasty stuff that melts the plastic, not a glue or adhesive, but a solvent. DO NOT use like a glue! That is to say, apply some to both pieces and then stick together, that won't work. Put the pieces together and hold in place(clamp). Go around the outside of the crack with a small applicator(brush, toothpick, dental tool) applying small amounts. Probably best to practice on some other piece of plastic to get the technique down.
Plastruct Bondene usually comes in a small 2 oz bottle with a brush and is about $5 USD a bottle. A local Hobby Shop might have some, if not the internet.
HH
BarnacleBill
Plastruct Bondene usually comes in a small 2 oz bottle with a brush and is about $5 USD a bottle. A local Hobby Shop might have some, if not the internet.
HH
BarnacleBill
Its the clear type epoxy that comes it the two tubes side by side so u can push one plunger and get equal amounts. It says for hard plastic on the list of things it will bond to. It sets in one minute and completely cures in 24 hours. I have been using it for several years on the tip of my whites bullseye pinpointers to seal and reinforce the tip on them. Drys shiney clear. I got this at advance auto parts. The item number on the epoxy is 84160. Like I said in my first post on this , the plastic is not completely broken off , just one end is loose. I gently pushed it apart and coated the break with epoxy and then put a thin coat on the outside , around the bolt hole. I used duct tape to tape off the repair area and to keep it neat but take the tape off before it starts setting good.
I bet this stuff will work. Loctite is an industrial leader for adhesives.
Sounds like the stuff BB mentioned will work too, I guess that stuff actually melts the plastics together.
I have even tried a soldering gun to melt plastics together, it will work somewhat but I can't recommend it because it only melts a small area off each side, not enough for a strong bond.
Sounds like the stuff BB mentioned will work too, I guess that stuff actually melts the plastics together.
I have even tried a soldering gun to melt plastics together, it will work somewhat but I can't recommend it because it only melts a small area off each side, not enough for a strong bond.
There is also some glue made by Devcon, called plastic welder. It is a 2 part mix like epoxy.
I had success using it, glueing back together my side view mirror, it has been holding now for a couple of years, actually I used the soldering iron to melt the 2 together then I applied the glue.
Plastics however are the hardest to get bonded together.
I had success using it, glueing back together my side view mirror, it has been holding now for a couple of years, actually I used the soldering iron to melt the 2 together then I applied the glue.
Plastics however are the hardest to get bonded together.
stewartlittle
New member
This maybe alittle risky for you,but I would'nt be affraid to try it.
Things you'll need,Hot Glue Gun,small Butane or Propane torch or Butane lighter.
Have glue gun read to go.
1) Heat the area just enough to make it a tad tacky on both ear and coil,you DO NOT want it to start melting (careful on the coil.)
2) Add alittle hot glue,hold till it cures enough to hold it secure,then let cure for a while.
I dont think it should hurt the coil as long as it doea not get too hot,but it's still a risk.Also another note,some plastics wont melt so take more caution with that in mind.
I fixed a splash guard like that and it seemed to almost bond together.
If that does not work,you don't want to do that,you could try this.
I dont know how Liquid Nails is,but I used some Polyurethane Adhesive on my camper roof and it sticks very good and stays flexible.
Just be sure to clean the area and scuff with sand paper so it'll grip better.
Things you'll need,Hot Glue Gun,small Butane or Propane torch or Butane lighter.
Have glue gun read to go.
1) Heat the area just enough to make it a tad tacky on both ear and coil,you DO NOT want it to start melting (careful on the coil.)
2) Add alittle hot glue,hold till it cures enough to hold it secure,then let cure for a while.
I dont think it should hurt the coil as long as it doea not get too hot,but it's still a risk.Also another note,some plastics wont melt so take more caution with that in mind.
I fixed a splash guard like that and it seemed to almost bond together.
If that does not work,you don't want to do that,you could try this.
I dont know how Liquid Nails is,but I used some Polyurethane Adhesive on my camper roof and it sticks very good and stays flexible.
Just be sure to clean the area and scuff with sand paper so it'll grip better.
"My method uses acetone and a hypodermic needle of medium size. (MEK and tetrahydrafuran can also be used, but are extremely expensive). Also note that using any of the above chemicals should be done in a well ventilated area and are totally at your own risk.
Place the coil on a surface that the acetone will not damage and in a position that prevents any overage/spillage of the acetone during application from dripping on any other part of the coil. It will make the surface of the plastic ugly.
Put the cracked piece (if completely loose) back in the exact position you need for permanent repair. If cracked only, place some type clamp (pressure) to put it back as near original as possible. Pour some of the acetone in a small glass container, slurp a small amount into the hypo and apply sparingly to the crack(s). It usually takes several small applications for best results. (NOTE, additional applications, other than sparingly will melt the original). The best repair results when the entire crack(s) are bonded on both sides of the ear.
My suggestion, since this is your first try would be to practice on an old broken coil cover (most are of ABS plastic which is about the only plastic acetone bonds) until you obtain the results desired prior to doing the ear of your coil. If you have tried glues of any kind, it is imperative that they be removed as acetone only bonds plastic to plastic in this application.'
Like I said, this information was sent to me by a friend. I haven't had the need to try it out, but you can bet if Ty says it is good, it is GOOD!
HH Randy
Place the coil on a surface that the acetone will not damage and in a position that prevents any overage/spillage of the acetone during application from dripping on any other part of the coil. It will make the surface of the plastic ugly.
Put the cracked piece (if completely loose) back in the exact position you need for permanent repair. If cracked only, place some type clamp (pressure) to put it back as near original as possible. Pour some of the acetone in a small glass container, slurp a small amount into the hypo and apply sparingly to the crack(s). It usually takes several small applications for best results. (NOTE, additional applications, other than sparingly will melt the original). The best repair results when the entire crack(s) are bonded on both sides of the ear.
My suggestion, since this is your first try would be to practice on an old broken coil cover (most are of ABS plastic which is about the only plastic acetone bonds) until you obtain the results desired prior to doing the ear of your coil. If you have tried glues of any kind, it is imperative that they be removed as acetone only bonds plastic to plastic in this application.'
Like I said, this information was sent to me by a friend. I haven't had the need to try it out, but you can bet if Ty says it is good, it is GOOD!
HH Randy
thedeserttortoise
New member
Another Idea. I am willing to bet that by using the original yoke and parts that any repair you do will not last long. I would cut and grind off the original yoke (whats left of it) and square up the old mounting point. Using a scroll saw, or band saw cut a new piece out of a new block of plastic. Keep a substantial base on the new yoke, drill it out for your mounting screws and then use two part epoxy and clamp it in place. Shouldn't take long to do and will last years.