Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.
Does anyone have any programs for the explorer II
- Thread starter ironman05
- Start date
If you are stuck on running a coin program I would use the stock coin program the Explorer came with.
This program is a COMPOSITE of hundreds of coins from around the world according to Minelab
Although I would not recommend that to anyone EXCEPT a new user for say half a season or until they get a serious grasp of the tones.
You can use the Edit feature starting with a blank screen and by using the cursor move it around to any area you deem and set up the Explorer to discriminate out anything you would like by notching it out (blackening).
When you are doing this the cursor size can also be changed making it a quicker task BTW.
You could even use the "Learn" feature. Basically notching in the coins you are after (there are 1024 notches) BUT, remember not all coins are laying flat nor are they the same thickness as when minted.
Ground mineralization also plays a part in this and many are at greater depths effecting their distinct screaming high tone and the hit on the SmartFind screen.
I would say many of my coins would not hit realistically where a learned coin might hit.
This will drastically throw those hits outside of your accepted coin target program and exactly why I would not suggest making one.
To sum up coin programs:
DO NOT USE THEM if you are truly after the deepest oldest coins IMHO.
That is why you need to learn the Tones and use the SmartFind screen as a reference and not the reverse.
Also, as far as getting carried away with discrimination:
Have you ever wondered where a Buffalo Nickel and a Barber Dime hit in the same hole?
How about a fatty Indian and a old Silver?
Are you willing to set up all these scenarios and the countless others which may include a coin?
Now imagine these scenario's and these coins canted along with the other scenarios already mentioned.
There are a so many variables you are going to probable discriminate out if you are going to just go after exact specific coin hits.
The more discrimination you have the more you are going to be missing things pure and simple.
I suspect the reason you have had little response to your question is answered above.
In short I would surmise most Explorer users in the U.S. (well except maybe those guys on the other side of the pond with their varieties of Bronze ancients
) do not use a discriminated coin program looking for specific coins.
I like my IM set at about -14 / -12 and sometimes will run it wide open with no discrimination at all.
I would suggest you try "Ferrous Tones" as this will basically give all your highest Conductive items (Silver, Copper, Gold) and (lowest amount of Ferrous content) a higher sound and your less conductive items like Iron (which is Ferrous) a lower tone.
But, once again it is only a suggestion but, trust me well worth a try.
You can search "Coin Programs" and search the Classroom or reg Forum also setting the time-frame to "all dates" but, many pictures are no longer there but, the posts are.
Thought I would at least respond to your question even though I could not provide a special coin program.
This program is a COMPOSITE of hundreds of coins from around the world according to Minelab
Although I would not recommend that to anyone EXCEPT a new user for say half a season or until they get a serious grasp of the tones.
You can use the Edit feature starting with a blank screen and by using the cursor move it around to any area you deem and set up the Explorer to discriminate out anything you would like by notching it out (blackening).
When you are doing this the cursor size can also be changed making it a quicker task BTW.
You could even use the "Learn" feature. Basically notching in the coins you are after (there are 1024 notches) BUT, remember not all coins are laying flat nor are they the same thickness as when minted.
Ground mineralization also plays a part in this and many are at greater depths effecting their distinct screaming high tone and the hit on the SmartFind screen.
I would say many of my coins would not hit realistically where a learned coin might hit.
This will drastically throw those hits outside of your accepted coin target program and exactly why I would not suggest making one.
To sum up coin programs:
DO NOT USE THEM if you are truly after the deepest oldest coins IMHO.
That is why you need to learn the Tones and use the SmartFind screen as a reference and not the reverse.
Also, as far as getting carried away with discrimination:
Have you ever wondered where a Buffalo Nickel and a Barber Dime hit in the same hole?
How about a fatty Indian and a old Silver?
Are you willing to set up all these scenarios and the countless others which may include a coin?
Now imagine these scenario's and these coins canted along with the other scenarios already mentioned.
There are a so many variables you are going to probable discriminate out if you are going to just go after exact specific coin hits.
The more discrimination you have the more you are going to be missing things pure and simple.
I suspect the reason you have had little response to your question is answered above.
In short I would surmise most Explorer users in the U.S. (well except maybe those guys on the other side of the pond with their varieties of Bronze ancients
) do not use a discriminated coin program looking for specific coins. I like my IM set at about -14 / -12 and sometimes will run it wide open with no discrimination at all.
I would suggest you try "Ferrous Tones" as this will basically give all your highest Conductive items (Silver, Copper, Gold) and (lowest amount of Ferrous content) a higher sound and your less conductive items like Iron (which is Ferrous) a lower tone.
But, once again it is only a suggestion but, trust me well worth a try.
You can search "Coin Programs" and search the Classroom or reg Forum also setting the time-frame to "all dates" but, many pictures are no longer there but, the posts are.
Thought I would at least respond to your question even though I could not provide a special coin program.
I thought the link was long taken down but, I tracked it down for you.
It does have a rough idea of a Coin program if that helps you.
As importantly it can serve others in knowing what I mean by Crosshair Skip/Flutter etc.
Some Explorer info that is crucial (esp.beginners).
It does have a rough idea of a Coin program if that helps you.
As importantly it can serve others in knowing what I mean by Crosshair Skip/Flutter etc.
Some Explorer info that is crucial (esp.beginners).
This advice is also the same message I have been copying and pasting to Explorer users for a few years now and that is:
IMHO....LEAVE it in the factory preset conductive sounds settings.. while hunting in the smartfind screen for at least 5 to 10 full hunts.
Don't mess with anything for some time. Those preset settings are there for a reaon...and that reason is to help new users adapt to the language the SE speaks.
IMHO the worst thing a new explorer user can do is switch anything at all...especially switch back and forth between conductive and ferrous sounds.
That will completely change what you hear and how you hear it over deep coins....and probably confuse you at this point.
Take your time...swing very slow...and do NOT worry about anybody's settings right now. There is a crucial time frame where you have to spend some quality time with your new friend...the SE...and nobody else. That time is the first few hunts.
Pay close attention to the barrage of sounds you hear...the nulling...the instability...etc...and don't get frustrated.
ONLY 2 things I would even consider changing from the stock factory learning settings which is pretty much a coin program....
1) possibly set the iron mask at -6 on the EX2 while continuing to hunt in smartfind screen.
2) The only other thing I would consider changing would be to put the sensitivity in semi auto and set it at 26 which will GREATLY cut down on the falsing and chirping..
Both of those change suggestions do not even need to be made IMHO...but if you must tinker...then tinker with only those two things.
Everything else....I strongly recomend leaving alone for a few weeks...and leaving it in the factory preset settings.
Do NOT try too much too fast...just have FUN.
These Explorers are more than capable of hitting 8"+ deep coins right out of the box in the factory preset mode.
Once you have quite a few hours on it...and have familiarized yourself with the "language" it speaks...then you can start to piddle with settings if need be.
You might even decide at that point that you want to give ferrous sounds/AM a shot. That is a proven method as well.
For now though...trust me...leave it as I suggested for a few hunts...then when things start to click a little...you can start piddling and tinkering
Of all the things I get asked about through messages...this is the number one thing...and my advice never changes.
I think it's a big mistake for new users to get caught up in what other's settings are and they try too much too fast...then get discouraged and sell the Explorer.
Just take your time...enjoy...and get a "feel" for the explorer before taking big leaps...and the learning curve will lessen a bunch.
After a few weeks or 5 to 10 full hunts...whichever comes first....then start pickin' the brains of everyone on this forum for tips...suggestions...advice...settings to try...etc. This place is a wealth of knowledge and there a ton of talented hunters here who will help you in whatever way you need.
After that initial learning time period I would then recommend trying some different settings if need be...and I'll provide mine below:
Here are the exact same settings I personally use and have found me over 1000 silver coins in the last 6 years doing so
Another point I would add is that I do 90% of my hunting at the same parks and public sites as everyone else does in the IL/St. Louis area...so I know for a fact that the settings DO produce well at heavily pounded sites.
I also have very specific reasons for each of the settings I recommend...but at this point it might be a little overwhelming so no need for me to list them.
Conductive sounds
Gain-10
variability-10
Limits-10
Max limits-10
Fast-Off
Deep-Off
Sensitivity-Semi auto 26 (Manual 26 if the ground is clean enough)
Iron mask-6 on the EX2
Theshold barely audible
Evaerything else stock preset
The 3 keys for me which make these settings effective for deep park silver at "hunted out" sites are the following...
1) high gain which allows deep silver chirps to be heard
2) Semi auto sensitivity at 26 which makes the SE very stable while still running the high gain setting I prefer. Because of this..the SE has no problems hitting 8" to 10" coins. If the ground is clean and you don't seem to get the depth you need.....give manual 26 a shot.
3) Iron mask set at -6. this is a precise setting for me that I never vary from. 1 setting higher....and deep iron starts to mimick deep silver hits...hence some falsing. Also at this -6 setting... I have no problems hitting the same 8" to 10" deep coins even while the SE may be nulling....which is very important.
IMPORTANT: Please be aware you will hear some falsing and it will be up to you to discern between falsing and deep coin hits. The semi auto sensitivity does control the falsing quite a bit...but you might still hear some.
IMPORTANT: Please have the confidence to know that if you are going slow enough through iron...that your machine will still let a nice deep coin hit signal through the nulls.
Here is a link to a post to explain why I have the settings of FAST and DEEP both turned off on the EX2:
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,1793316,1793406#msg-1793406
IMHO....LEAVE it in the factory preset conductive sounds settings.. while hunting in the smartfind screen for at least 5 to 10 full hunts.
Don't mess with anything for some time. Those preset settings are there for a reaon...and that reason is to help new users adapt to the language the SE speaks.
IMHO the worst thing a new explorer user can do is switch anything at all...especially switch back and forth between conductive and ferrous sounds.
That will completely change what you hear and how you hear it over deep coins....and probably confuse you at this point.
Take your time...swing very slow...and do NOT worry about anybody's settings right now. There is a crucial time frame where you have to spend some quality time with your new friend...the SE...and nobody else. That time is the first few hunts.
Pay close attention to the barrage of sounds you hear...the nulling...the instability...etc...and don't get frustrated.
ONLY 2 things I would even consider changing from the stock factory learning settings which is pretty much a coin program....
1) possibly set the iron mask at -6 on the EX2 while continuing to hunt in smartfind screen.
2) The only other thing I would consider changing would be to put the sensitivity in semi auto and set it at 26 which will GREATLY cut down on the falsing and chirping..
Both of those change suggestions do not even need to be made IMHO...but if you must tinker...then tinker with only those two things.
Everything else....I strongly recomend leaving alone for a few weeks...and leaving it in the factory preset settings.
Do NOT try too much too fast...just have FUN.
These Explorers are more than capable of hitting 8"+ deep coins right out of the box in the factory preset mode.
Once you have quite a few hours on it...and have familiarized yourself with the "language" it speaks...then you can start to piddle with settings if need be.
You might even decide at that point that you want to give ferrous sounds/AM a shot. That is a proven method as well.
For now though...trust me...leave it as I suggested for a few hunts...then when things start to click a little...you can start piddling and tinkering
Of all the things I get asked about through messages...this is the number one thing...and my advice never changes.
I think it's a big mistake for new users to get caught up in what other's settings are and they try too much too fast...then get discouraged and sell the Explorer.
Just take your time...enjoy...and get a "feel" for the explorer before taking big leaps...and the learning curve will lessen a bunch.
After a few weeks or 5 to 10 full hunts...whichever comes first....then start pickin' the brains of everyone on this forum for tips...suggestions...advice...settings to try...etc. This place is a wealth of knowledge and there a ton of talented hunters here who will help you in whatever way you need.
After that initial learning time period I would then recommend trying some different settings if need be...and I'll provide mine below:
Here are the exact same settings I personally use and have found me over 1000 silver coins in the last 6 years doing so
Another point I would add is that I do 90% of my hunting at the same parks and public sites as everyone else does in the IL/St. Louis area...so I know for a fact that the settings DO produce well at heavily pounded sites.
I also have very specific reasons for each of the settings I recommend...but at this point it might be a little overwhelming so no need for me to list them.
Conductive sounds
Gain-10
variability-10
Limits-10
Max limits-10
Fast-Off
Deep-Off
Sensitivity-Semi auto 26 (Manual 26 if the ground is clean enough)
Iron mask-6 on the EX2
Theshold barely audible
Evaerything else stock preset
The 3 keys for me which make these settings effective for deep park silver at "hunted out" sites are the following...
1) high gain which allows deep silver chirps to be heard
2) Semi auto sensitivity at 26 which makes the SE very stable while still running the high gain setting I prefer. Because of this..the SE has no problems hitting 8" to 10" coins. If the ground is clean and you don't seem to get the depth you need.....give manual 26 a shot.
3) Iron mask set at -6. this is a precise setting for me that I never vary from. 1 setting higher....and deep iron starts to mimick deep silver hits...hence some falsing. Also at this -6 setting... I have no problems hitting the same 8" to 10" deep coins even while the SE may be nulling....which is very important.
IMPORTANT: Please be aware you will hear some falsing and it will be up to you to discern between falsing and deep coin hits. The semi auto sensitivity does control the falsing quite a bit...but you might still hear some.
IMPORTANT: Please have the confidence to know that if you are going slow enough through iron...that your machine will still let a nice deep coin hit signal through the nulls.
Here is a link to a post to explain why I have the settings of FAST and DEEP both turned off on the EX2:
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?19,1793316,1793406#msg-1793406