Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

Digging jumpy ID's on CZ-70

KurtB

Member
Do any of you dig signals that jump from coin to relic? I have dug a ton of them and haven't found anything but junk. I have not had any deep signals do this. Has anyone had any good finds digging solid relic signals? Seems all my good finds have locked solid in the upper scale.

Thanks and good luck hunting.

KurB
 
KurtB,
Please read, if not already, Thomas Dankowski's Fisher Intelligence articles regarding the CZ-70, relic signals and Advanced Hunting Techniques. I used to live in an 1894 farmhouse. In my front yard, I dug a sold relic signal-turned out to be a silver war nickel. In my next door neighbor's 1883 house yard, got a solid deep relic signal over 4 inches that I almost didn't dig- a nice 1864 IH. I would definitely dig all deep relic signals-you never know what it might be. A CZ-3D eliminates a lot of the quesswork however, pulling many good midtone targets to high coin where many of the good CZ-70 relic targets fall. Old nickels-V, buffalo, etc bounce between foil and nickel. Indians can bounce all over. After a while, when you really trust what the CZ-70 is telling you, you just about know when it's something good from the bounce and sizing the target with response and pinpoint. JMHO...HH
 
penny, dime, nickel or other combinations. Something Thomas Dankowski really stresses in his articles is how the condition of the coin along with the ground mineraliztion can affect how the machine determines the conductivity/icon for each target which may lead to some bouncing...all a part of the very interesting learning process...HH
 
How long have you had a 3D? How do like it? I love the 70 and won't get rid of it but I would like to here your thoughts on the 3D. Sounds like a good machine.

Thanks again.

KurtB
 
Basically its telling you it can't decide and could be a nice token, gold coin, oddball coins such a two cent piece, three cent piece, 1/2 dime, indian head pennies and of course badly worn coins, coins next to junk or for that matter multiple coins in one hole..I dig them all.
Now when you get a foil-nickle bounce its a digger every time as it could be a nice gold ring with an expensive stone..I really don't get that may bouncers but if its bounces my digger comes out of the pouch...
 
KurtB,
I've had a 3D since it came out, about 5 as a matter of fact,just to prove to myself that not all 3D's are created equal from the Fisher factory-I still have two along with two CZ-70's. Some hit nickels as it was designed, others don't. Some are scary good in iron, belive it or not, compared to most others machines AND deep. Some don't care for the 3D, others who have a good machine and good ground know it's abilities. I really think that if you hunt with a CZ-70 and don't typically dig all the midtones, then you should hit the same site over again with a 3D. I've pulled some nice old coins and buttons with it after a CZ-70 since there were just so many midtones at the really old sites I hunt-just call me lazy since I didn't dig them all. I wouldn't recommend getting rid of a good CZ-70 since it's so easy to use, excellent depth,along with being rather stable around powerlines. The 3D is more sensitive around the powerlines; you just have to turn the sensitivity down to make it stable. If you're a CZ main user, then I would try a 3D-used ones are very reasonable.

Here's a post with a super 3D I had on the Findmall Forum if you're interested-all 3D finds in less than 2 hours :)

Nice CZ-3D Outing Today at an 1828 Farmhouse with a Pocket Change Surprise
Posted by: christopher-ohio <Send a PM> (IP Logged)
Posts: 101
Date: September 08, 2006 06:26PM

[attachment 45603 2006_0908Image0057.JPG]

Hope this helps...JMHO...HH
 
the newer ones that is. I have never been able to find one of the newer ones that work as well around iron as the older white rod low serial number units. Buying a new CZ is too much like playng the lottery. Christopher if you got 2 or 3 good ones out of 5 you did well. Proper tuning at the factory is critical to good operation. Fisher either lost their good people or changed the tuning process a few years back. Its too darn bad because as you know a good CZ is hard to beat.

Tom
 
Kurt,
Probably not unless you're an electrical engineer or have Fisher connections. I know Thomas Dankowski does it-that's how the CZ-70 and 3D came about. I'm told that there are about 15 different adjustments to make unlike a Minelab Explorer which has a card that can't be adjusted I've read somewhere in posts. I've thought about trying it but then decided against it since the machines are sealed around the edges which has to be re-done to make them water-resistant. I'm sure there's even more to it than that and someone out there could expound much further...HH
 
I've dug a lot of beer can pieces with a CZ 70 when I notched everything out except coins. The reading was hi coin & it turned out to be a piece of can. When I notched relic back in it didn't show anything. How come?
 
Top