Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

CZ3D

harryo

New member
HI What is the difference between the old cz3d and the new ones? Read about the low number machines and want to know if the new ones built are as good. Thanks
 
Same machine different serial numbers..I have used both and again same machine..Rumor or fact info was being circulated that older ones were supertuned which was in most cases fiction although all CZ's are not equal in depth and do vary a tad due to tuning...My info is get a pre 1983 penny and air test it and should get a ballpark of 9 inches in depth and understand thats how they are tested for depth..Of course use all the presets and sens. of 4....
 
HI What is the difference between the old cz3d and the new ones? Read about the low number machines and want to know if the new ones built are as good. Thanks

I think youll dig just as many deep nails and pepsi caps no matter what cz you get
 
One would feel a unit is only as good as the operator and to help Google Mikes CZ page as it has lots of CZ info and may help you defeat the problems your having as there are ways to cut down digging those blasted rusty deep nails and bottle caps...and get that deep silver...
 
Yeah, ive been to that page many many times, but ive dug 7 large cents this year all at the 6-8 inch mark and they all bounced from iron to highcoin in all directions, the only reason I dug these were because it was an old foundation site and my pouch was empty, one was a 1806 half cent. All im saying is it gets quite agrivating when a solid highcoin at 6+ inches turns out to be a half inch rusted head of a nail. Nothing is worse than spending 20 mins chopping thru roots on a good signal just to find out it was a nail or a pepsi cap. Nails are iron, so they should come in as iron. After digging large cents that bounce on iron i just dig every high tone that comes in at 6+ inches but only if i hear that tone in all directions. if i get a one way? it stays in the ground. Yes, im sure the user has a deffinate factor in what is and what is not found, but I think my finds tell me im doing something right. in one year I managed 19 large cents, 24 mercs, 16 barber dimes, 5 halves(3walkers 1 barber 1 seated) a belt plate, a breast plate, over 50 crotal and pedal bells, and the list goes on, forgot to mention quarters, many many quarters were dug also oldest being a 1906 barb. if you guys want pictures? just let me know.

For the record? after digging out a 5 - 6 inch plug all the large cent hits went strieght to high coin with no iron, and ive found that many nails do that also. mainly the heads of nails and those nail type staples.
 
Make sure your target repeats from at least two directions, Shallow ones may repeat from 4 but deep ones has to repeat from two or I let it lie. Also if the pinpoint seems to move while your digging another sign its rusty iron.After using one for years the audio even seems more screechy not mellow like a silver coin but takes time to notice audio differences. As far as the Pepsi Top they just seem to cover a larger area. No 100 percent way but one can cut down the odds as we all get fooled now and then. Above all no one is saying you are not a competent detectorist but just think if you didn't dig all those deep rusty nails think of the extra coins in your pouch..Appreciate your input as we are all learning...
 
The main difference is that the older machines had lower serial numbers and the newer machines have higher serial numbers. That's about it. Don't believe that other crap.
 
"With the CZ3D I recomend you run in Salt with zero disc and listen to all tones for if you do not you will miss the real deep coins I guarantee it"

Tip:
Heads up, the CZ3d will detect far deeper than it will ID, low iron sounds can be 10 inch dimes.

If on a low tone you get a high tone in "Salt" in one direction dig it. (This and all below with my recomended settings)

Now I am not talking about bangers I am talking those nice low volume sounds that you know are real deep targets.

Large cents laying at an angle will read all over and IH will do the same and also iron near the target like old home sites will cause this a lot.

One thing you have got to do when hunting with the CZ3D is dig iron and yes nails, if you do not dig nails you will miss the good deep coins.

Also dig all tinfoil as 80% of all gold jewelry is in that ID range.

If you just do not want to dig nails then get the Minelab Sovereign GT and run low disc on both channels, it is not a good ID machine but it will do great at telling you the none ferrous targets which is the reason they are so well liked by the relic hunters.
Hope this helps!
 
Actually about one third of gold rings come in at foil and may vary plus or minus a tad. 80 percent is much too high.

As far as Sov's in learned hands with stock meter give excellent ID numbers and silver coins give a more mellow audio...
 
Top