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cz20

William

New member
I would like to know if my cz20 is working like it should, so can someone give me an idea of the air test of the cz20 on different coins, rings what ever so I will get an idea. Thanks William
 
Is it falsing like crazy, or something else?

HH from Allen in MI
 
Well I am not real familiar with the cz20, I also have a cz6 and it seems to be more sensitive than the cz 20. I would like a better comparison or test if there is one. I am just starting to get use to the cz6, I am not sure if the cz6 is preforming as well as it should. Thanks William
 
Take both detectors out with you. Find a nice clean patch of ground with no trash. GB both units, one at a time (they will cross-talk with each other when you get about 30' apart or closer). Throw down a wide selection of targets, like coins, various jewelry (if you have it), pulltabs, pullrings, foil, screws, nails, bottlecaps, screwcaps, etc. Scan all targets with both detectors. Coins should come in on the meter or your CZ-6 in their respective slots, as will the pulltabs and foil. Nails give weird signals, and often give a high-coin chirp along with an iron tone. Broken pulltabs often come in as a nickel (Nickels are actually below tabs and above foil on the order of conductivity). Bottlecaps will bounce Iron/Nickel/Tab. Screwcaps will bounce Zinc/High Coin. Round iron objects, like large washers, give really strange signals. Silver ring, as long as they are intact, will read High Coin. Broken Silver rings often register as pulltabs. Gold rings, depending on shape, size, and karat, can register all over the meter.

There's no meter non a CZ-20, so you just have to go with the sounds.

If you're fairly new to both detectors, I'd suggest learning the unit in an environment that's easy to dig in, like playground sandpits/woodchip pits, or the dry sand at a beach. Once you figure the tones out, and learn what to expect on sensitivity, go ahead and start hunting grassy areas with the CZ-6, and try getting in the water with the 20. Also, you can expect a little increase in depth when hunting wet salt sand, due to the increased conductivity of wet salt sand.

BTW, have you ever water hunted before? Hunting in water, with little or no visibility, takes a lot of practice before you can start recovering targets easily. I've been doing it for four years, and even I can't get the target on the first scoop all the time.

HH from Allen in MI
 
Thanks Allen I will give these machines a work out. I have hunted some in fresh and salt water but mostly on land. The cz 20 has a 10.5" coil and the cz6 has a 8", maybe some difference there. Thanks William
 
You should notice a difference in where they GB at. Especially if you're testing them both on dry land. Remember, the 20 is locked into SALT mode, and that changes the GB range. Also, the bigger coil "sees" more mineralization in the same dirt than the 8" coil does. This will also affect where the GB knobs goes.

HH from Allen in MI
 
Far as I am concerned there are two ways to set that CZ 20. Set it to Disc "0", Audio to boost, Ground balance by "Bobbing" and start with the sensitivity about midrange. Adjust sensitivity up or down till few false signals are present. This will get the deepest target with a strong audio.

My other choice is to hunt in Auto Tune mode. Set sensitivity at near max and audio about mid level. Listen for good peaks in the signal. You will lear to tell the difference in target with practice. Hot rocks have a rather flat peak, Iron is flatter than a coin or ring. The peaks tell the story once your ear is calibrated to the machine. I always begin hunting in this mode and switch to the Disc "0" setting when my ears get dull from long hours of hunting.

Don't swing too fast in Disc mode. Hunt much slower than in Auto Tune. My hearing is slightly impaired and I can get the deeper targets clearly with the Audio boost way up. Problem is that deep targets and shallow ones sound about the same. I frequently turn the dics knob to Auto Tune once I have decided I have a good target. I never use the pin point function. It gives way too broad a signal for my taste. I either stay in Disc or switch to Auto Tune to locate the target.
 
Only I do that in reverse. On clean beaches, I usually hunt in Auto-tune, then flip to 0 Disc to ID the target. A few of my beaches are junky, so I'll go to 0 Disc as my main search mode there.

I've never described the qualities of the sound of a good coin hit in Auto-tune quite like you did, but you did a good job of it. I can almost always tell when I have a deep coin, as compared to a deep nail, in Auto-tune with either of my CZ's.
 
Allen gave some good advice. I have two CZ 20's, one with 8 inch coil and the other with 10.5 inch. I set them up very similar but the performance is very different between the two. The 10.5 inch is great for large expanses of fairly clean sand. It will not GB in some areas I hunt but the 8 inch coil will. The small coil gets just about as deep, i can't really tell the difference except on an air test. In the field I sometimes think the 8 inch has the advantage. The 8 inch coil will run circles around the 10.5 in highly mineralized or trashy areas. My advice is to use your machines all you can and gain the experience for yourself. You have one of the best machines available. Now you will learn that it is 85% operator and 15 % machine that recovers the goods.
 
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