sailormancga72
New member
I just got my hands on a CZ20. This is my first metal detector. Is there a DVD or book that specifically addresses the CZ20?
Steve
Steve
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CZ20 Training
- Thread starter sailormancga72
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
First, you need to learn the detector. If I was in your area, I'd jump right up and show you.
If your CZ came with a manual, read it thoroughly a few times. Practice with the detector, then read the manual again.
Basically, you first need to learn to accurately ground-balance (GB) the detector. The manual lists two methods, the "push-button" method using the pinpoint button, and the "bobbing" method. Of the two, "bobbing" is more accurate. It's been so long since I used the pushbutton method, that I can't remember how to do it. For the Bobbing method, set your Sens. to 10, GB to 5, Discrimination to "Auto-Tune" (a.k.a. All-metal mode), then, flip the volume/power knob up to about 5. Scan the ground around your feet to find a spot that's free of metal. If you're in a trashy area, this may take awhile. Once you've found an area with no metal for a few feet, put your coil in the center of that spot. Start raising and lowering the coil up to about 6" and back down several times.
While you are doing this, LISTEN! You should hear some kind of sound. If the sound starts soft and low, and gets louder and higher-pitched as your coil approaches the ground, your detector is tuned positively. You'll need to turn the GB knob clockwise, towards a lower number.
If, when bobbing, the sound hits loud and high, then fades in both volume and pitch, then your detector is tuned negatively. You'll need to turn the GB knob counter-clockwise, or towards a higher number.
Your goal is to achieve no change in sound on the up- or down-stroke as you're "bobbing" the coil. When you have achieved that, your detector is tuned to that patch of ground. Remember, that it's not the "number" you hit when you GB, but the "area" of arc that your GB can travel before you get a change in pitch that indicates how mineralized the dirt is. Up here in MI, there is A LOT of iron mineralization. As a result, I have to be very careful about my GB'ing. In some areas of the country, the dirt isn't as bad, and you get a noticable "zone" where you can move the GB knob and not get any change in pitch while bobbing. In Florida, the ground is so mild that you can't really GB at all, so most people either set it at 10 or at 1 (big debate there amongst some folks), and then they start hunting.
Once you've achieved a good GB, turn your Sens. down to where the unit is stable, around 4 - 6, depending on ground and RFI. You can hunt in Auto-tune, or flip down to 0 Disc. to get all the tones. I recommend learning to hunt in BOTH modes, IMHO, as hunting in Auto-tune gives a little better coverage, then flip to 0 Disc. to ID a target once you get it. This takes time to learn.
Since you've never used a detector before, much less a CZ, I recommend that you start out in kiddie playgrounds or dry sand beaches, where the digging is easy, until you learn the tones. Once you get that down, venture into the water.
Some other equipment you'll probably want:
-A suitable belt to hipmount the CZ-20 control-box. That sucker's heavy. In the water is not so bad, as it floats, but dry-land hunting will kill your arm. Your 20 should have came with a belt-mount clip. Just slide the clip onto a suitable belt (I use a 1" woven nylon utility strap with a quick-release buckle on land and in the water), put the belt on, then slide the control-box off the stem and onto your clip. You'll need to unwind most of the coil cable so you can move freely.
-Something to put the goodies in. On dry land, I usually use a cheap Nail apron from the Home Depot. In the water, I have a small nylon mesh bag with belt loops and a velcro closure. This allows sand and water to drain from the goodies, while the velcro keeps the bag closed in case I take a boat wake or step in a hole.
-Dry sand recoveries need a scoop with wire mesh. There are several types out there, made of different metals. I have one that's got a 28" handle and a 5" bucket with galvanized steel mesh. Since I'm nowhere near saltwater, this works great in sandpit playgrounds and dry sand beaches, as I don't have to constantly stoop and bend over to retrieve the target. Some scoops like this are smaller, requiring you to bend down.
-Wood chip playgounds are a little different. I've found that a small plastic hand rake from a gardening store or garden department works really good.
-IMHO, pea-gravel playgrounds aren't worth the effort. Targets don't sink into the gravel, so they're visible, and they make a sound when they hit, so the kids will know something dropped.
-Wet sand retrieval requires a very sturdy tool, as the wet sand is VERY heavy. A strong shovel, or one of the big "water scoops" is needed. A "Water scoop" is a big bucket, made from either aluminum, stainless steel, or plain steel, with holes drilled into it, mounted on a long pole. The holes allow the water to drain and wash away the sand/mud/gravel/muck. Using a scoop like this in Wet sand is an art, as the sand doesn't wash out, and is very hard to shake out.
-Water recoveries need either a "Water scoop", or a method known as "fanning". Fanners wear a mask, sometimes a snorkel, maybe even fins, and when they find a target, will drop down to the bottom and gently fan the sand away, revealing the target. This requires clear water, and possible a water-proof pinpointer (on small or heavily encrusted targets) like a Vibra-probe 560. Some people fan with their hands, some use a cheap ping-pong paddle.
Hunting in the water isn't all that hard, but, pinpointing and target retrieval can be a chore (unless you're a "fanner"). I find it best, when I detect a target, to forget the pinpoint button (drains the batteries quickly, although 4 9v batt's last awhile). I start by scanning the target left-to-right and back again, slowly decreasing the amount of distance traveled in each swing until I can't move but a quarter-inch or so without my CZ sounding off. Then, I move the coil front-to-back, repeating the same pattern of decreasing the distance traveled. When I can't move the coil more than a quarter-inch in ANY direction without the detector sounding off, I like to think that I have the target "bracketed", or pinpointed. PLANT THE COIL ON THE BOTTOM DIRECTLY OVER THE TARGET. If it's shallow, it may give the bell-tone as it overloads the coil. Don't worry about that, it's a good sign. Slowly slide your left foot forward until it touches the coil. Plant your left foot firmly on the bottom. Remove the coil. Place your scoop on top of your foot, angled down, so that the point of the scoop is just touching the sand in front of your toes. Holding the scoop in place, remove your foot, and using that foot, push the scoop down into the sand AND forwards at the same time. Lever back on the scoop to pry the sand/gravel/mud/muck/whatever up and into the bucket. Raise the bucket to the surface, then swing it away. Scan the target zone again to see if you got it. Even if there is a target, I like to shake and filter what's in the bucket, as I've found many coin and jewelry spills in the water (folks doing handstands with coins in their pockets, I'll never understand it).
Some folks build a floating sifter with wood, 1/2" or 1/4" hardware cloth, and a "noodle" that the kids use. I have several sifters at home, mainly for garden work, and I'm thinking about making one into a floating sifter for water hunting, as many of my areas have a lot of gravel and/or shells, and a sifter makes it easier to spread the bucketfull of "stuff" out and drain for easier recovery.
HH from Allen in MI
If your CZ came with a manual, read it thoroughly a few times. Practice with the detector, then read the manual again.
Basically, you first need to learn to accurately ground-balance (GB) the detector. The manual lists two methods, the "push-button" method using the pinpoint button, and the "bobbing" method. Of the two, "bobbing" is more accurate. It's been so long since I used the pushbutton method, that I can't remember how to do it. For the Bobbing method, set your Sens. to 10, GB to 5, Discrimination to "Auto-Tune" (a.k.a. All-metal mode), then, flip the volume/power knob up to about 5. Scan the ground around your feet to find a spot that's free of metal. If you're in a trashy area, this may take awhile. Once you've found an area with no metal for a few feet, put your coil in the center of that spot. Start raising and lowering the coil up to about 6" and back down several times.
While you are doing this, LISTEN! You should hear some kind of sound. If the sound starts soft and low, and gets louder and higher-pitched as your coil approaches the ground, your detector is tuned positively. You'll need to turn the GB knob clockwise, towards a lower number.
If, when bobbing, the sound hits loud and high, then fades in both volume and pitch, then your detector is tuned negatively. You'll need to turn the GB knob counter-clockwise, or towards a higher number.
Your goal is to achieve no change in sound on the up- or down-stroke as you're "bobbing" the coil. When you have achieved that, your detector is tuned to that patch of ground. Remember, that it's not the "number" you hit when you GB, but the "area" of arc that your GB can travel before you get a change in pitch that indicates how mineralized the dirt is. Up here in MI, there is A LOT of iron mineralization. As a result, I have to be very careful about my GB'ing. In some areas of the country, the dirt isn't as bad, and you get a noticable "zone" where you can move the GB knob and not get any change in pitch while bobbing. In Florida, the ground is so mild that you can't really GB at all, so most people either set it at 10 or at 1 (big debate there amongst some folks), and then they start hunting.
Once you've achieved a good GB, turn your Sens. down to where the unit is stable, around 4 - 6, depending on ground and RFI. You can hunt in Auto-tune, or flip down to 0 Disc. to get all the tones. I recommend learning to hunt in BOTH modes, IMHO, as hunting in Auto-tune gives a little better coverage, then flip to 0 Disc. to ID a target once you get it. This takes time to learn.
Since you've never used a detector before, much less a CZ, I recommend that you start out in kiddie playgrounds or dry sand beaches, where the digging is easy, until you learn the tones. Once you get that down, venture into the water.
Some other equipment you'll probably want:
-A suitable belt to hipmount the CZ-20 control-box. That sucker's heavy. In the water is not so bad, as it floats, but dry-land hunting will kill your arm. Your 20 should have came with a belt-mount clip. Just slide the clip onto a suitable belt (I use a 1" woven nylon utility strap with a quick-release buckle on land and in the water), put the belt on, then slide the control-box off the stem and onto your clip. You'll need to unwind most of the coil cable so you can move freely.
-Something to put the goodies in. On dry land, I usually use a cheap Nail apron from the Home Depot. In the water, I have a small nylon mesh bag with belt loops and a velcro closure. This allows sand and water to drain from the goodies, while the velcro keeps the bag closed in case I take a boat wake or step in a hole.
-Dry sand recoveries need a scoop with wire mesh. There are several types out there, made of different metals. I have one that's got a 28" handle and a 5" bucket with galvanized steel mesh. Since I'm nowhere near saltwater, this works great in sandpit playgrounds and dry sand beaches, as I don't have to constantly stoop and bend over to retrieve the target. Some scoops like this are smaller, requiring you to bend down.
-Wood chip playgounds are a little different. I've found that a small plastic hand rake from a gardening store or garden department works really good.
-IMHO, pea-gravel playgrounds aren't worth the effort. Targets don't sink into the gravel, so they're visible, and they make a sound when they hit, so the kids will know something dropped.
-Wet sand retrieval requires a very sturdy tool, as the wet sand is VERY heavy. A strong shovel, or one of the big "water scoops" is needed. A "Water scoop" is a big bucket, made from either aluminum, stainless steel, or plain steel, with holes drilled into it, mounted on a long pole. The holes allow the water to drain and wash away the sand/mud/gravel/muck. Using a scoop like this in Wet sand is an art, as the sand doesn't wash out, and is very hard to shake out.
-Water recoveries need either a "Water scoop", or a method known as "fanning". Fanners wear a mask, sometimes a snorkel, maybe even fins, and when they find a target, will drop down to the bottom and gently fan the sand away, revealing the target. This requires clear water, and possible a water-proof pinpointer (on small or heavily encrusted targets) like a Vibra-probe 560. Some people fan with their hands, some use a cheap ping-pong paddle.
Hunting in the water isn't all that hard, but, pinpointing and target retrieval can be a chore (unless you're a "fanner"). I find it best, when I detect a target, to forget the pinpoint button (drains the batteries quickly, although 4 9v batt's last awhile). I start by scanning the target left-to-right and back again, slowly decreasing the amount of distance traveled in each swing until I can't move but a quarter-inch or so without my CZ sounding off. Then, I move the coil front-to-back, repeating the same pattern of decreasing the distance traveled. When I can't move the coil more than a quarter-inch in ANY direction without the detector sounding off, I like to think that I have the target "bracketed", or pinpointed. PLANT THE COIL ON THE BOTTOM DIRECTLY OVER THE TARGET. If it's shallow, it may give the bell-tone as it overloads the coil. Don't worry about that, it's a good sign. Slowly slide your left foot forward until it touches the coil. Plant your left foot firmly on the bottom. Remove the coil. Place your scoop on top of your foot, angled down, so that the point of the scoop is just touching the sand in front of your toes. Holding the scoop in place, remove your foot, and using that foot, push the scoop down into the sand AND forwards at the same time. Lever back on the scoop to pry the sand/gravel/mud/muck/whatever up and into the bucket. Raise the bucket to the surface, then swing it away. Scan the target zone again to see if you got it. Even if there is a target, I like to shake and filter what's in the bucket, as I've found many coin and jewelry spills in the water (folks doing handstands with coins in their pockets, I'll never understand it).
Some folks build a floating sifter with wood, 1/2" or 1/4" hardware cloth, and a "noodle" that the kids use. I have several sifters at home, mainly for garden work, and I'm thinking about making one into a floating sifter for water hunting, as many of my areas have a lot of gravel and/or shells, and a sifter makes it easier to spread the bucketfull of "stuff" out and drain for easier recovery.
HH from Allen in MI
sailormancga72
New member
n/t
A
Anonymous
Guest
My CZ-20 paid for itself the first summer I had it. Now, my other half doesn't mind as much when I "sneak out" during the summer, as she knows I'm headed for a lake, and she's developed a taste for gold.
HH from Allen in MI
HH from Allen in MI
Lee - MI - MI
New member
Excellent review. Thanks Allen.
I live N. of you in Midland. I have had my CZ-20 for one summer now and still have a hard time using it. I don't know if it is because some of the beaches I go to are just impossible for the CZ or if I am doing something wrong. Probably GB. Yes, I do the BOB. Maybe something wrong with the CZ?
I have done some rivers where it was impossible to use. Was it me, the CZ or the terrain? I really do not know.
Here is a challenge for any/all CZ-20 users in lower MI. What would be the chance of all meeting at some lake for some mentoring and tutoring while enjoying a beach hunt? We could make it a camping weekend and those that do not camp could make it as a day trip.
I am sure we could all learn something. Some, like me, more than others.
I live N. of you in Midland. I have had my CZ-20 for one summer now and still have a hard time using it. I don't know if it is because some of the beaches I go to are just impossible for the CZ or if I am doing something wrong. Probably GB. Yes, I do the BOB. Maybe something wrong with the CZ?
I have done some rivers where it was impossible to use. Was it me, the CZ or the terrain? I really do not know.
Here is a challenge for any/all CZ-20 users in lower MI. What would be the chance of all meeting at some lake for some mentoring and tutoring while enjoying a beach hunt? We could make it a camping weekend and those that do not camp could make it as a day trip.
I am sure we could all learn something. Some, like me, more than others.
A
Anonymous
Guest
due to my limited budget, I can't travel to far. On the other hand, many of the beaches around here are experiencing increased hunting pressure, so a different beach might be viable.
One problem I can see with this, is describing exactly what certain sounds are like. The only way I know to do this is to use a "Y" splitter to hook up two sets of headphones, which you can't do with a 20. However, I am willing to do that with my CZ-5.
Are your beaches really loaded with iron, or hot rocks? I have a couple beaches here that I don't really hunt much, because they're loaded with iron. Sometimes I find a negative hot rock on land with my CZ-5, and they'll throw me for a loop in 0 Disc. until I realize what's going on, flip over to Auto-Tune, and then hear that funky signal. A beach full of negative hot rocks would be rather daunting, like hunting my local torn-up sidewalks or a railroad bed, which were all paved with coal clinkers.
HH from Allen in MI
One problem I can see with this, is describing exactly what certain sounds are like. The only way I know to do this is to use a "Y" splitter to hook up two sets of headphones, which you can't do with a 20. However, I am willing to do that with my CZ-5.
Are your beaches really loaded with iron, or hot rocks? I have a couple beaches here that I don't really hunt much, because they're loaded with iron. Sometimes I find a negative hot rock on land with my CZ-5, and they'll throw me for a loop in 0 Disc. until I realize what's going on, flip over to Auto-Tune, and then hear that funky signal. A beach full of negative hot rocks would be rather daunting, like hunting my local torn-up sidewalks or a railroad bed, which were all paved with coal clinkers.
HH from Allen in MI
Lee - MI - MI
New member
On one beach it worked well as long as I was in water about 75 yards from shore. When I got closer to shore it started gong bonkers. I thought something was wrong with it. Kept getting false hits. For some reason I went back out and it quieted right down again.
Since then I see that it just does not want to work is some areas. I do not know if I am doing something wrong or if the CZ just will not work in some areas. Does high iron in an area overwhelm it? I do not have enough experience with it to tell.
Since then I see that it just does not want to work is some areas. I do not know if I am doing something wrong or if the CZ just will not work in some areas. Does high iron in an area overwhelm it? I do not have enough experience with it to tell.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Lots of iron, especially if you use the big loop, like I do, will make detecting interesting. If you're using Auto-tune, and get both positive and negative hits, then you've got a lot of hot rocks.
If it's just iron, you might want to try tying a strong "super-magnet" to a strong piece of rope, and drag that behind you as you hunt. I've never tried that, as I can't find a magnet strong enough locally. Also, I kind of get worried about getting hung up on something and not being able to dislodge the magnet.
HH from Allen in MI
If it's just iron, you might want to try tying a strong "super-magnet" to a strong piece of rope, and drag that behind you as you hunt. I've never tried that, as I can't find a magnet strong enough locally. Also, I kind of get worried about getting hung up on something and not being able to dislodge the magnet.
HH from Allen in MI
Lee - MI - MI
New member
I usually have the disc at 1. I have the 10" coil too. I have been wondering if that is why it may be so sensitive to iron - If that is what my problem really is.
Why drag the magnet? Would you be trying to pick up the iron trash? At a (great) lake I don't think it would pull through very much sand. In a river the stuff would be under all the rocks. Don't expect much there either.
Why drag the magnet? Would you be trying to pick up the iron trash? At a (great) lake I don't think it would pull through very much sand. In a river the stuff would be under all the rocks. Don't expect much there either.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Like I said, I haven't tried it yet, but I would imagine the magnet would come up covered in black gunk (iron fillings and black sand), and it should have the shallow iron that's just barely under the sand. Not sure about deeper targets. You might even get some Canadian coins that way.
I've got a couple beaches that are littered with bottlecaps, and I've been wanting to do this to clear some of them.
HH from Allen in MI
I've got a couple beaches that are littered with bottlecaps, and I've been wanting to do this to clear some of them.
HH from Allen in MI
Tony from Tidewater
Member
Another happy Cz-20 user
kaptainkosmic
New member
I would be very interested.
When you said that you had less interference as you went deeper in the water, reminded me of a 1280x I once had. At a particular lake as long as I had the detector submerged it was fine, but if I brought it to the surface it falsed constantly, found out that a radio tower in the area was the culprit.---Wade