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CZ in iron

G

gmanlight

New member
I have used CZ 70s but mostly on the beach so i do not worry to much about iron.
I picked up a CZ 3D but have read you will dig lots of iron.
Well i had 2 hunts both in hi iron sites and so far it is not a big deal.
I have dug iron for testing ,but i was pretty sure it was iron before i dug it.
I dug a Indian in iron with my 12 in sun-ray coil . It sounded good enough and it was.
At a farm i dug several deep relics with iron in the hole with them.If that is as bad as it gets , i am good to go.:fisher:
 
I'm learning my new 3d and have read/heard the same things about "square nail magnet",,,, well we will see. I look at it like if someone dos'nt get the iron outta of the way we will never find the goodies underneath them. When you say " it sounded good enough" what do you mean? Did it give you some iron grunts along with the high tone or what?
 
What i mean by that is , even with iron there the Hi tone part sounded clean
and Tom Ds 50% rule .
If you can rotate your body more than 50% around the target and have a Hi tone its worth digging.
 
gmanlight said:
What i mean by that is , even with iron there the Hi tone part sounded clean
and Tom Ds 50% rule .
If you can rotate your body more than 50% around the target and have a Hi tone its worth digging.
Click to expand...

This rule is spot on...not 100% but follow it and your iron trash to treasure ratio will definitely improve. An iron nail...square or round...when laying horizontally will typically produce a low iron tone when passing the coil over the head of the nail and a high tone when passing the coil back over the point. When you rotated 180 degrees and swing your coil over the shank of the nail...a very narrow target...it'll almost always report as iron. That's what not to dig. When a coin, however, is not quite vertical but buried on sloped angle...it will sometimes report as iron on one axis but will report as a non-ferrous target on more than 180 degrees while rotating around the target. Another clue that you're digging a piece of iron trash is that the CZ will id high tone on large iron objects and will report a depth at let's say 6" - 8"....if you dig down that far and the target is beyond what is reported...it's usually junk. Also...when recovering a target that you've pinpointed with the coil and are using a hand held pinpointer....if the target reports off to one side it's frequently junk...but be careful...if the depth reading is accurate you may was commit yourself to retrievign the target just in case a co-located piece of iron is throwing things off.
 
I will try this out in the field next time,,,, can you post a link or PM me the link to that discussion of Tom D's your referring to?,,,, thanks
 
Couple of ways that work...if it won't repeat...move on...swing your coil over it fast and usually iron will break up, if the pinpoint seems to move when you dig a plug move on...As far as the nail
aspect being long one way and short the other doesn't always work as one never knows how its laying in the ground...Google Mikes CZ page as its a good read with lots of CZ tips...
 
how about the bobing method for PP,,,, what is that?
 
Dan-Pa said:
swing your coil over it fast and usually iron will break up
Click to expand...
Dan,
How fast? That is a technique I need to learn to add another piece of information from a CZ.

I normally can get iron of all but very small pieces to mostly stay high tone with a sweep of about half a second for 2 feet of coil movement and if I slow it way down to about 2 seconds for a 2 foot sweep, iron pretty much stays low tone; nearly always (although bottle caps can frequently fool me with a mid-tone bounce).

The walk around the target to see how much it stays a given tone or where it becomes a one way tone is a trick I learned to value with a CZ and later learned it is a useful technique with several other detectors too.
tvr
 
I have dug deep dimes with my cz5 by slowing my sweep down real slow and working around iron grunts. Just a hint of high tones repeating between the iron at a certain spot was a deep mercury dime mixed in with old square nails. It might take several slow sweeps to get the high tones to read, but
I have dug several dimes on edge this way.

Roger
 
grouser said:
how about the bobing method for PP,,,, what is that?
Click to expand...

PP does not utilize a bobbing method of any kind. I believe you're confusing PP and GB. Two entirely different processes.
 
JeffNS said:
grouser said:
how about the bobing method for PP,,,, what is that?
Click to expand...

PP does not utilize a bobbing method of any kind. I believe you're confusing PP and GB. Two entirely different processes.
Click to expand...
that is what I thought also when I read it,,, but now I don'tsee the post that I saw that info in,,,, or mayby I read it wrong,,,, I do bob for GB'ing
 
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