Find's Treasure Forums

Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!

You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.

Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.

Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.

Click here to register!



Need Support Help?

Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you

Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.

CZ-20 questions

Greg (E.Tn)

Well-known member
I am in the process of purchasing a CZ20 as a backup to my CZ-21, and as I understand it, one of the weak points of the CZ-21 is the rubber protector over the pinpoint button.

As a backhanded kind of pressure test, I took the CZ and immerse in about 12 feet of water and left it for several minutes with the machine turned on, pulled it back up and it was still working fine.

My question is, is there a "low tech" method of sealing or covering the pinpoint protector to seal it and hopefully prevent any future breach?

It goes without saying that the one I am trying to purchase will be without warrantly, and thus any future repairs will probably not be covered by the factory warrantly.

Any thoughts or advice on this will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
Scubadetector will probably jump on this with some advice...

A buddy of mine covered his CZ20 PP button with some silicone caulk, did an awful job, looks like hell, but since he never uses it anyway, who cares?.. I guess it would work better than nothing, except the rest of the PP mechanism rubber is in a pocket under the faceplate, so if it developed a leak under there, covering the visible button would accomplish nothing.. to do it right, a guy would have to remove the faceplate and caulk the whole area up good....DO NOT try to disassemble or otherwise mess with the main housing screws!! The faceplate is sort of glued on with some dabs of silicone caulk, and can be gently removed after you take off the knobs with a tiny allen wrench, paying close attention to the position of the knobs on the shafts, since the shafts are round, and have no easily discernible locating flats.. and slide a long thin blade knife up under the faceplate and sort of gently cut it loose...If you are just wading you will probably be fine, if you are diving great depths then maybe not, I have my CZ 20 in the Fisher shop right now getting converted over, had a bad coil and some other problems. I bought mine used for 400 bucks, it took a crap shortly thereafter, and now its costing me another 400 bucks to have it fixed! But, I suppose I will have a great machine for less than new, and might even be able to try some diving again...in summation, my buddy let me borrow HIS CZ 20, and I found some really nice gold and silver rings with it, so I'm just about close to even regarding my CZ20 experience.
Mud
 
Fisher / First Texas used to offer the option of sending it in to have the switch removed and the hole sealed. The issue was that if the detector did not meet factory full presure tests after doing that, it had to be upgraded to a CZ21. I have not talked to them in a while so don't know if the switch removal is still offered by the factory.
tvr
 
I'm primarily going to use this machine in shallow fresh water up to about 12' deep, so after the test I did on it, I am cautiously optimistic it will hold up.

Again, many thanks for the replies.

Greg
 
Top