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Custom Excal Shafts

Critterhunter

New member
I think I've maybe talked my friend into putting a straight shaft on his Excal. I don't want to build one with my carbon Whites Tall man rod because weight doesn't matter in the water. Just needs to be stiff. I seem to remember some of you guys throwing up pictures of Excals you built using a metal garden tool shaft from a home improvement store. He doesn't want the control box chest mounted. Just wants it under the arm at the back of the shaft so it will still fit inside his trunk. That's why he won't go for it on an extension behind the elbow for less drag that way. If you've got some pics and info please post it.

See, this is one of the reasons why I need to sort out links to various topics for stickies in this forum. I'm sure this has been covered a hundred times already but I'm too lazy to look.
 
Here is my custom excal shaft. I built it with 2 canes from Goodwill, 4" black PVC pipe, bicycle handgrip and some nylon bolts. It cost me ~$27. It's not pretty (needs aesthetic work) but it is functional. I like the fact that it will split into 3 "luggage size" pieces if I ever want to travel with it.[attachment 175560 IMG00057-20100910-0957-small.jpg]
 
If U will check I posted the pics and have sent out instructions how to make the straight shaft. I am away now and they are on the computer at home but I am sure some of the guys that I sent them 2 can post the instructions
 
Great looking machines. Thanks. That orange shaft in the picture above this message...Where did you get that and is it steel or aluminum? I take it you are using the lower rod from the original Excal too? I'd love to do this for him as a winter project. Don't want to buy a commercial shaft. Just something sturdy from a hardware store. Plan to use his stock lower shaft on it. That stock "S" shaft type deal is the worst balanced detector I've ever held. They already weigh a ton so balance is important. That looks like the setup I'll use for him. He doesn't want it extended above the elbow like that because he wants to fit it in his trunk without having to break anything down, so I figure slug on the shaft from the wrist to elbow area would be best, but it can't go past the arm cup to it'll fit in the trunk without breaking down.

DBSMokey, I see you have it mounted like I was talking and have the control box mounted sideways for easy access to the controls. I was thinking of doing that. Do you guys find that it's better to have the controls facing your hip or facing away from you? Better to flip the control box backwards if it's under your arm? Just not sure if I should flip it backwards and also if it should be mounted sideways or what. I'd have to hold the thing in my hand to figure all the mechanics of that stuff out and I don't have his machine with me yet.

Thanks for any input. Might just tell him to turn the machine over to me and I'll surprise him with what I come up with. My light weight GT shaft I built works fine in the water, but I prefer the ultra stiff stock shaft for my water hunts since weight doesn't matter then anyways. That's why I'll probably use the stock lower shaft from his Excal and something cheap but stiff for the upper shaft that I can buy at a local store. Any input on that? Well, come to think of it, I do have some window cleaning pole shaft left over from the light weight upper shaft I built for my GT that should work just fine. It's light but stiff as heck. A bike end bar will do for the grip. Mainly just trying to figure out the control box configuration- sideways and/or flipped backwards?

Keep the pics/ideas coming. I like to consider all configurations for ideas before deciding what I want to build.
 
If U use the 7/8 aluminum tube from aircraft spruce the ID will be .745 the lower Minelab shaft is .744 Use the correct tubing and the shaft still will run U under $30.00 and that is with high grade aircraft tubing not a paint pole from Home Depot. All the shafts are aluminum in the photos just different paint
 
here it is

U get the tube at Aircraftspruce.com get 6061t6 7/8 OD .745 ID 4 feet @ $3.20 per foot #03 36450.Your lower shaft will measure .744 which makes for a very nice fit requiring no lock nuts. Go to a bike shop and get the long bar ends with the bend $19.95 a pair and pick up a package of foam grip covers (4) for $9.95. Use your arm cuff off your old S rod and the pods for templates to drill the 1/4 holes. Use 1 3/4 x 1/2 SS bolts if U can find them otherwise get 2 inch and grind them down. Use SS wing nuts on the pods and a SS/nylon lock nut on the cuff. I usually remove about 6 inches from the 4 ft length so I can put much more lower up in the tube for more strength
If U don't use the tubing from Aircraft spruce all bets are off
 
Thanks for the info. Unger window Cleaning Poles extend to 12, 16, or 20+ feet (depends on which size you buy), and are meant to take heavy wheats (mop heads) and yet give rigitity (for precision squeege placement and control). Was in that trade enough years to know what the aluminum in these poles can handle. The inner extending rod is the same size as the upper shaft but much lighter and just as rigid. The Etorre poles are similar but I think they are a heavier guage aluminum than the Ungers. That's why I never used those and preffered the Ungers. These extention poles are handy to have on hand for painting, cleaning windows, changing light bulbs (have attachments you can buy to unscrew them), etc. The shaft I've got figured out. Upper shaft from a window cleaning pole, lower shaft from stock Excal. Stock arm cup. Just need to figure out control box placement. It's going under the arm but can not extend past the elbow so it will fit in his trunk. Mount it sideways? Flip it backwards? Still need input on that.
 
[size=large]Errik has some of the sharpest looking custom shafts around. Mine just work, someday when retired I may do a little paint or polish on them. I like the wide swing because I can adjust it to the conditions within a few seconds and it gives me a better chance at obtaining targets. the short shaft fits in the trunk very easy and I use it when I'm a ride along to conserve space. The long balanced, don't use anymore, but someday when they start to get heavy I may break it out. The travel is great just for that, and works best with the 800, though I do take the 1000 to places I'm not sure what I'm up against. Think total on all about 52 dollars, most supplies from ebay....Been thinking about titianum or carbon fiber down the road, since each are about 60% the weight of SS and about 80% of Aluminum, just have to set down and do the math and see if it's worth the extra cash for so little weight difference.....Good Luck on your Project.......I'm sure it will be top notch.......................................joe[/size]
 
"Just need to figure out control box placement. It's going under the arm but can not extend past the elbow so it will fit in his trunk. Mount it sideways? Flip it backwards? Still need input on that."

On the under cuff the electronics need to be put on either side of the rod otherwise your arm wouldn't go in, you can either mount it battery to the boddy or electronics to the body, in the latter a knob guard is needed(more weight)to stop you banging the controls against your body and moving or even snapping them off. The electronics mount in the normal position with headphone wire at the read, so the cable comes straight up to the phones(less pull) rather than like behind the cuff where its better the other way round, i prefered mine battery to the body, till i got the behind the cuff rod.
 
Critterhunter said:
DBSMokey, I see you have it mounted like I was talking and have the control box mounted sideways for easy access to the controls. I was thinking of doing that. Do you guys find that it's better to have the controls facing your hip or facing away from you? Better to flip the control box backwards if it's under your arm? Just not sure if I should flip it backwards and also if it should be mounted sideways or what. I'd have to hold the thing in my hand to figure all the mechanics of that stuff out and I don't have his machine with me yet.

I just read a suggestion to place the controls the way I have them. I do, occasionally, hunt in reverse discrim, so I like to have the pinpoint/discrim knob in plain view. It does, however, place the cord coming from the unit under more strain, so it should be supported. I like the way I have it set up, although, most certainly, erik's setup appears much more aesthetic.
 
dbsmokey said:
Critterhunter said:
DBSMokey, I see you have it mounted like I was talking and have the control box mounted sideways for easy access to the controls. I was thinking of doing that. Do you guys find that it's better to have the controls facing your hip or facing away from you? Better to flip the control box backwards if it's under your arm? Just not sure if I should flip it backwards and also if it should be mounted sideways or what. I'd have to hold the thing in my hand to figure all the mechanics of that stuff out and I don't have his machine with me yet.

I just read a suggestion to place the controls the way I have them. I do, occasionally, hunt in reverse discrim, so I like to have the pinpoint/discrim knob in plain view. It does, however, place the cord coming from the unit under more strain, so it should be supported. I like the way I have it set up, although, most certainly, erik's setup appears much more aesthetic.

I have mine set up that way because I use large coils (WOT & 10 x 14) and it balances out better for me. I have used the set up mounted under the cuff (lightning rod) but found that for me it worked better the other way & since I never switch to PP I have no need to get at the knobs after I turn on the machine. When we travel there is usually a 25 ft airstream behind my 2500 4x4 so space for machines is not a problem
 
Thanks for the info. Now I just need to talk him into letting me build him a custom straight shaft. Why anybody would pass up the offer to build them a much better shaft with better balance over the stock Excal setup is beyond me, but some people don't know what's best for them. :biggrin: I enjoy this sort of winter project anyway. Gives me a reason to kill a six pack in the garage and fire up my propane heater. Turn on the radio and escape the world for a few hours. That's also why I enjoy building my RC planes as much as I do flying them.
 
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