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Coil Repair Tip

plidn1

Member
On occasion you will find yourself with a cracked coil that still works perfectly, but no longer water proof.
You can fix them and fortify the body with "J B Weld".
It can be spread over the crack or entire coil to seal and strengthen. Then, after it hardens, you can sand and paint to finish the job.
Just a small tip to save the cost of a new coil.
 
I fixed a hole in a transmission once with JB Weld. I put 40K miles on it before selling the car, never leaked. Great stuff
 
Some other stuff that I found to be amazing for repairs like this, 3M Panel Bond!
Where I work they use it in the Truck Shop to fix and repair big rig truck bodies, they said its the only stuff that they've ever found that WORKED!

Mark
 
I'm thinking small cracks can be repaired with a variety of different products. Those mentioned, Epoxy etc. Just be sure the coil is dry internally before sealing. The only time I had a problem like this was while detecting in wet grass after a light rain. The detector that had been working fine began falsing severely after taking on moisture through a very small crack. After drying out, it worked normally again.
BB
 
I broke one of the ears off my coil and tried JB Weld and PC7, they both broke again after one outing. Then I tried Craftics #33, it's made for plexiglass but it has lasted for over 6 months now.
here are the details:
Craftics Thickened Cement #33, 1.5-oz tube. Fast-setting high-strength, medium-bodied solvent cement. Bonds acrylics, Rigid PVC, styrene, butyrate, and polycarbonate to themselves and each other. As well as other plastics and porous surfaces. Fills small gaps and dries clear. Safe for water applications.
 
Epoxies don't bond to all plastics, those used for coil bodies will work better with a solvent cement. The potting compound used to seal up the coil components though are usually epoxy based and would bond well with epoxy.
There is an epoxy formulation called G-2 from System Three Epoxy that some folks in the marine field have reported success with on similar plastics.
 
Most of the "good" epoxies you can get at local stores are junk compared to high quality epoxies used for the hobby of RC in plane building. Head up to your local hobby shop and ask about the best epoxy they have. The most common brand (and a very good one) comes in two clear bottles. One bottle has red writing on it and the other black. You can get it in 5 minute or I think 15 minute dry times. I always used the 5 minute stuff. Not too pricey. Like $8 or so if I remember right. This stuff BLOWS AWAY all other store bought epoxies I've used. In coil prep, sand the area with fine paper and then wipe it clean with rubbing alchohol. Mix the epoxy well and then force it into the crack. Might help to pry the crack open somehow so you can pack it in there good and easy. I've also sealed cracks in a friend's coil with spray on bed liner. I just put 4 or 5 coats on the coil letting them dry a few hours in the sun between coats. Important to do that, because if it hasn't cured properly before the next coat I don't think it will ever get as hard as it should. I use spray on liner to protect the bottom of all my coils and ditched the coil covers as it's so much less hassle and also drops a few ounces of weight.
 
I've fixed two coils with epoxy. 1 had cracks in the body, the other had a broken mounting bracket. The epoxy worked great for me.. I also sprayed dupli-colr bedliner over the repaired coil that had the cracks for added protection.. just my 2
 
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