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Coil cord on the shaft

krasman

New member
Looking for advise on properly wrapping my coil cord around the shafts. Ive been told to wrap it on the lower shaft and tie it off with zip ties to help prevent false targets, does anyone do this, and maybe have a pic to post and/or a detailed good how to.
 
I would say the further away from the coil the better, any coiled wire with current passing through it will create a magnetic field and interfearnce however slight, i make wide seperated coils rather than a straight bit then tightly coiled for this reason, weather it makes a difference i don't know as i can't measure any magnetic field if there is any.
 
If we are talking about the excal I come straight up the back of the shaft until I hit the straight shaft (about 18 inches) I use electricians black tape to secure it and then make soft loops till just below the handle and then I make 5-6 tight ones , go around the handle and loose ones from there to the pod I secure the cord at various places with the black electricians tape. The tape is wide so it won't cut into the wire and at the end of the wrap (tape) I put a dab of goop to keep it from unravelling
 
I come straight up on my GT with the coil cable by securing velcro loops around it and the shaft. Once it's behind the hand grip in the forearm area I then coil the cables around and then route just enough back below the hand grip to reach the meter. Getting the cable as quickly away from the coil I believe helps you to get sensitivity a little higher, and wrapping the excess cable up above the hand grip on the shaft helps to balance the machine better. Ideally a detector should balance right where the hand grip is. Even though the coil end is lighter than the box end how far away the coil is from the desired COG (Center Of Gravity) at the hand grip will make the machine nose heavy. Sorry for RC plane references but you get the idea...
 
dont make the same very expensive mistake that I did ! :sadwalk: I have used a carbon fibre " Yorkshire longshaft " on my all of my Excaliburs for some years now and I wouldnt use anything else ,
I also tape the coil wire to the left side of the shaft in order to reduce shaft diameter and water drag during hunting , then I tightly coiled the remaining length long coil wire beneath the handle. All went well until one day my old mate " Scally " went down ? :confused: when i stripped it down I found that the black outer wire sheathing had cracked on the outsides of the coils ( maybe sun or cable sheathing stress ) thus allowing water to enter and ruin my coil !! :sick: mega bucks later for a new coil, service and seals , I asked for the new coil wire shortened to the required longshaft length of 54" and I have had no more coiling cable problems since. :thumbup:
At first Vince at Minelab Ireland was concerned that shortening the cable could upset the resistance ? but old Scally still keeps on finding me the GOODIES :heh::minelab:
I intend to have a word with Vince and have my new Mk2 Excalibur coil wire shortened also.
I have also considered the Grey ghost conversion for my Mk2 ? but I read about the new Peltor headphone mod ? how does it compere any info welcome ?????????? :help:
happy hunting Tony Weston :ukflag:
 
I am also interested in this, if someone wouldn't mine taking some pictures so we all could see, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Rob
 
I zip tie mine straight up the lower portion of the shaft and then coil the wire on the upper shaft. Doing it this way seems to have given me less falsing than before I started doing it this way.
 
This is how All of my Excal's are setup....

I just built this Straight shaft.I usually have 2 velcro straps on the shaft .. lower portion..for coil adjustment.. and upper portion..
 
mtpockets, a suggestion, try reversing the control box on that shaft, headphone wire then comes straight up to your head and no pulling and the pp/disc switch is much closer at hand. I think you'll find it a lot better especially if you hunt in AM and check in disc
 
beware my friend !! :nono:you are making a similar mistake ( only mine was coiled around the shaft below the handle ) but that mistake cost me dearly
 
i hunt the water 95% of the time and works good for me.

seeing as we must remove our lower fiber rod after each spin so it will not freeze up, i use small wire ties along the upper shaft..........THEY ARE KINDA LOOSE so i can pull down thru. and get the rod out.

as u saw above, i have a new under the arm job for this summer, will do the lower rod the same,but will have to wrap as most do and just unravel some to get the lower rod out.

good luck on your quest.
 
I've never heard of these concerns.. until now...

My headphone cable doesn't hang up on my pinpoint knob at all.. and the wire is straight up to my headphones..

Just about every hunter that I know of coils their cable wires the same way...

Without any issues... You just have to use your noggin while making the wraps....

you need to have you coil Free floating... while your wrapping up your coil... this way the coil cable isn't stressed and it can unwind as your making the wraps..

the lower section of the cable is secured with Velcro straps... It wasn't pictured cause when I took the pictures I was in the final stages of completing it..


I think the reason why people may have this problem is because they... Don't let the Coil freely unwind as your winding the cable..
 
Try reading my post again, i never said it did, with the control box reversed the pinpoint switch is at hand(closer to the handle) and the headphone wire runs straight up to the phones alonside your bodd with no pulling even in the waves, with it comming out at the back of the machine it doesn't
 
I have mine wrapped up high and I tie it off with strips of old bicycle tubing. I read this in one of clives books, great idea, secures firmly but you can move the cable if needed. I cut strips about 1/2" wide and 8" long, plenty enough there.
 
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