Coil connection problems

[LTimedigger]

Ok guys, need some help. Have had some great finds with CTX when its being good but when its bad its very bad. About a year ago I sent my shooter coil to the factory because it wasnt converting a signal. I exchanged my other two coils first and they worked so assumed it was the coil. ML sent me another coil which worked but a few months later all of my coils began to fail to transmit a tone. I sent the machine back. Got it back repaired. The tech said auto mode was set to -3. (I doubt this) Have been using since with no problems but tonight I tried to do some testing with a coin and the problem had begun again. I literally have to scrape a coin under the coil to generate a sound. I was lucky the first time cuz everything under warranty. Do yall have any suggestions? Thought about doing a reset. Thanks

 

[sgoss66]

A reset is not a bad idea. BUT -- if that doesn't do it, and you provide the same "history" on this issue as you have here, I have to believe Minelab will take care of you in a "fair" way (even though warranty has since expired...)

Steve

 

[IDXMonster]

Ok guys, need some help. Have had some great finds with CTX when its being good but when its bad its very bad. About a year ago I sent my shooter coil to the factory because it wasnt converting a signal. I exchanged my other two coils first and they worked so assumed it was the coil. ML sent me another coil which worked but a few months later all of my coils began to fail to transmit a tone. I sent the machine back. Got it back repaired. The tech said auto mode was set to -3. (I doubt this) Have been using since with no problems but tonight I tried to do some testing with a coin and the problem had begun again. I literally have to scrape a coin under the coil to generate a sound. I was lucky the first time cuz everything under warranty. Do yall have any suggestions? Thought about doing a reset. Thanks

Any chance of making a quick video of this? Have you unscrewed both of your connectors where the machine pops open to change coils and spray out the connectors/threads/pins with contact cleaner? I use Deoxit,it can be found at Radio Shack. Clean any and all connectors on the machine carefully and check the cables for cracking.

 

[jas415]

"Any chance of making a quick video of this? Have you unscrewed both of your connectors where the machine pops open to change coils and spray out the connectors/threads/pins with contact cleaner? I use Deoxit,it can be found at Radio Shack. Clean any and all connectors on the machine carefully and check the cables for cracking."

Above is the best advice you can get! Even if there is not issue, do it every 3-6 months! Clean the pins with electronic spray, i use 'Mass Air Sensor' spray, then hit them with a silicone spray. Take 'both' cables off the head unit and spray both of the male and female ends of each. Also, check the coil cable where it actually enters the coil, sort of bend it around a bit and look into the small groove sections to see if the inner sheath is split. Hope you can get it 'fixed', let us know?

 

[bklein]

Pull the cables out enough from the housing that you can check for possible cuts/pinches.
If your CTX is 5 years or older you might need the internal coin cell replaced followed by a firmware reload.
I just went to the Pomona gold show and their demo CTX was totally flakey. Wouldnt turn off, had to pull the battery. Had old firmware with no saltwater mode. I suspect its coincell battery bad. Btw, they had an EQ800 and pinpointers to play with.

 

[LTimedigger]

n/t

 

[LTimedigger]

Ok guys, I figured it out and I'm a bit embarrassed. I remembered late last nite, I had done a dig a couple of days ago and was super tired and didnt put the battery back on the charger, but it was operating fine except for the coils not transmitting a tone. I thought well lets try and put the battery back on the charger all nite. This morning it worked like a charm. What threw me is only the coils were inoperable. This is the first MD I've had that rather than completely blacking out, it instead "browns out" sort of like the person developing diabetes who first notice a problem with their feet. I'm thinking now that dirty prongs indeed may have been making a battery that was already getting low have more trouble transmitting the sound to the processor so I will be cleaning them this week. Had it for all this time and never thought about needing to do this. I had already been thinking about something the first time I had the problem. A lot of times I would lean the CTX against the wall when not using and I've wondered if the gravity from its weight might stress already dirty coils causing interference. Just theory, but I do always lay it down now. Thanks for yalls input!

 

[bklein]

I dont understand how the contacts could get cruddy unless your o-ring is missing - but I never go underwater with mine. Post a photo. A well designred circuit would not run in a marginal condition. When you say “transmitting a tone”I dont really know what you mean. No audio? With wm10 or without? Oh well if you think you have it working, great.

 

[Jason in Enid]

Sorry, but a "low battery" has zero impact on the detector operations. It uses a voltage limiter, so regardless much or little power the battery pack has left, the detector only lets X voltage come through. Once the battery can no longer supply X voltage, then the detector shuts off. It operates at 100% all the way until it dies.

 

[LTimedigger]

bklein what I mean is that the two time this has happened, is there is virtually no sound produced when i run any of the coils, over a metal object, UNLESS I literally rub the object on the coil at which I can hear a faint tone, which suggests some kind of transmission problem. Jason your right it makes no sense that charging the battery should fix this problem I've had a couple of times where the battery was really low in the field and yea it shuts down. Just know it worked when I charged it. Go figure.