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Coil Cable Wrap Question
- Thread starter fsa46
- Start date
deepdiger60
New member
Frank i ordered 6 of these for both shaft set up,s i have 3 on each saves alot of wrapping .Reguardless how you do it the wire starts at the coil Jim
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coil-Cable-Clips-Minelab-Metal-Detector-Coiltek-Nugget-Finder-/181090146388?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item2a29d05854
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coil-Cable-Clips-Minelab-Metal-Detector-Coiltek-Nugget-Finder-/181090146388?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item2a29d05854
OldBeechnut
Well-known member
Great tip. I like those...thanks for sharing..DD
Neil
Well-known member
Jim those are some nice clips. I cut up an old bike tube and got a bunch of strands of that rubber, works good, grabs good I mean, but they do have to be retied from time to time.
I make my lowest tie off just below where the lower rod goes into the upper rod, with the lower rod fully retracted. Thats about a foot from the coil and I leave enough slack for it go lay flat like your showing plus be able to work the coil around the other way also, good for beach cuts that way.
I make my lowest tie off just below where the lower rod goes into the upper rod, with the lower rod fully retracted. Thats about a foot from the coil and I leave enough slack for it go lay flat like your showing plus be able to work the coil around the other way also, good for beach cuts that way.
sandgroper
New member
Those clips will pop off when they get bumped.
No use these much much better !!
http://www.wetearth.com.au/Poly-Ratchet-Clamps
I have 5 detectors and they all have these type and they never come off when knocked.
No use these much much better !!
http://www.wetearth.com.au/Poly-Ratchet-Clamps
I have 5 detectors and they all have these type and they never come off when knocked.
I always ran mine straight up the lower rod with electrical tape on the lower shaft then started the wrap on the middle shaft (or upper depending on which rod your using) just past the collar lock. On some of my Sovs I also started cutting down my coil wires for less weight and wrapping hassle but that's not for the weak of heart or warranty worrier for sure! HH George Fatizzi
I do about the same thing as I wrap maybe 1 wrap around the lower pole that the rest above the locking collar. I did cut down the cable one of my 8 inch coinsearch coils and to me it worked out great, but let it go with one of my Sovereigns I sold, wish I would have kept it as it was great.
On both my Explorers series with the X-1 probe and my Sovereign I had extra coils on shaft and would us zip ties to hold the cable on to the shaft for easy changing of coils.
On both my Explorers series with the X-1 probe and my Sovereign I had extra coils on shaft and would us zip ties to hold the cable on to the shaft for easy changing of coils.
Critterhunter
New member
I always run my cable straight up the shaft to get it as far away from the coil as fast as possible. I only winding the cable around the shaft once it's past the grip (IE: in my forearm area). I always worried any metal in the detection field would create dead spots. Way I've read some say the field interacting with metal above the coil will create dead spots in the bottom field by way of it being one big "bubble" where both interact with each other to some extent. The "butterfly" effect? 
Never read too far into magnetic field properties to see if that's true but why not hedge my bets is the way I look at it, which is why I even flip the adjustment snap pin upside down so the bottom of the "V" is pointing away from the coil.
The main problem with a coil cable though is any movement that coil might see. Detectors need motion (in most disc modes anyway and many all metal modes) to see the target. So to insure no movement which might cause falsing (IE: less sensitivity being able to be run), I headed up to Home Depot and got a roll of their Velcro loops. These loops have a slot in them to tuck the one end into to pull tight before you Velcro it down. Much like using a belt on your pants. In my quest to drop every gram I could off my GT I also ditched the stock Velcro loops anyway. Too fat and fuzzy. Yea, mere grams but just the same every bit counts. They held too much fuzzy stuff off trees and such when hunting the woods anyway so I threw them right out and got these.
Here's a few pics of my land and water rigs, though in these old pics I didn't have all the velcro on them I like to use all the way up the shaft to insure no movement of the cable until it gets behind the grip...
[attachment 258563 IMG_1991.JPG][attachment 258564 IMG_1997.JPG]
The land rig was using the 15x12 at the time, but I now have a 12x10 and find it deeper on coin/ring sized targets in my soil. Man I have forgotten how big that 15x12 looks on the end of the shaft. I have also since ditched the aluminum light weight stand I used on that custom shaft. Was hanging up on my headphone cable too often. I now use just two rubber "chic-let" type feet from Radio Shack used for making things like fax machines quieter. You just peal the backing off and stick them on a cleaned surface (via rubbing alcohol).
Little buggers still ain't fell off yet. I stuck them on the bottom of the control box at the back, but not over where the battery pack goes so I don't loose them should I switch packs. I didn't want any stress of the battery pack being bumped as I sit the machine down anyway. They are tall enough to keep the bottom of the GT out of wet grass a bit, but I would have preferred to use taller ones, but had I did then the GT wouldn't fit into the Minelab chest mount bag for water hunting.
No matter anyway, as I'm ditching that bag for a Plano water poof box to throw it into when water hunting, so then I can put taller ones on. By the way, if anybody wants to buy the Minelab bag shoot me a PM with a price. You'll have to wait until I get the Plano box though so I don't find myself without a way to water hunt should I put off ordering the thing.
For one of my Excalibur friends, he wanted me to snug up/spiral the coil cable like I did for another friend's Excal. Not only did I give it a nice tight spiral as far away from the coil as I could (with the stock S-shaft...can't spiral it around above the grip with that thing), I also went Velcro crazy on it to there is no slight movement in the water. Even the battery POD cable I velcroed. That might seem like overkill but over time any slight back and fourth movement due to water drag can cause a short somewhere. On my light weight land shaft I built I use 4 or 5 Velcro loops minimum going up the shaft, and plan to use more than that on the stock shaft I use for water hunting this spring.
Here's a pic of what I did to the most recent Excalibur they dared let me have my hands on to tinker with...
[attachment 258561 IMG_20831.jpg][attachment 258562 IMG_2086.jpg]
From this thread concerning that...
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1835904,1835904#msg-1835904
PS- I've played with zip ties in the past. Problem I saw was when taking them off there'd be a nice kink in the coil cable. Pressure points like that are a very bad thing for causing shorts, especially when being dragged on by say water drag or when the cord is accident snagged on something. Better to use a wrap of some kind with a wide surface area to prevent any one spot from taking all the stress. That's also why many guys will loop the cord loosely usually twice before it goes to the plug when hip or chest mounting.
One last tip- If you find your stock shaft has a little slop in it, that two-headed snap adjustment pin for adjusting the height of the shaft has two heads but Minelab only drilled out one side for one to pop out. Camlocks are pretty worthless IMO for taking out shaft slop, but you'll be amazed how much it snugs things up if you drill that hole on both shafts all the way through so both heads can snap out. Just be sure to use a drill bit only just big enough to do the job and straight.
Never read too far into magnetic field properties to see if that's true but why not hedge my bets is the way I look at it, which is why I even flip the adjustment snap pin upside down so the bottom of the "V" is pointing away from the coil.The main problem with a coil cable though is any movement that coil might see. Detectors need motion (in most disc modes anyway and many all metal modes) to see the target. So to insure no movement which might cause falsing (IE: less sensitivity being able to be run), I headed up to Home Depot and got a roll of their Velcro loops. These loops have a slot in them to tuck the one end into to pull tight before you Velcro it down. Much like using a belt on your pants. In my quest to drop every gram I could off my GT I also ditched the stock Velcro loops anyway. Too fat and fuzzy. Yea, mere grams but just the same every bit counts. They held too much fuzzy stuff off trees and such when hunting the woods anyway so I threw them right out and got these.
Here's a few pics of my land and water rigs, though in these old pics I didn't have all the velcro on them I like to use all the way up the shaft to insure no movement of the cable until it gets behind the grip...
[attachment 258563 IMG_1991.JPG][attachment 258564 IMG_1997.JPG]
The land rig was using the 15x12 at the time, but I now have a 12x10 and find it deeper on coin/ring sized targets in my soil. Man I have forgotten how big that 15x12 looks on the end of the shaft. I have also since ditched the aluminum light weight stand I used on that custom shaft. Was hanging up on my headphone cable too often. I now use just two rubber "chic-let" type feet from Radio Shack used for making things like fax machines quieter. You just peal the backing off and stick them on a cleaned surface (via rubbing alcohol).
Little buggers still ain't fell off yet. I stuck them on the bottom of the control box at the back, but not over where the battery pack goes so I don't loose them should I switch packs. I didn't want any stress of the battery pack being bumped as I sit the machine down anyway. They are tall enough to keep the bottom of the GT out of wet grass a bit, but I would have preferred to use taller ones, but had I did then the GT wouldn't fit into the Minelab chest mount bag for water hunting.
No matter anyway, as I'm ditching that bag for a Plano water poof box to throw it into when water hunting, so then I can put taller ones on. By the way, if anybody wants to buy the Minelab bag shoot me a PM with a price. You'll have to wait until I get the Plano box though so I don't find myself without a way to water hunt should I put off ordering the thing.
For one of my Excalibur friends, he wanted me to snug up/spiral the coil cable like I did for another friend's Excal. Not only did I give it a nice tight spiral as far away from the coil as I could (with the stock S-shaft...can't spiral it around above the grip with that thing), I also went Velcro crazy on it to there is no slight movement in the water. Even the battery POD cable I velcroed. That might seem like overkill but over time any slight back and fourth movement due to water drag can cause a short somewhere. On my light weight land shaft I built I use 4 or 5 Velcro loops minimum going up the shaft, and plan to use more than that on the stock shaft I use for water hunting this spring.
Here's a pic of what I did to the most recent Excalibur they dared let me have my hands on to tinker with...
[attachment 258561 IMG_20831.jpg][attachment 258562 IMG_2086.jpg]
From this thread concerning that...
http://www.findmall.com/read.php?21,1835904,1835904#msg-1835904
PS- I've played with zip ties in the past. Problem I saw was when taking them off there'd be a nice kink in the coil cable. Pressure points like that are a very bad thing for causing shorts, especially when being dragged on by say water drag or when the cord is accident snagged on something. Better to use a wrap of some kind with a wide surface area to prevent any one spot from taking all the stress. That's also why many guys will loop the cord loosely usually twice before it goes to the plug when hip or chest mounting.
One last tip- If you find your stock shaft has a little slop in it, that two-headed snap adjustment pin for adjusting the height of the shaft has two heads but Minelab only drilled out one side for one to pop out. Camlocks are pretty worthless IMO for taking out shaft slop, but you'll be amazed how much it snugs things up if you drill that hole on both shafts all the way through so both heads can snap out. Just be sure to use a drill bit only just big enough to do the job and straight.