coil cable for detectors..minelab excalibur or....

[OldBeechnut]

Got a few emails from those looking for this cable..comes in perfect for the minelab excalibur same size...6mm, same 4 cond....9204k12........now if I can figure out how to connect it to the coil, ................inside.

 

[pjrough]

......now if I can figure out how to connect it to the coil, ................inside.

Hi!
It seems to be a complicated issue. I've spent some time studying how to change the wire, but it seems that there is no easy way. Russian and Ukrainian guys are familiar to that operation, just take a look to photos from links below.
http://www.md4u.ru/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=2301&start=200
http://www.md4u.ru/viewtopic.php?f=96&t=4116

Well, I think that photos are clear, but I can translate something if you need.
Basically, that guys wanted to change the coil wire and copy the PCB to have possibility to manufacture own coils.

As for me, if your wire is broken in the coil entrance there are 2 possibilities:
- to go from the top side of the coil, trying to get the piece of the cable which is not broken, solder a new wire and place new fitting.

On this photo you could see enough place to solder in a new wire.



- to go from the bottom side, drilling, trying to get the wire carefully, than to cut-of the old wire, pull a new one through the fitting from the top side, solder a new wire to the rests of the old one and finally, to seal the hole by epoxy.

As for me, I prefer first option because of less work to do, and the main advantage is that it is not necessary to touch the graphite shield of the internal coil body (last picture shows internal body inside of the main one).
The pictures are not mine, they are from www.md4.ru forum.
Sorry for my English.

Best regards, Eugene.

 

[OldBeechnut]

Eugene, those are perfect...Just knowing it's doable..and the pictures... a great help..I've got a few coils, BBS that are in ruff shape...I will post pic's when done...Thank You Sir.....joe beechnut

 

[OldBeechnut]

Eugene, thanks again...
And your english is fine..........

Question for you Sir..., I'm working on some excalibur headphones.. I've seem to have found the best audio for PP/AM hunting...but when I switch to discriminate..the audio really is poor....so I'm trying to get the best audio for both disc and AM/PP by using a split setup...left side 50mm PUI piezo mounted on a tube, Right side.....still working on but trying to get the original koss yellows audio.....
any suggestions?

First is the stock yellows, which I'm trying to copy....I running 4 different piezo's ..50mm 41mm 27mm 20mm, been using everything from teak wood, plastic, differ thickness, brass, with no luck...just a few of...audio................
First is the stock yellows
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-qtUYmXV4k&feature=youtu.be

 

[pjrough]

Hello Joe,
Thank you, I'm glad that my links are useful.

According to the earphones it's very hard to suggest you something, as it seems that you are the most experienced person on this issue. All the mods I've seen were yours .
Well some guys are using totally handmade headphones, just one speaker, which they place inside of the diver's hood. The conventional speaker head (not piezo) is placed inside of hermetical plastic case (glued inside). The trick is to find high impedance speaker with dimensions you need. The guy told that the sound is great. On over hand, that construction is useful for the divers, I don't know how it will work outside of the water. Trying to find out the picture for you.....

 

[pjrough]

One more link to Russian speaking forum.
Check this link:
http://www.reviewdetector.ru/index.php?showtopic=352118&st=0

Here are some photos from this forum link:

Here's short explanation. These guys used conventional speakers of 50 ohm as piezo was not available. The plastic case is completely hermetical, there is minimum of air inside. The box is well adjusted to the speaker size.
As a result they got loud and clear sound under water and out of the water on Fisher cz 20.

As for me, it's a bit complected solution but, who knows, maybe it could provide you a sound quality you are looking for.

 

[OldBeechnut]

Thanks You Eugene, ...I like it. Maybe the only way to get what I'm after....A very rich audio, I hear guys complain about the UWGG after being use to land head phones, and for that matter about the yellow Koss's also.....So tonight I'm going to research land headphones and see what make them tick.....I have some Blackwidows, but going to check out Killer bee's and others.............Thanks again....

Wish I could read those forums you posted......a whole different world, different idea's. ....................will keep you posted.....

 

[OldBeechnut]

Think I have the design down, .....one side of cup is setup for AM/pp hunting the other for the discrimante hunter ...you get loud on the faints, and in discrimate you get similar to stock tones...but both split

Only problem I see,.............. is one side going to over power the other....? What do you hear...?
Target is a 4gr 14k Gold band, at 5 inch's, senstivity11'o'clock, volume 3/4, threshold full, xcal


Any tips on speakers, these are 41.80mm x 12.30mm..fit perfect...they say AudioSears2463v, the speaker specs, just need abot 20 more

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fhO5SSabse8&feature=youtu.be
Eugene,
Thank you Sir.....joe

 

[pjrough]

Hello Joe,
it is fantastic! You're so fast in apply all new ideas! that's mean a man with resources!
It could be, as the resistivity of the speaker is not the same to piezo. Could helps if put some serial resister to evaluate the resistivity of both channels.

For those guys beach detection is a new topic so, believe me, a lot of ideas are coming from this forum, but of course there are some interesting ideas (like these, I've already told).

 

[pjrough]

Happy New Year 2013!!!

Joe, I'm back with one idea. I've read that you've used a Bulgin ip68 rated connector to connect the wire, but reject that because of some failures.
The idea to use exchangeable coils are running around my head, but I want to install the ip68 rated chassis plug to the front endcup.
Take a look I've found some metallic plugs examples:

The new Bulgin 6000 metal series, available 2,3, 8, 16, 22 pole.
Chassis plug

Connector

the homepage http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Buccaneer/Buccaneer6000Power-Metal.html

These ones are quite massive. What's why I like more the following ones:

Lumberg, ip68 rated, available 3,4,5,6,7,8.... poles. http://www.lumberg.com/main/common/serie.asp?ser=003&cat=2&lang=eng

Chassis plug

Technical data sheet http://www.lumberg.com/Produkte/PDFs/0315.pdf

Connector

Technical data sheet http://www.lumberg.com/Produkte/PDFs/0322_1.pdf

The Lumberg's one are more compact. But any way seems that there are no room to place ip68 Lumberg chassis plug and Heyco fitting to the same front endcup, so, my proposal is to install battery fitting together with earphone fitting to back endcup. Something like this:

(suppose the picture is clear)

It could turn Xcal machine quite flexible (of course, if the metallic connectors will helps to avoid failure signal).

What do you think? Will it works without failures?

... Will come back with some additional drawings later, after some celebrations....

 

[ufobbs]

Where on earth did you find that cable you are holding in your hand?
I have been looking everywhere to replace the cable on my excalibur 1000. it is 16/4 sjo cord
If you have a link to where you got it could you possibly send the link to me? Thanks john ufobbs4@verizon.net

 

[OldBeechnut]

Forgot to post the link........they have several different types but this works great for the excalibur..........9204k12

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-electrical-wire/=kuov53

 

[OldBeechnut]

Happy New Years My friend....Great minds think a like....

but I want to install the ip68 rated chassis plug to the front endcup.

I like your idea,....Much like the Ikelite

Something I and a otlew have been chatting about but on the inside of the POD. I will have to get out the drawing board on this one, OT had the idea of casing female pins into the endcap ......................then you would cut the wires on the PCB, install male pins to plug into the endcap from the inside. My thing was, the area is so tight it would be tuff to get it to work....So I was thinking some kind of onetime install to the PCB of a pin type of plug. Problem is the fit would have to be perfect..And I have pulled and installed many excalibur PCB's....if the alignment is off a little it can make for some bad turning knobs, maybe even a broken Pot. So the idea went on the shelf for me.....

The idea is great, if the new 6000 is better then the 400's you may have a good project keep me posted........Happy NewYears again my friend from Baltimore

One Of OTlews cast pressure caps for testing the endcaps...very clean ...

 

[OldBeechnut]

pjrough, Eugene

A closer look and I really think they will work. As soon as the come available I will give it a shot...Let me know how your progress is...The reason I think they will work...Push/Pull.IP69k...HighPressure.....just like the air hose fittings. I'm thinking the Bulkhead (FRONT PANEL MOUNTING CONNECTOR) would be good for the endcap? Just like the pressure tester for the xcal pod in the picture above? Looks very easy, just wonder what the cost will be......

 

[OldBeechnut]

Looking at your drawing, maybe it is me but I think you may need a connector on the headphone end also, on the inside, For the battery hookup? Something does not look right....Maybe it is me? When you pull the endcaps of, you start with the headphone side, then you pull the coil wire endcap out with the PCB/main boardout..if the battery wires are connected to headphone side, endcap...it would have to have a inside connection so the headphone endcap would come off? Guide me on this, maybe I'm wrong.... ......thanks joe

 

[pjrough]

Looking at your drawing, maybe it is me but I think you may need a connector on the headphone end also, on the inside, For the battery hookup?

Yes, Sir, you're absolutely right. It is necessary to place some kind of a plug. A simple plug, similar to the headphone's one. I didn't figure out that because it is still hard for me to express myself in English.
there are other two questions connected to that:
1. is it enough room inside to place a conductor? ... I think yes. Taking into account that Xcal normally is consuming 50m Ah currency, the conductor cable shouldn't be very thick. It could placed between PCB's parts or in the bottom part.
2. Could it be any interference to the PCB components causing some failures? ... Who knows, but it is possible to minimize just using a shielded wire.

Now, it is one dilemma.
The Bulgin metallic plug looks solid, good made and it is rated to ip69. Price of the plug + connector is around USD56. Disadvantage is that it is quite big.
The Lumberg's one has only ip68 rate. It is necessarily to test it for the leakage on the field conditions. But it has a perfect size, and the price is around USD 16.
Just take a look I've made some real size drawings:
[attachment 253518 excip68mod-1.jpg]

As you can see there is enough room to install Lumberg plug into the endcup (no endcup thread is needed). And it is possible to fix it using original screw-nut, to be sure that plug remains hermetical it is possible to seal everything by the epoxy.
There no enough room to fix Bulgun's plug by the screw-nut, but it is possible to make corresponded thread in the endcup and seal everything by epoxy, but a bit complicated.


Maybe is better try the Lumberg's option first as it is cheaper and compact, the endcup modification shouldn't be complicated as far as no thread is needed. Please see a simple drawing below.

[attachment 253519 excip68mod-2.jpg]

ok, it is 1:25 in Spain and I have only 4 hours more to sleep
it is nice to have possibility to discuss all these topics with you, it is possible to get plenty of good ideas to improv the Xcal.

 

[OldBeechnut]

ok, it is 1:25 in Spain and I have only 4 hours more to sleep

You have done some excellent work Eugene, please get your rest...

And you are correct, Lumberg's is the better choice for many reasons....let me know..I'll make a few endcaps for you at no charge..........I have the specs from above...I'm going to see if I can find an American distributor on the Lumberg's

I have just about settled on speakers for the head set.....seems most American Aftermarket Headphones use Audiosears, thanks to several friends for the info, very much appreciated

The Killer Bee's ..............Audio Sears marked 2463 on the back, and 490 on the front.

Jolly Rogers ...................Audio Sears marked 2463V on the back 022 on the front

Blackwidows ..................Audiosears 2463V..188 front

Rat Phones ....................Kobitone 25C.E500-RO

SunRay Pro Golds .........Audio Sears 2463 189 front

it is still hard for me to express myself in English.

No Problem

Again pjrough, Thank you Sir, excellent work on the drawings and research.

 

[pjrough]

And you are correct, Lumberg's is the better choice for many reasons....let me know..I'll make a few endcaps for you at no charge..........I have the specs from above...I'm going to see if I can find an American distributor on the Lumberg's

Hi, Joe. Thank you for this offer, Sir, but it is your work time and materials. The price for your endcups is good, so I will be happy just if you'll make two endcups according to the drawing, one for sword and other for newer xcalibur instead of endcups which has one Heyco fitting.

Lumberg got several distributors in USA, take a look a link beelow:
http://www.lumberg.com/main/common/kontakt_common.asp?land=USA&Bereich=GF1&lang=eng

I'll get connectors not early then the end of the next week, here in Spain we're in the holidays. As I'll receive them, will make some pictures.

 

[ufobbs]

Thanks Old Beechnut for the link for the wire,I bought some and replaced the entire coil cable all the way to the motherboard.
It all went very easy, Thanks again John..............

 

[pjrough]

...replaced the entire coil cable all the way to the motherboard...

Hello,
please explain how do you connect the cable from the coil's side?
Thanks.