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cleaning coins
- Thread starter fantomv
- Start date
If you talk silver coins I have got a very very good tip for you and several others.
But beware, I have posted this tip elsewhere on US forums and it was deleted and at first ridiculed.
It is good, however involves somewhat dangerous chemicals.
H2SO4 sulphuric acid. Your car battery has 10% if it is some used, new batteries has from 15-30%.
The thing is, I have not seen any better silver cleaner,, ever.
You will need to buy a contolled solution to know the percentage, then make a 3% solution.
Leave a silver coin in some for a short time and rinse in warm water, about 15 seconds in between each rinse.
Use rubber gloves and work over a stainless environment or even in your sink, you should do ok.
You will be able to control the amount of tarnish leaving the coin to make it appear a collectors item after some training.
Since I used it the first time, I have not ever used anything else, and I am sure you will do the same.
Better coins cleaned this way will not be recognised as a dirt finds even by dealers.
It involves googles, gloves, working in a sink or in a stainless buckett. But defusing civil war explosives is tens of times more dangerous.
Now, dont make it sound too dangerous.
But beware, I have posted this tip elsewhere on US forums and it was deleted and at first ridiculed.
It is good, however involves somewhat dangerous chemicals.
H2SO4 sulphuric acid. Your car battery has 10% if it is some used, new batteries has from 15-30%.
The thing is, I have not seen any better silver cleaner,, ever.
You will need to buy a contolled solution to know the percentage, then make a 3% solution.
Leave a silver coin in some for a short time and rinse in warm water, about 15 seconds in between each rinse.
Use rubber gloves and work over a stainless environment or even in your sink, you should do ok.
You will be able to control the amount of tarnish leaving the coin to make it appear a collectors item after some training.
Since I used it the first time, I have not ever used anything else, and I am sure you will do the same.
Better coins cleaned this way will not be recognised as a dirt finds even by dealers.
It involves googles, gloves, working in a sink or in a stainless buckett. But defusing civil war explosives is tens of times more dangerous.
Now, dont make it sound too dangerous.
I just hope some young detectorist isn't going to try this !!!
Not getting on your case but "Whew" think about it.
Rule is till sure of value "Do not clean your finds"
ALL you young detectorists out there....if you must clean use a little baking Soda on a wet finger tip and rub it.
IT IS A LOT SAFER !!!!!!
Not getting on your case but "Whew" think about it.
Rule is till sure of value "Do not clean your finds"
ALL you young detectorists out there....if you must clean use a little baking Soda on a wet finger tip and rub it.
IT IS A LOT SAFER !!!!!!
My rule of thumb is to not clean any coins that are silver, gold or copper! (we don't have bronze coins around here) If I happen to find an old coin that has a collector's value, I don't want to do clean it and risk ruining it's value.
I am fortunate in that silver and gold dug around here, comes out of the ground looking like the day it was lost. I simply rinse them off in water. In fact, I carry a small bottle of water around in my digging pouch that I put my coins in as soon as I dig them. The silver cleans itself and the coppers stay wet until I get home. Depending on the site where I dig them, the older coppers are sometimes corroded and crusted up from farm fertilizers. For those, I soak them in olive oil and wipe them gently with a paper towel. Lather, rinse, repeat! For the real bad ones, I soak them for 30 or 40 mintues, then pick at the crud with a wooden toothpick. I know that sounds weird. But I have found that the sharp end of a round wooden toothpick will usually do the job and not damage the copper. You can really get in around the lettering and dates, if you take your time.
For modern coins (clads and zincs), I run them through a rock tumbler. Not because I like shiny new coins. But because the darn bank won't take them if they look like they have been dug out of the ground. I use to spend my quarters at the local car wash or in a vending machine. But even the machines are getting more particular about dirty coins! JMHO HH Randy
I am fortunate in that silver and gold dug around here, comes out of the ground looking like the day it was lost. I simply rinse them off in water. In fact, I carry a small bottle of water around in my digging pouch that I put my coins in as soon as I dig them. The silver cleans itself and the coppers stay wet until I get home. Depending on the site where I dig them, the older coppers are sometimes corroded and crusted up from farm fertilizers. For those, I soak them in olive oil and wipe them gently with a paper towel. Lather, rinse, repeat! For the real bad ones, I soak them for 30 or 40 mintues, then pick at the crud with a wooden toothpick. I know that sounds weird. But I have found that the sharp end of a round wooden toothpick will usually do the job and not damage the copper. You can really get in around the lettering and dates, if you take your time.
For modern coins (clads and zincs), I run them through a rock tumbler. Not because I like shiny new coins. But because the darn bank won't take them if they look like they have been dug out of the ground. I use to spend my quarters at the local car wash or in a vending machine. But even the machines are getting more particular about dirty coins! JMHO HH Randy
Hard 2 Find
Member
Randy, I just bought a rock tumbler. What solution do you use too clean your coins?
Hi Fantomv,
I made my own tumbler for $80 Oz. Got an old computer case to make the box. The motor is from the fridge freezer fan from a refridgerator. What you have to be sure
of is to do the $1 and $2 coins seperate from the 50, 20, 10, and 5. The mixture i use is cooking salt, vinegar, a drop of detergent and some aquarium gravel
with fine lead shot and a round scourer you buy them in a pack with a handle for cleaning saucepans. I just put one of these in with the coins and half fill the barrell with water. Just have a look at them after a hour and a half and i generally change the water if it is to grotty. This does an excellent job of them. But as i only look
for modern coins to put back in to circulation it doesent matter as long as they are clean. But you do not clean coins that could have value.
Regards Pinpointa Down Under In Oz.
I made my own tumbler for $80 Oz. Got an old computer case to make the box. The motor is from the fridge freezer fan from a refridgerator. What you have to be sure
of is to do the $1 and $2 coins seperate from the 50, 20, 10, and 5. The mixture i use is cooking salt, vinegar, a drop of detergent and some aquarium gravel
with fine lead shot and a round scourer you buy them in a pack with a handle for cleaning saucepans. I just put one of these in with the coins and half fill the barrell with water. Just have a look at them after a hour and a half and i generally change the water if it is to grotty. This does an excellent job of them. But as i only look
for modern coins to put back in to circulation it doesent matter as long as they are clean. But you do not clean coins that could have value.
Regards Pinpointa Down Under In Oz.
I got a few bags of stuff with the tumbler to use on coins. One kind for silver and another for copper. Kind of like aquarium gravel, coated with some non-foaming detergent. I suppose since Kellyco is a FindMall sponsor, I can mention that I bought mine from them. HH Randy
Doug[Manila]
New member
most people caution against cleaning your expensive coins and that if you must best to send it in for professional cleaning. So how do the professionals do it?
http://www.mycoincollecting.com/collecting/cleaning-coins.html
Cleaning Coins
Coin Cleaning Rules | Cleaning Different Coin Types | Cleaning Coins Process | Drying Coins
The first rule of coin cleaning is: If you don't know its value, don't clean it, or if you think it is valuable, don't clean it, or if you know it is valuable, don't clean it. In other words, do not clean your discovered coins; leave them untouched and stored in proper holders. The reason for this is that coin dealers and collectors are interested in purchasing coins in their original condition and natural state of preservation.
For example, never clean coins with commercial jewelry and metal polishes or silver tarnish remover, which will remove the toning that normally collects over time on copper and silver coins. Removing tarnish often harms coins, leaving small spots, scratches, or pockmarks that can significantly diminish their numismatic value by up to 90 percent! Statistically, nearly 20 percent of coins shown to coin dealers are rejected because they were improperly cleaned, polished, or their toning was chemically enhanced. Remember, you cannot unclean an improperly cleaned coin.
This first rule leads us to the Obligatory Disclaimer: The material shown here is for research purposes only. The information remains "as is" and "with all faults." The user assumes all risk of use, damage, or injury. You agree that we have no liability for any damages nor are we liable for any consequential, incidental, indirect, or special damages. You indemnify us for claims caused by you.
Coin Cleaning Rules
The second rule of cleaning coins is take your coins to a professional do the cleaning. Professional dealers often offer a coin cleaning service using a method called "dripping" that should not be attempted by an amateur. Always handle your coins by the edges to avoid fingerprints on the surfaces.
The third rule of cleaning is, if your coins are so corroded that the date and details cannot be determined, consult a professional for advice before attempting to clean the coins to avoid or minimize possible damage.
The fourth rule is, if you absolutely, positively must clean your discovered coins, you should clean them with the least harmful method that will give the desired results. Remember that excessively dirty or spotted coins, if not cleaned within a reasonable length of time, can eventually corrode and become damaged beyond repair. After selecting the method you will use, you should experiment on low-value coins before cleaning high-value coins. Do not be tempted to use harsh chemicals, vinegar, sulfuric acid, abrasive pastes, polishing cloths, metal brushes, rock tumblers, rotating tools, or impact devices which can result in smooth, shiny, metal slugs.
The fifth rule is, if you know a coin you are selling has been cleaned, you must disclose that fact to the buyer
CLEANING SILVER COINS
Silver coins, when newly minted, have a bright silvery-white surface. A chemically active metal, silver tends to tone deep brown to black. Circulated silver coins will often have a dull gray appearance, sometimes with a deep gray or black area. Silver coins acquire a blue, green, or violet oil-like tone through tarnishing that can enhance the appearance and desirability of an old silver coin and should not be cleaned.
Many collectors will not buy silver coins that look as if they have been cleaned. When tarnish becomes dark brown or black, and a coin's design is hard to see, there may be some desirability to cleaning it using non-harsh methods, but never with an abrasive paste or cloth.
Clean dark silver coins with ammonia, vinegar, rubbing alcohol, lemon juice or polish remover with aceton. Allow coins to soak in a container of the liquid until any dirt or encrustation has been dislodged. Air-dry or pat them dry with a soft, clean cloth. Do not rub or polish. This may scratch the surface of the coin and will remove metal from the coin's surface. Any wear or scratches will decrease the value of your coin!
Note that silver coins can oxidize rapidly, especially in the presence of sulfur, such as is found in paper products. Some oxidized toning can be desirable but black silver coins are not. Only store your coins in proper containers, such as 2-inch by 2-inch sulfur-free envelopes available at coin dealers.
CLEANING COPPER COINS
Copper is among the most chemically active of all coinage metals. When a copper coin is first struck it has a brilliant pale orange surface and turns brown when circulated.
Copper coins tend to look worse after being cleaned and are more easily ruined than gold or silver coins. When absolutely necessary, clean dirty, green crusted, badly corroded copper coins without scrubbing them. Try soaking them in grape oil (or olive oil if grape oil is not available).
Some results can be obtained in one to four days, but don't be afraid to wait several weeks, months, or even a year for desired results. Remember, some of the green patina may be desirable in a copper coin. Although not so much a problem in Colorado, the prudent collector in a humid climate does not collect red copper coins which oxidize badly. Even in Colorado, it is wise to keep a desiccant in proximity to brown copper coins to absorb air moisture. Every six months, check your copper coins and stroke them with a soft camel's hair brush, such as is used on photographic lenses.
Another way to clean copper coins, use a product (available from any good coin supplier) called MS70. Use rubber gloves, this stuff will dry out your skin. It is safe, but if whatever is on the coin is stubborn, the coin can be soaked for days and even weeks in the MS70. You may use a soft toothbrush that will not harm the coins surfaces to remove the dirt in the devices and continue soaking. When you are satisfied with the coin's appearance, neutralize the MS70 from the coin with baking soda and warm running water. Dry the coin thoroughly and then apply a coat of Blue Ribbon coin cleaner and preservative, and let it dry for several days (or as long as it takes). Wipe any excess off with soft cotton balls, and store in safe cardboard 2 x 2's with the clear centers (use the ones that staple shut, not the self stick, that glue dries out and may not be safe). Make sure that the supplier tells you that the 2 x 2's you bought from him are safe. If the coin is somewhat discolored, you can use Dellar's Darkener after the soaking in MS70. Wipe any excess off and let it dry for days, or as long as it takes so that no more can be removed from the coin with a cotton ball. Use this before the Blue Ribbon until the coin is satisfactory to you. The Blue Ribbon is a cleaner also, and may remove some of the darkener, but the end result will be a beautifully clean and conserved coin for your collection.
NICKEL COINS
Nickel coins, when first minted, are dull silver in appearance, not as bright as silver. Circulated nickel coins have a gray appearance. Nickel coins are best cleaned with clean, warm, soapy, distilled water and a soft toothbrush. For stubbornly stained nickel coins, ammonia, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water, has been used successfully.
A first cleaning step for any coin may be to soak it for a few minutes and wash it in clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in a plastic container, using a mild liquid dishwashing soap and a very soft toothbrush. This may be all that is necessary. To make your soapy solution, use one tablespoon dishwashing liquid soap to a pint of water in your plastic container. Remember that metal containers can cause galvanic action of dissimilar metal alloys and will damage your coins!
Accumulated dirt and grime can usually be safely removed from a coin with the application of petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline) to both sides using a cotton-tipped swab (such as a Q-tip). Carefully remove the residue with clean swabs and finish with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Isopropyl or denatured alcohol is another non-abrasive cleaner that can be used in place of grape or olive oil. Never, however, use baking soda for a cleaning rub; baking soda may make a coin shinier, but will almost always ruin the coin's numismatic value.
A good example of corrosion that should be removed is Polyvinylchloride (PVC), a chemical found in older plastic coin holders that over time leaves a green, adherent, acidic, sticky, slightly scummy, scuzz discoloration on coins. This scuzz can spread so it is best to remove it as soon as possible using an organic solvent. One such organic solvent is acetone. You must adhere strictly to the warnings shown on the container, as a solvent such as acetone (found in nail polish remover) can be dangerous. Organic solvents can be used to remove tape or adhesive residue.
Some archeologists, professional coin dealers, and metal detecting hobbyists have used ultrasonic tanks that use ultrasound waves to agitate the clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in which coins are immersed. Sound waves are more gentle than even a soft toothbrush.
Expensive, specially made, commercial coin cleaning agents are available at coin shops. These cleaners should only be used as a last resort. You should never put gold coins into jewelry cleaner. Neither should you should dip silver coins in silver dip or polish them.
Cleaning Coins
Coin Cleaning Rules | Cleaning Different Coin Types | Cleaning Coins Process | Drying Coins
The first rule of coin cleaning is: If you don't know its value, don't clean it, or if you think it is valuable, don't clean it, or if you know it is valuable, don't clean it. In other words, do not clean your discovered coins; leave them untouched and stored in proper holders. The reason for this is that coin dealers and collectors are interested in purchasing coins in their original condition and natural state of preservation.
For example, never clean coins with commercial jewelry and metal polishes or silver tarnish remover, which will remove the toning that normally collects over time on copper and silver coins. Removing tarnish often harms coins, leaving small spots, scratches, or pockmarks that can significantly diminish their numismatic value by up to 90 percent! Statistically, nearly 20 percent of coins shown to coin dealers are rejected because they were improperly cleaned, polished, or their toning was chemically enhanced. Remember, you cannot unclean an improperly cleaned coin.
This first rule leads us to the Obligatory Disclaimer: The material shown here is for research purposes only. The information remains "as is" and "with all faults." The user assumes all risk of use, damage, or injury. You agree that we have no liability for any damages nor are we liable for any consequential, incidental, indirect, or special damages. You indemnify us for claims caused by you.
Coin Cleaning Rules
The second rule of cleaning coins is take your coins to a professional do the cleaning. Professional dealers often offer a coin cleaning service using a method called "dripping" that should not be attempted by an amateur. Always handle your coins by the edges to avoid fingerprints on the surfaces.
The third rule of cleaning is, if your coins are so corroded that the date and details cannot be determined, consult a professional for advice before attempting to clean the coins to avoid or minimize possible damage.
The fourth rule is, if you absolutely, positively must clean your discovered coins, you should clean them with the least harmful method that will give the desired results. Remember that excessively dirty or spotted coins, if not cleaned within a reasonable length of time, can eventually corrode and become damaged beyond repair. After selecting the method you will use, you should experiment on low-value coins before cleaning high-value coins. Do not be tempted to use harsh chemicals, vinegar, sulfuric acid, abrasive pastes, polishing cloths, metal brushes, rock tumblers, rotating tools, or impact devices which can result in smooth, shiny, metal slugs.
The fifth rule is, if you know a coin you are selling has been cleaned, you must disclose that fact to the buyer
CLEANING SILVER COINS
Silver coins, when newly minted, have a bright silvery-white surface. A chemically active metal, silver tends to tone deep brown to black. Circulated silver coins will often have a dull gray appearance, sometimes with a deep gray or black area. Silver coins acquire a blue, green, or violet oil-like tone through tarnishing that can enhance the appearance and desirability of an old silver coin and should not be cleaned.
Many collectors will not buy silver coins that look as if they have been cleaned. When tarnish becomes dark brown or black, and a coin's design is hard to see, there may be some desirability to cleaning it using non-harsh methods, but never with an abrasive paste or cloth.
Clean dark silver coins with ammonia, vinegar, rubbing alcohol, lemon juice or polish remover with aceton. Allow coins to soak in a container of the liquid until any dirt or encrustation has been dislodged. Air-dry or pat them dry with a soft, clean cloth. Do not rub or polish. This may scratch the surface of the coin and will remove metal from the coin's surface. Any wear or scratches will decrease the value of your coin!
Note that silver coins can oxidize rapidly, especially in the presence of sulfur, such as is found in paper products. Some oxidized toning can be desirable but black silver coins are not. Only store your coins in proper containers, such as 2-inch by 2-inch sulfur-free envelopes available at coin dealers.
CLEANING COPPER COINS
Copper is among the most chemically active of all coinage metals. When a copper coin is first struck it has a brilliant pale orange surface and turns brown when circulated.
Copper coins tend to look worse after being cleaned and are more easily ruined than gold or silver coins. When absolutely necessary, clean dirty, green crusted, badly corroded copper coins without scrubbing them. Try soaking them in grape oil (or olive oil if grape oil is not available).
Some results can be obtained in one to four days, but don't be afraid to wait several weeks, months, or even a year for desired results. Remember, some of the green patina may be desirable in a copper coin. Although not so much a problem in Colorado, the prudent collector in a humid climate does not collect red copper coins which oxidize badly. Even in Colorado, it is wise to keep a desiccant in proximity to brown copper coins to absorb air moisture. Every six months, check your copper coins and stroke them with a soft camel's hair brush, such as is used on photographic lenses.
Another way to clean copper coins, use a product (available from any good coin supplier) called MS70. Use rubber gloves, this stuff will dry out your skin. It is safe, but if whatever is on the coin is stubborn, the coin can be soaked for days and even weeks in the MS70. You may use a soft toothbrush that will not harm the coins surfaces to remove the dirt in the devices and continue soaking. When you are satisfied with the coin's appearance, neutralize the MS70 from the coin with baking soda and warm running water. Dry the coin thoroughly and then apply a coat of Blue Ribbon coin cleaner and preservative, and let it dry for several days (or as long as it takes). Wipe any excess off with soft cotton balls, and store in safe cardboard 2 x 2's with the clear centers (use the ones that staple shut, not the self stick, that glue dries out and may not be safe). Make sure that the supplier tells you that the 2 x 2's you bought from him are safe. If the coin is somewhat discolored, you can use Dellar's Darkener after the soaking in MS70. Wipe any excess off and let it dry for days, or as long as it takes so that no more can be removed from the coin with a cotton ball. Use this before the Blue Ribbon until the coin is satisfactory to you. The Blue Ribbon is a cleaner also, and may remove some of the darkener, but the end result will be a beautifully clean and conserved coin for your collection.
NICKEL COINS
Nickel coins, when first minted, are dull silver in appearance, not as bright as silver. Circulated nickel coins have a gray appearance. Nickel coins are best cleaned with clean, warm, soapy, distilled water and a soft toothbrush. For stubbornly stained nickel coins, ammonia, diluted 3 to 1 with distilled water, has been used successfully.
A first cleaning step for any coin may be to soak it for a few minutes and wash it in clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in a plastic container, using a mild liquid dishwashing soap and a very soft toothbrush. This may be all that is necessary. To make your soapy solution, use one tablespoon dishwashing liquid soap to a pint of water in your plastic container. Remember that metal containers can cause galvanic action of dissimilar metal alloys and will damage your coins!
Accumulated dirt and grime can usually be safely removed from a coin with the application of petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline) to both sides using a cotton-tipped swab (such as a Q-tip). Carefully remove the residue with clean swabs and finish with a soft, lint-free cloth.
Isopropyl or denatured alcohol is another non-abrasive cleaner that can be used in place of grape or olive oil. Never, however, use baking soda for a cleaning rub; baking soda may make a coin shinier, but will almost always ruin the coin's numismatic value.
A good example of corrosion that should be removed is Polyvinylchloride (PVC), a chemical found in older plastic coin holders that over time leaves a green, adherent, acidic, sticky, slightly scummy, scuzz discoloration on coins. This scuzz can spread so it is best to remove it as soon as possible using an organic solvent. One such organic solvent is acetone. You must adhere strictly to the warnings shown on the container, as a solvent such as acetone (found in nail polish remover) can be dangerous. Organic solvents can be used to remove tape or adhesive residue.
Some archeologists, professional coin dealers, and metal detecting hobbyists have used ultrasonic tanks that use ultrasound waves to agitate the clean, warm, soapy, distilled water in which coins are immersed. Sound waves are more gentle than even a soft toothbrush.
Expensive, specially made, commercial coin cleaning agents are available at coin shops. These cleaners should only be used as a last resort. You should never put gold coins into jewelry cleaner. Neither should you should dip silver coins in silver dip or polish them.