I've been experimenting with auto +3 and manual sensitivity. Something I've noticed is if I run it in higher manual sensitivity it nulls nearly all the time while in auto it doesn't. If I have the sens high and it is nulling like that will I miss coin signals? Or should I lower the manual sens down until I don't get constant nulling? By adjusting my FE #'s from 27 to 24 I'm able to run a higher sens without all the falsing. Is this a good idea or will I miss deep coins?
Find's Treasure Forums
Welcome to Find's Treasure Forums, Guests!
You are viewing this forums as a guest which limits you to read only status.
Only registered members may post stories, questions, classifieds, reply to other posts, contact other members using built in messaging and use many other features found on these forums.
Why not register and join us today? It's free! (We don't share your email addresses with anyone.) We keep email addresses of our users to protect them and others from bad people posting things they shouldn't.
Click here to register!
Need Support Help?
Cannot log in?, click here to have new password emailed to you
Changed email? Forgot to update your account with new email address? Need assistance with something else?, click here to go to Find's Support Form and fill out the form.
Can you run it too HOT?
- Thread starter Cutaplug
- Start date
MHirschmann
Member
My opinion is yes, you can absolutely run "too hot." Although this is proven, Is till say it is my opinion because i know people that hunt "too hot" and they do alright. Running too hot will make your machine unstable and cause you to miss targets. That's just my experience though. I don't like the constant chatter of running too hot and nulling is not conducive to recovering targets either. Like I said though, I know people that run "too hot" and they are able to hear targets through the chatter, its just a lot more work for your brain and doesn't seem to be "better" than running at the "correct" sensitivity for your area. I turn up my sens to the point where the machine gets "chattery" and then I turn it down a notch. This seems to work great for me. I don't know if this helps but its just my $.02. HH -Marc
earthmansurfer
Active member
I'll agree with Marc on running too hot. That said, I am in manual 30 most of the time. BUT, even in auto +3 it's usually running at 25 to 29! So, for me, running hot is not that bad. Yes it causes more falsing, more chatter and more nulling. When I hit the nulls I really slow down and a lot of those nulls go away.
I think it's dangerous to overpower a unit as you can and will miss targets. It is really ground dependent.
I have found many coins at 8" or so in manual 30 that I would not have found in auto +3. I have tested this by switching the sensitivity. I'm not saying I didn't lose coins though either!
I do want to get a video of getting a deep coin through a constant null and then seeing if I can hit it in auto +3. Testing for me is the way to go cause even if a lot of people comment here and those comments go in one direction, you really have to apply and try it in your ground.
EMS
I think it's dangerous to overpower a unit as you can and will miss targets. It is really ground dependent.
I have found many coins at 8" or so in manual 30 that I would not have found in auto +3. I have tested this by switching the sensitivity. I'm not saying I didn't lose coins though either!
I do want to get a video of getting a deep coin through a constant null and then seeing if I can hit it in auto +3. Testing for me is the way to go cause even if a lot of people comment here and those comments go in one direction, you really have to apply and try it in your ground.
EMS
TheMarshall
New member
In manual, you can run it 'till the coil smokes,
......................but don't complain if any resulting 'soot' blocks your ears up.
In Auto Sense Plus (ASP), you will find what you deserve,.... and more than you expected,
......................and live a long and happy detecting life!
Whichever you choose,
.................................try standing still once-in-a-while, and THOROUGHLY....I mean VERILY thoroughly, scan the 360 degrees
arc of territory about your last good target recovery, and maybe you will realise just what you miss by detecting in haste.
Best wishes, from TheMarshall...and my dear old horse, Kilo-Hertz.
......................but don't complain if any resulting 'soot' blocks your ears up.
In Auto Sense Plus (ASP), you will find what you deserve,.... and more than you expected,
......................and live a long and happy detecting life!
Whichever you choose,
.................................try standing still once-in-a-while, and THOROUGHLY....I mean VERILY thoroughly, scan the 360 degrees
arc of territory about your last good target recovery, and maybe you will realise just what you miss by detecting in haste.
Best wishes, from TheMarshall...and my dear old horse, Kilo-Hertz.
Depends on the site conditions.I have some sites that the E-Trac will stay in the single digits in auto +3 and if I run manual much over 12 it becomes almost unusable .I have another site that will hit 31 in auto +3 and will run smooth as silk and extremely deep in manual 30 and I often wonder what it would do if their were a few more points of sensitivity up to say 35 ....
Best thing I have found is to test your setting at your site on a few in ground targets at various depths and find that happy medium between max sensitivity and best stability.Another options is to try various coils at a given site and find what works best for you and your site.
In cleaner sites with very deep coins and milder soil I have ran maxed out and done very well so I feel every thing is site related when it comes to optimum performance.A lower stable setting is much quieter and recovers faster from target to target thus unmasking and IDing better in my test results.
And one must never under estimate the performance of the E-Trac in auto sensitivity with depth being very good at most sites in my experience while the old ears will appreciate the nice quiet only broken by mostly good target signals.
Best thing I have found is to test your setting at your site on a few in ground targets at various depths and find that happy medium between max sensitivity and best stability.Another options is to try various coils at a given site and find what works best for you and your site.
In cleaner sites with very deep coins and milder soil I have ran maxed out and done very well so I feel every thing is site related when it comes to optimum performance.A lower stable setting is much quieter and recovers faster from target to target thus unmasking and IDing better in my test results.
And one must never under estimate the performance of the E-Trac in auto sensitivity with depth being very good at most sites in my experience while the old ears will appreciate the nice quiet only broken by mostly good target signals.
EtracTom-AdirondacksNY
New member
I would say if lets say like here I run in Auto+3 all the time and my sensitivity is around 17-19-even up to 20-21 once in a while. Now if you go run manual say 26-30 that will give so much ear noise from all the chatter from the iron and soil minerals I would go back to Auto+3.
I'm going to try next spring to run manual at the same level as the Auto+3 is showing me and slowly go up from there and see how far I can bump it up till it gets too chattery. I would say if it's 17-18-19 in Auto+3 like usual I would be able to go up to maybe 22-24 in manual and not be too bad off.
In Auto there is 3 channels low, medium, and high (and a 4th is for reading the ground) and they don't all run at the same level so the machine AVERAGES them and that is what your sensitivity number is an AVERAGE setting of the 3.
In Manual all 3 channels will be set to run at that same sensitivity level so I don't think you need to go a whole lot higher in Manual to gain some more good depth or it will be too hot and noisy costing you some good targets.
When I had an Explorer2 I read in Andy's first book I think or maybe the recent one that SEMI AUTO which is how they are set up with 2 channels it will average down but not go higher up on it's own like the Etrac will do so you would never get any higher sensitivity than what you have it set at in Semi. Factory was 16 so I tried 16 manual and it was a constant barrage of sounds. Saw a video on how to set it and you sweep back and forth while starting up high in manual sensitivity and lower it till you had a good smooth fairly stable threshold sound. Well I tried it and ended up at 10-11 in Manual for sensitivity so ran it that way and worked great or I ran it at the factory Semi Auto 16 but was never sure it really was running at.
Maybe it can be done the same way here put the Etrac to the highest Manual sensitivity setting and bump up the threshold sound to an audible level and sweep back and forth after noise canceling and keep lowering manual sensitivity till you get a smooth threshold without a whole bunch of chattering amd see where you end up on your soil. I'll have to try these things out this next year.
Albert's lucky as in Auto +3 he's at 29 or so, so he's only going up 1 level higher to Manual 30 but ALL THREE CHANNELS are now running at that level so there is where he's gaining the extra depth sensitivity from in his soil.
I'm going to try next spring to run manual at the same level as the Auto+3 is showing me and slowly go up from there and see how far I can bump it up till it gets too chattery. I would say if it's 17-18-19 in Auto+3 like usual I would be able to go up to maybe 22-24 in manual and not be too bad off.
In Auto there is 3 channels low, medium, and high (and a 4th is for reading the ground) and they don't all run at the same level so the machine AVERAGES them and that is what your sensitivity number is an AVERAGE setting of the 3.
In Manual all 3 channels will be set to run at that same sensitivity level so I don't think you need to go a whole lot higher in Manual to gain some more good depth or it will be too hot and noisy costing you some good targets.
When I had an Explorer2 I read in Andy's first book I think or maybe the recent one that SEMI AUTO which is how they are set up with 2 channels it will average down but not go higher up on it's own like the Etrac will do so you would never get any higher sensitivity than what you have it set at in Semi. Factory was 16 so I tried 16 manual and it was a constant barrage of sounds. Saw a video on how to set it and you sweep back and forth while starting up high in manual sensitivity and lower it till you had a good smooth fairly stable threshold sound. Well I tried it and ended up at 10-11 in Manual for sensitivity so ran it that way and worked great or I ran it at the factory Semi Auto 16 but was never sure it really was running at.
Maybe it can be done the same way here put the Etrac to the highest Manual sensitivity setting and bump up the threshold sound to an audible level and sweep back and forth after noise canceling and keep lowering manual sensitivity till you get a smooth threshold without a whole bunch of chattering amd see where you end up on your soil. I'll have to try these things out this next year.
Albert's lucky as in Auto +3 he's at 29 or so, so he's only going up 1 level higher to Manual 30 but ALL THREE CHANNELS are now running at that level so there is where he's gaining the extra depth sensitivity from in his soil.
Ray-Mo. said:
Is the difference because of Ground mineralization or rusty Iron and trash content? I've found that I can be auto +3 at 12, then just down the street it'll run in the 20's. What's the difference as far as ground conditions? There are places that I can bury a copper penny at 7" and not hear a peep even with manual sens at 30. Then other places I can dig wheaties at 8"+ in 25 manual sens...
Jason in Enid
Active member
Soil conditions can very greatly even on a single site. Have you ever seen the ground scraped clear? Normaly you can see changes in the ground color throughout the site. Those color changes are changes in ground composition and minerals.
utahshovelhead
Active member
in certian areas I run hot...not all the areas just some.