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Bounty hunter 1100 help?

muddiggedr

New member
Hi, I'm new to all this, but as a gift my wife got me a bounty hunter 1100, now I know its not the top of the line from alot of reading I've done that past few days, but I can't seem to find anyone on here that has an op ion of it one way or the other. Can anyone tell me if its a good starter or not ? I will have it in 4 days from now, and can't wait to get going, but not sure if I'm going to be happy or disappointed. any help would be great. Thanks.
 
Welcome to the forum!

I've used the Outback model, it's very similar to the 1100. I even learned a few new tricks with it. Such as "bobbing" the coil to help ID iron trash or rusty can slaw. I was also able to detect a quarter very near an aluminum can and iron junk and discern the difference between the can and coin, both of which usually gave a high tone, but the can held the tone longer and farther from the coil.

I found a rapid scan actually enhanced depth in my air tests. A quarter gained at least a half inch to an inch in depth by rapidly moving it across the coil. I also noted that smaller targets got a boost in signal strength with a faster sweep. Best depth on most coins in my ground was between 5 and 6 inches.

Like most any other BH detector, when you disc out a segment, it's gone. I really had a hard time sweeping a disced-out target in any way that made the unit false. If a rusty nail made a random mid-tone beep with iron disced-out, for example, the good old bob technique was totally quiet. I'd be pretty certain with that to eliminate digging most nusiance iron.

By using the various levels of discrimination, it was easy to eliminate all but coin signals. Accepting only high tones, I was able to knock out all of my test junk targets, but clearly detect pennies, dimes, quarters and above. This would seem to be an ideal cherry-picking coin-hunting mode; leaving unheard all nails, foil, pulltabs, caps and other common junk items. The loss of nickles and potentially jewelry is a choice we'd each have to make when hunting a given spot.

I could see where, with a little practice, there is much to learn about its responses to various targets. It seems fairly rapid in response and there does seem to be some nuance in tone.

Hope this helps!
-Ed
 
USED MANY BOUNTY HUNTERS AND THIS IS THE ONLY MODEL I DIDNT LIKE
BETTER CHOICE WOULD BE 3300
ANOTHER CHOICE WOULD BE FISHER F2
BOTH MORE DEPTH AND BETTER CHANCE OF GETTING COINS AS THE ID IS MUCH MUCH BETTER
 
Hey Muddigger Welcome to our forum now your forum to.The 1100 is a perfect first detector. It was my first what I think of as a modern detector.It got me hooked on mding and i'm so glad it did.This is a great hobby.The 1100 will detect where detectors costing much more can't.It can get up close to metal play equipt with out falsing.And depth is really not an issue in totlots.Coin id is accurate. Keep us informed of your finds and your new detector.
 
Thanks longbone, FedEx said I'll have it Tue. Dec 18th, ahhhhhh, I can't wait to get it and start learning the tones, and hunting for the rings, coins and the like, I already called and go pr omission to a local state park that I have never seen anyone with a metal detector in years....went out today and bought new headphones for the md.. I will post my first finds and how the 1100 is doing for me asap... thanks guys....
 
Well I got it late today around 6:30pm being it was already dark I just went out in my yard with a head lamp, I have to say this is a nice MD, it did everything it said it would do, it does do any good on pin pointing, but i had my wife pick up a pin pointer on her way home from work today, with the 2 of them together I managed to pull out a quarter at 6'' 2 dimes, 3 Penny's don't know any of the dates yet they need cleaned bad, also a lock, old pull tab, a trap ring and a button, all in about an hour. So far I'm loving it.... can't wait to go to the state park......
 
Hey, not a bad showing for a first-timer! Try pumping the coil instead of sweeping it to help pinpoint. The coil center is right over the target when you get the signal that way. I rely on a pinpointer myself, but the "bob" technique does work well for that and also separating multiple targets and better ID on iron junk that has a jumpy ID. You can add increase depth by maxing out the sensitivity, but if it gets too jumpy, back it down. It might be a basic machine but it's stable, easy to run and gets the job done.

-Ed
 
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