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Bottle Caps, Dealing With Them :surrender:

pacer

Member
Gordon Heritage on "Treasure Talk" makes mention how to deal with "bottle crown caps". By "bottle crown caps" I assume, he means English bottle caps. I can't imagine English bottle caps are all that much different than the bottle caps found here in the USA. In dealing with "bottle crown caps" mention is made to switch to a "User Profile mode" that utilizes a saved mode with a single frequency such as the 10 kHz. So, would it be safe to assume this method would also work with the caps found here in the USA? If so, would it make any difference what your go to program is and/or what the saved mode with the 10 kHz is?
 
greenmeanie said:
What happened to putting it in all metal and backing off listening for the Grunt?
Was it debunked.

No
Both methods work
to me though AM is quicker and easier :thumbup:
 
My experience is, the rusty steel ones, that some refer to as "crown caps," can usually be identified with the "grunt" method, and/or by switching to single frequency and watching for the ID numbers increase (from, say, low teens into low to mid 20s). Meanwhile, the aluminum "screw caps" -- especially smashed ones -- will ring up very much like a coin, and there's no real "trick" that I know of to get rid of those.

Steve
 
Bottle caps=poo!! The steel caps or the multi-metal caps are not to difficult to ID most of the time but like mentioned by sgoss66, those aluminum caps are near impossible to ID. I also have trouble with the beavertail pull tabs. They hit strong and consistent just like a nickel. Push tabs are identifiable most of the time as they sound sketchy.
 
Yeah me too. I use the All Metal trick mostly though I have the user profile ready for the other trick.

I also notice crown tops have a tendency to jump all over the place around 15 and as low as 12 and up to 17-19. Almost always turns out to be a crown top or another piece of junk. I do beaches so not bad digging them up but anywhere else it would be a pain.
 
Bottle caps for me are broken high tones. I had one instance where I dug a super solid 26-27 and it was a Merc... 3 inches down. 10 feet away I got a 23,27,25 and some "grunting" as mentioned above. I was hoping for a masked merc but it was an old rusty bottle cap.:rage:
 
It was nice not digging bottle caps with my Explorer and Etrac. With my non-FBS detectors, most of the time it is faster just to dig them rather than sitting there for minutes on end trying to evaluate what the target IS or IS NOT. Usually they are not extreme deep targets. Usually.

The side benefit is that I just might unmask something beneath the bottle cap.


Rich -
 
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