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BEST REPAIR GLUE?

David

New member
I heard that Loctite Sumo glue was suppose to be good for plastic. I am not impressed with Super Glues--Krazy Glue.

BUT I need some feedback from you detectorists-repairmen-modifiers. What do you people think about this glue below?? Have you heard of it and used it before?? Is there a better glue than these below??

I always need a good glue as I just glued my metal detectors plastic coil ears the other day.

This is suppose to be the best(non 2 part epoxy) glue on the market, and all about same product under different names.

It was Pasco Fix now called Turbobond Powerglue, in Australia.
http://www.turbobond.com.au/
http://www.turbobond.com.au/powerglue.asp

It is also sold as Miracle Glue and The Last Glue, in USA and Canada.
http://www.miracleglue.com/index.htm
http://www.thelastglue.com/

In the USA it is also sold as Lightning Bond.
http://www.lightningbondglue.com/

It is all about the same glue, they do work very well, and all of them are made in Germany and much better than Super Glue or Krazy Glue.

They all contain a highly distilled alpha cyanoacrylate ester and some is medical grade for sealing skin instead of using stitches. Very good for metal, rubber, most plastics, etc.

It is suppose to be the best glue on the market, I heard a person glued his bumper on his vehicle with it.


Read this:
http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Super-Glue-Vs-Miracle-Glue/31685



http://www.pascofix.com/
The Original Pasco Fix!

Industrial Grade German Super Adhesive

If you've ever heard about "German Super Glue" this is the original German-made adhesive that you've been looking for and can now buy!
If you've tried other brands of adhesives like "Super Glue," "Krazy Glue," "Crazy Glue" or other store bought brands, get ready to now be impressed when you try
the Original German Glue - Pasco Fix!

PASCO FIX industrial adhesive is an alphacyano
 
I just found this after I posted the info above:

(Very good GLUE info from Sven and also Evan, and yes Cyanoacrylate is also called CA as a nick name)

Modifications Forum
Fisher 1280X epoxy repair question

http://www.findmall.com/read.php?22,1230606
 
Cyanoacrylate glues are "super glues"
They are all about the same, just some have different properties.
You have your standard concoctions that dry hard that come in:
thin, med. thick, thick and gap filling
They are strong but have low threshold for hard impacts and will shatter.
They are not waterproof, they are water resistant.

Other formulations are made to give them flexible properties for gluing items that shrink,
swell and flex during temperature changes and bent.

Most of the variations of these glues can be found at most hobby shops that cater to
Radio Control boats, planes and cars. Many of the craft stores also carry some of them in smaller containers
and charge 2-3 times what the hobby shop will.

The cyanoacrylate glues are extremely useful and work great if you use them correctly.
I always have a bottle of the med. thickness sitting around with a bottle of spray accelerator. Cheap insurance and
saves a trip to the hospital when slicing open your finger, you can instantly close the wound and will heal without a scar.
Never use the thin formulation for cuts, it cures on contact creating intense heat and never spray it with accelerator, it will smoke
and bubble.

Other useful glues for Detectorists:
JB WELD
PC7
Hobby Lobby PMF
Devcon 30 min 2 part epoxy
Source for glues
 
Over many years I've gravitated to the following; Devcon 5 min if it has to be clear, J.B. Quick for Epoxy and Loctite Black RTV Silicon (really tough but slow), best for most repairs. Gorilla is really strong but expands as it dries, sometimes makes a real mess. I glued a broken chair leg (wood to wood) about 5 years ago and it's still mended. Best, I find is J.B. Weld, but is very slow.
 
I started keeping my tubes of glue in a small jar with tight lid. Inside the jar is a piece of cloth soaked with paint thinner. So far the glue under the caps is not hardening and are easy to unscrew. I started this method recently so don't know of long term results.
 
silversmith said:
Over many years I've gravitated to the following; Devcon 5 min if it has to be clear, J.B. Quick for Epoxy and Loctite Black RTV Silicon (really tough but slow), best for most repairs. Gorilla is really strong but expands as it dries, sometimes makes a real mess. I glued a broken chair leg (wood to wood) about 5 years ago and it's still mended. Best, I find is J.B. Weld, but is very slow.
have you tried JB Kwik it sets up in 20 minutes, and of course, full cure in 24 hours......NGE
 
Plastic weld it with a soldering iron I fix all plastics with a soldering iron. Go on Utube and u can see how its done. Good Luck, Dave
 
I use PVC Cement on all kinds of plastics around the house. Haven't had an opportunity to use it on my detectors yet; but I am positive it would work. It actually fuses "plastic to plastic.":super:
 
Unfortunately all plastics are not the same so results may vary...I have a small hardware store near me and a lot of info and hard to find parts are available..Gorilla Glue great for many things but not metal...I doubt if all metal detector manufacturers use the same plastic surely comes to mind...and make sure you give it a day or two to harden whatever you use....
 
and mister glue as well", ?
when i tries to glue repair sole of my rubber shoes had best results with gorilla and loctite professional super glue liquids ,anyway now am interested foe best glue to glue plastic to plastic ,the kind plastic used in file dividers ,any suggestions ?
 
I did a repair on my Dual Field coil ears a couple of years ago with Shoe Goop and have never looked back!!

I later glued a pad on the top of the same coil the same way and after over a year everything is still tight!

Not may hunters stress their equipment the way I do and Goop has been a real winner!!

GL,

Cupajo
 
I use 'Q-Bond' on just about anything plastic or aluminum.
It costs about $7-$10 at your local auto parts store or Sears. (The link is to the 'professional size', $27)
It's based on cyanoacrylate glue and reinforcing powder. I have even repaired threads with this stuff... Can be drilled and tapped, sanded, painted, even machined.
You sprinkle the powder where you want it and add a drop or two of super glue and it solidifies instantly. Cool stuff.
 
guys go to lighting bonds website.. I am a gunsmith and use this stuff all the time I recommend the 55 dollar kit you will have it for years of use, the owners name is Harry Ness when you call him to place your order tell him Jeremy the gunsmith from Louisville Kentucky told you to call and he will give you a 10% discount.. I was sold on this stuff by Harry himself at one of our local gunshows, he took a used dirty belt off of a car and cut it in half, he then places activator on one side and a single drop of glue on the other about the size of a pinhead and then put the two ends together for 5 seconds and proceeded to hand me the belt. He told me if I could get it apart he would GIVE me 10 free kits of glue!! Long story short I purchased the glue got nothing FREE..LOL anyhow it is a great product it also comes with a bottle of like fiberglass resin, say you have a whole with threads that are stripped out, you can fill it with resin and then add glue it sets in 30 seconds and its as hard as steel or concrete, you can drill and tap this stuff. I use it on gunwork all the time it is AMAZING
 
I still like 2-step epoxy and GOOP.

TC-NM
 
JB Weld has steel in it! I found this out when I was gluing some super magnets together for a meteor stick. The JB Weld liquid flowed toward the magnets.
 
Sven, nailed it. JB WELD. and I've also found loctites plastic epoxy works really well. very pleased with that one.
 
Try Marine TeX http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2088&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=marine_tex_epoxy

Best stuff for small repairs seals waterproofs...
 
If your using Super Glues (CA). The most popular used by model hobbists, sold at Hobby Shops are made by Bob Smith Industries.
They have various thickness and use types of CA glues. You do want a bottle of accelerator spray handy to speed up curing of all the CA's but the
thin version. By the way, I have used med. thickness and accel spray to stitch up deep hobby knife cuts.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

Another excellent adhesive is Marine Goop, can be found at Walmart.
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/marine.htm

When it comes to clear a 2-part epoxy, I prefer Devcon, 5 minute or 2 ton http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=179. Bob Smith brand second choice. Which I use for model building.

For an industrial strength bond paste type epoxy JB Weld is number one, this stuff works wonders. Everyone needs to have this stuff on hand.
http://www.jbweld.com/

For laminating, gluing, or making items with fiberglass cloth. Smoothon Apoxmite 100 is my favorite.
http://www.smooth-on.com/Laminating-Epoxies/c1335_1336/index.html

With the above mentioned glues, there's almost nothing you can't repair.
 
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