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Battery Question

Battery Question about the Teknetics G2+ Detector. Regular energizer and Duracell don t last a day before power is down 1/3. Is Lithium too much for G2? What batteries do
you guys recommend for long lasting hunting?
Thanks
 
Wow! Don’t have a g2 but several FT products. All my units get 20+ hours usually. Something is draining your batteries.
 
Never had that problem with any F.T. product. Yes, something is draining them. Remember, don't trust electrons. They are sneaky.
 
woody wrote:

... "Remember, don't trust electrons. They are sneaky."

Yep, they have a real negative attitude and they keep looking for something positive to go to.

My Omega 8000 version 6 gets an easy 20 hours on its battery, and my earlier Gamma 6000 did so too. No problem of any kind.

Cheers,

Joe
 
My F19's have always done that. After about 2-3 hours of use, one of the 3 led segments goes off indicating 2/3 power. Then it stays like that for about 8-10 hours before eventually losing another notch to 1/3. No worries. It can get approx. 15 hours+ just like the manual indicates.

If you are using the back light or external speaker it will of course drain the batteries quicker. I've been using regular Duracell copper tops. I have not tried Lithium but the rechargeable Ni-Mh batteries will work quite well even though mine will only have half the life of a regular alkaline when fully charged.
 
Batteries of different chemistry isn't a problem!, nor are different batteries mah rating.
The more or less current rating doesn't change the amount of current flowing through the device.
BUT if some type of higher voltage rated battery is fitted into a device that's rated to operate at the lower voltage
then the higher voltage will increase the current flow.
Higher current rated batteries of the some voltage rating is really just more current reserve (run time) as compared
to the lower current counter part. (cold cranking amp rating of a car battery is along the same concept)

Now, back to the rapid battery consumption problem, or possible problem!
If there is something actually drawing excess power from the batteries and its not random then It would play out in a
actual usable operation time you get before the detector prompts you with a Low Battery Warning.
If you can actually get two to three hunts with each hunt being of several hours then I wouldn't do anything.
My thought would be that the battery charge level indicator's FULL reading isn't spot on in its calculation.
What I mean is that its possible that the full charged is supposed to be displayed at lets say 1.59v and not indicate
any battery drop until 1.4v this would give the display the illusion that the batteries are holding there topped off voltage
really well, but if the upper range of the display drops seeming fast then the electronic markers are to inline.
So, this may even happen, lets say you put in a fresh set of batteries, meaning unused and still with an outstanding date on them.
But, there maybe actually two years old from their actual production date. Just a reference numbering (like the other numbers in this comment)
lets say the batteries voltage's going into the unit is 1.575 when you turn on your detector it has NEW usable batteries in it, but your battery
charge indicator is one segment shy of full charged new batteries. Its likely I could take those same batteries and install them in my unit and the
battery display on mine would show full charge.
Its like the electronic fuel gauge in your car, some has way more miles that you can drive before the gauge moves off full, but seems to move
more rapid on the rest of its scale, well that's probably the more normal, BUT! I had one car that when filled to the cap and in under 20 mile the gauge
would be at the lower edge of full. So, all these cars got GOOD fuel economy but It took me a long time to use to NOT being able to get it home
with the fuel gauge at full.
The tank full point (marker) and the fuel gauge fuel full marker had different alignment references in there match as compared to the "Norm"
So, the test in these vehicles would be pretty much the same for your detector and its fuel consumption.
With the more miles at full car and I drive 338 miles, on 17 gallons of fuel and the low fuel indicator comes on,
and I drive the same type and style car with the lower miles on full and drive it 338 on 17 gallons of fuel then both vehicles are doing what they're
supposed to do.
So, how many actual run time hour in total can you get and out of what brand and type of battery?
And you need to use as much of the total battery charge indicator scale as possible, not just the first one or two segments.

Here is a short true story that happened to me. I had Ron order me a Fisher brand detector (used one) and he used his mailing address, so when he got it
I had him put the two required 9v batteries in it and do a power up test (just as an of of the box QUICK test). well he did that and he contacts me and says,
"I got that detector and put batteries in it, it powers up but it just rings like a telephone ringing"
Well I contact the guy I got it from and inform with what was going on, he told he had NEVER heard it just ring like a telephone, he says, get it and get it home and put NEW batteries
in it and let him know what happens.
The bottom line, Ron didn't have a set of NEW batteries he just removed a set from his CZ-5 which its battery indicator showed them at a GOOD state of charge.
The fix came with installing new batteries, the Coin$trike's ringing like a telephone was its LOW BATTERY AUDIO WARNING.

MarkCZ
 
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