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Battery average time on the Explorer
- Thread starter Waterdog
- Start date
The electronics does not work that way based on half a battery charge. The detector has a voltage regulator and the voltage is not going to be a problem at half charge. What we are seeing on the Voltage indicator is how much charge is left. That is not the same as how much voltage. This can be compared to indicating how much water is left in a glass. The glass is half full and the water drinks just fine as it did when the glass was full.
I have run mine down to where the detector sounds the alarm that the battery needs to be replaced with no problems. .
I have run mine down to where the detector sounds the alarm that the battery needs to be replaced with no problems. .
Big Boys Hobbies
Well-known member
I was trying to get the last bit of battery out of mine tonight as the sun was going down and got the whump whump sound of a dead battery for the first time. Time to pop in the rechargeables....lol
bing! (L.A.)
New member
A standard AA size alkaline battery has around 780 mah of capacity (DURACELL, ENERGIZER). An average AA nimh battery has 2000 mah of capacity. That is almost 3 times as much energy.
The alkaline battery will have a higher voltage at rest when new. But under load, the nimh will hold its voltage better. Also, given the higher capacity that nimhs cells have, the average voltage of the nimh will be higher than the alkalines.
The only draw back to using nimhs cells is that you will need a good peak detecting charger to avoid overcharging. Wallchargers are only as good as the timing abilities of the operator. Overcharging reduces capacity and performance. Discharging nimhs cell to below 1 volt also reduces capacity. A damaged nimh cell will have a high self discharge rate. That is when an nimh cell looses its charge when not in use. I am a geek.
/bing
The alkaline battery will have a higher voltage at rest when new. But under load, the nimh will hold its voltage better. Also, given the higher capacity that nimhs cells have, the average voltage of the nimh will be higher than the alkalines.
The only draw back to using nimhs cells is that you will need a good peak detecting charger to avoid overcharging. Wallchargers are only as good as the timing abilities of the operator. Overcharging reduces capacity and performance. Discharging nimhs cell to below 1 volt also reduces capacity. A damaged nimh cell will have a high self discharge rate. That is when an nimh cell looses its charge when not in use. I am a geek.
/bing
Ace
Member
Just one thing, NiMh batteries don't have memory characteristics and it doesn't matter if they're overcharged, you can leave them one month and the batteries won't be damaged nor destroyed (I've tried it), but of course it wouldn't be a good idea in case of a shortcircuit, NiCad batteries are the ones with memory characteristics, it's not a good idea to charge them without discharging them first completely, nor is it a good idea to overcharge them. However, overcharging batteries is never a smart thing to do, so avoid it.
For the record on batteries.
One of my other hobbies is competative R/C car racing, and flying. Batteries have become a real science due to the competative nature. For those of you wanting to use NIMH's, I would suggest purchasing a good battery charger or recycler such as those that we use at the track. Unlike the "wall warts", we are able to charge / discharge cells, as well as fine tune the amperage, delta peak, etc. Bottom line is that you are able to fully charge up to 8 cells in 30 - 45 minutes without overcharge. These computerized chargers also will extend the life of the cells. Prices vary from $50.00 to $500.00 depedant on your needs. I always hit the field with a fresh charge, as well as a backup set just in case. When I return, I discharge and recharge the "in use" set, and install the backup set so as to get even cell useage.
Some good chargers to consider would be the "Pulsar", Duratrax "ICE", and Great Planes "Triton". All of these are higher end battery management systems priced from $110 - $150. They are capable of charging / managing several cell types including lithium polymer (LIPO) cells. All of them work off of a 12 volt input, so you can charge out in the field. At home or trackside we connect them to a 12V. power supply.
One of my other hobbies is competative R/C car racing, and flying. Batteries have become a real science due to the competative nature. For those of you wanting to use NIMH's, I would suggest purchasing a good battery charger or recycler such as those that we use at the track. Unlike the "wall warts", we are able to charge / discharge cells, as well as fine tune the amperage, delta peak, etc. Bottom line is that you are able to fully charge up to 8 cells in 30 - 45 minutes without overcharge. These computerized chargers also will extend the life of the cells. Prices vary from $50.00 to $500.00 depedant on your needs. I always hit the field with a fresh charge, as well as a backup set just in case. When I return, I discharge and recharge the "in use" set, and install the backup set so as to get even cell useage.
Some good chargers to consider would be the "Pulsar", Duratrax "ICE", and Great Planes "Triton". All of these are higher end battery management systems priced from $110 - $150. They are capable of charging / managing several cell types including lithium polymer (LIPO) cells. All of them work off of a 12 volt input, so you can charge out in the field. At home or trackside we connect them to a 12V. power supply.
shawnv(or)
New member
ACE wrote "NiMh batteries don't have memory characteristics and it doesn't matter if they're overcharged, you can leave them one month and the batteries won't be damaged nor destroyed (I've tried it), but of course it wouldn't be a good idea in case of a short circuit"
Not True. It may not immediately ruin the cells but it will certainly ruin them. Ace in your defense the Nimh are better then the nicad's but will only take overcharging ?? times before problems.
NIMH under good charging routines using a good Delta peak charger won't develop a memory but repeated overcharging and trickle charging without proper discharging will seriously shorten the life of the cells.
I too was into competitive RC racing and have the Great Planes Triton charger I have had Nimh and Nicad batteries over a decade that still give good performance.
I have a friend that has a explorerII and he buy alkalines by the hundreds, I have asked why he doesn't use the Nimh, his comment is that their junk and has nothing put problems with them. He has admitted to lack of a good charging routine. I told him about my charger and he gave me a bag of NIMH cells that he thought were junk and out of 24 cells I could only revive 6 of them using a multiple charge /discharge algorithm. On the contrary I have had the same 1600's Nimh for three years. I just bought some 2200's for my new EX II.
The charger makes all the difference.
Happy Hunting
Shawnv(OR)
Not True. It may not immediately ruin the cells but it will certainly ruin them. Ace in your defense the Nimh are better then the nicad's but will only take overcharging ?? times before problems.
NIMH under good charging routines using a good Delta peak charger won't develop a memory but repeated overcharging and trickle charging without proper discharging will seriously shorten the life of the cells.
I too was into competitive RC racing and have the Great Planes Triton charger I have had Nimh and Nicad batteries over a decade that still give good performance.
I have a friend that has a explorerII and he buy alkalines by the hundreds, I have asked why he doesn't use the Nimh, his comment is that their junk and has nothing put problems with them. He has admitted to lack of a good charging routine. I told him about my charger and he gave me a bag of NIMH cells that he thought were junk and out of 24 cells I could only revive 6 of them using a multiple charge /discharge algorithm. On the contrary I have had the same 1600's Nimh for three years. I just bought some 2200's for my new EX II.
The charger makes all the difference.
Happy Hunting
Shawnv(OR)
Hi
This might be a slight deviation to the subject, I have spoken with the minlab tech in Adelaide due to my detector switching itself off and on periodically (see string).
An interesting question asked by him was do you leave your batteries in the detector when you store it, my answer was yes.
He seems to think that this may be the cause of my problems.
He suggests that I have a faulty top board and is replacing as we speak.
This might be a slight deviation to the subject, I have spoken with the minlab tech in Adelaide due to my detector switching itself off and on periodically (see string).
An interesting question asked by him was do you leave your batteries in the detector when you store it, my answer was yes.
He seems to think that this may be the cause of my problems.
He suggests that I have a faulty top board and is replacing as we speak.
shawnv(or)
New member
Dennis
you can store the NImh batteries at any charge(probably best if stored discharged)but, the key is to discharge completely before charging. When I play with my RC trucks after a long storage I charge and discharge 2-3 times before running them. I know that 120 dollars is a lot to spend on a charger and chances are that if I wasn't into this other hobby I wouldn't have this charger but it is worth every penny. It will charge everything including lead acid and li-po. I have three 6-cell packs of 1500scr Nicads that have been used over ten years and still work great. You can get peak chargers cheaper than what I paid. Heat is the killer of rechargeable batteries, overcharging cause's heat. My charger has a temp probe that will cutoff charging at a preset level. it takes some discipline to keep your NIcad ,Nimh in top shape. But in the long they are way more cost effective.
Happy Hunting
Shawnv(OR)
you can store the NImh batteries at any charge(probably best if stored discharged)but, the key is to discharge completely before charging. When I play with my RC trucks after a long storage I charge and discharge 2-3 times before running them. I know that 120 dollars is a lot to spend on a charger and chances are that if I wasn't into this other hobby I wouldn't have this charger but it is worth every penny. It will charge everything including lead acid and li-po. I have three 6-cell packs of 1500scr Nicads that have been used over ten years and still work great. You can get peak chargers cheaper than what I paid. Heat is the killer of rechargeable batteries, overcharging cause's heat. My charger has a temp probe that will cutoff charging at a preset level. it takes some discipline to keep your NIcad ,Nimh in top shape. But in the long they are way more cost effective.
Happy Hunting
Shawnv(OR)
bing! (L.A.)
New member
when a nicad or a regular battery is left in an electronic device, there are times when the chemicals in the batteries leach into the wire and makes its way onto the electronics board. this really messes things up. Noticeably, the negative terminal of the battery case will have some white stuff building up on it, or in early cases, a liquid substance. check it out.
cheap alkalines have also been known to cause the problem.
/bing
cheap alkalines have also been known to cause the problem.
/bing
bing! (L.A.)
New member
NICDS like being stored in a fully discharge state (almost 0V).
NIMH experience deterioration when stored in a fully discharged state (below 0.9-1V/cell). Do not use NIMH to below the previously stated voltage. This will reduce their capacity by breaking down its internal composition. When you do experience a full discharge, top them off a little before storage. Otherwise, you can store them after every use.
You can charge an nimh at any point of its discharge cycle, but to get the maximum capacity, best to do a discharge to 1V/cell and then do a peak charge.
One uses so many batteries in life these days that it pays to invest in a good charger. The previously mentioned TRITON charger is a good example. You save money, and the enviroment too.
NIMH experience deterioration when stored in a fully discharged state (below 0.9-1V/cell). Do not use NIMH to below the previously stated voltage. This will reduce their capacity by breaking down its internal composition. When you do experience a full discharge, top them off a little before storage. Otherwise, you can store them after every use.
You can charge an nimh at any point of its discharge cycle, but to get the maximum capacity, best to do a discharge to 1V/cell and then do a peak charge.
One uses so many batteries in life these days that it pays to invest in a good charger. The previously mentioned TRITON charger is a good example. You save money, and the enviroment too.
Jeff In North Georgia
Member
I use a standard alkiline pack stuffed with Eveready 2500s. I don't take the batteries out of the pack to charge them. I use a MH-C777 PlusII charger. It will discharge them and recharge them quickly. Also includes a car adapter. The contacts can be adjusted to fit the pack's output contacts. You can also use it to charge your rechargeable packs also. Charger is $69 + S&H.
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/mh-c777plus.htm
Jeff
http://www.thomas-distributing.com/mh-c777plus.htm
Jeff
It seems as if there are a couple of us MD'ers who also share the R/C Hobby. For the record, NiCad cells should be stored in a discharged state at .3V per cell. NiMh cells should be stored in a fully charged condition, and "topped off" after 6 months or better yet fully cycled. Both type of cells should be stored in a cool place. I'm sure that my fellow R/C'ers will concurr.