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Auto sensitivity or manual???

WV62

Well-known member
I have been running the E-Trac for a couple of years now coin hunting. I don't have a good handle on which is best for the deeper silver coins.

So I thought I would check and see what some of guys think. The soil conditions here are pretty mild, and the trash is on high side.

Ron in WV
 
my machine usually runs 22- 25 auto. I run 24-28 manual. you will pick up an inch or two running manual. ive checked a lot of signals both ways manual is definitely better. the only time I run auto plus 3 is when the threshold is constantly nulling it will calm the machine down some.
 
In my soil and thunder coil setup I always run auto +3 as manual never runs smooth for me when I turn it up at all.
I regularly dig pin pointer length coins and much deeper so depth has never been an issue.
In auto +3 I get many targets which are partially masked by nails/on edge next to junk and don't want to lose getting some of those subtle signals
by trying to run hotter and slightly more unstable.
Just my 2 cents..

Dave
 
Thanks guys, little different take on the sensitivity, but both of are telling me that I have been running a little low at auto no +-. My auto no +- runs about 19 to 22 and the machine runs smooth.
When I first got the machine and had no clue what I was doing and I was running pretty close to max in manual and I was finding some pretty nice silver but the machine had so much chatter I thought I would try auto. Then the silver seemed to be all gone.
Also thanks for the tip on constantly nulling being a sign of to high of a sensitivity setting.

Sounds like I have fishing with no bait on my hook.LOL

Next trip out I will be pushing up the sensitivity a little.

Ron in WV
 
One thing I often do is see where my sensitivity will be running in Auto +3. Say it is 19, I will then switch it to manual and run it a couple numbers higher at 21 or so as long as the threshold is relatively stable and not nulling out too badly. If it will not run stable, I will at least run it in manual at the same number as Auto +3. I have tested it and it goes deeper in MY conditions running in manual even if it is at the same number as it was running in Auto.

One other thing, high sensitivity is, of course, not the only thing that will cause the threshold to null out. Iron will obviously cause that as well. If you are having a nulling problem switch over to a completely open screen wide open and see how much iron is in the ground. If there is a lot, I would run in Auto, switch to 2 tone ferrous and slow way down or better yet switch to a smaller coil. That way you can pick items out between the iron. The E-Trac is actually quite good at that. You just have to swing slow.

Another thing I do if I get an iffy signal in Auto +3, I will switch over to manual and check the signal with that. Often times, the signal will become clearer and/or stronger. There's my 3 cents! lol Greg
 
All good stuff, that gives me a nickel plus on advise.LOL

That sounds like a good idea for starting the manual sensitivity settings. I have the 5" Sunray and I was thinking with the better understanding on sensitivity I may be able to get a little more out of that coil. I have found coins with it but nothing like deep silver.

Switching from auto to manual over a good target seems like a good way to get a feel for how much manual sensitivity.

Ron in WV
 
OK correct me here where my thinking goes south.

I run in Auto +3 and generally sensitivity shows to be 22. So would that mean the dominant frequency is going to be 22 + 3 or 25? So, what is to be gained, if anything, by running a manual 25?

It would seem to me having one prominent frequency at 25 sensitivity would do a better job, at least in accurate ID, than the detector trying to analyze 3 frequencies two of which are not as responsive as the one.

I ask because I have yet to find a single deep coin that would hit any better in manual than in Auto +3. I ran my manual at 26. It seemed less stable and the target ID less accurate.

Thanks
 
I have learned to be careful regarding this subject because all soils and levels of soil contamination are different. Auto+3 has always produced MORE COINS. Deeper? Probably not,at least around here.
 
Lots of trash auto+3......But for DEEP...manual 26...Gain at 19..to tell how deep....If you have been using the e-trac a long time Manual all the time..and just listen through the noise!
 
IDXMonster said:
I have learned to be careful regarding this subject because all soils and levels of soil contamination are different. Auto+3 has always produced MORE COINS. Deeper? Probably not,at least around here.

I agree, which I was why I even capitalized MY conditions in what I wrote. As they like to say in the small print, results may vary. :)
 
Southwind said:
OK correct me here where my thinking goes south.

I run in Auto +3 and generally sensitivity shows to be 22. So would that mean the dominant frequency is going to be 22 + 3 or 25? So, what is to be gained, if anything, by running a manual 25?

It would seem to me having one prominent frequency at 25 sensitivity would do a better job, at least in accurate ID, than the detector trying to analyze 3 frequencies two of which are not as responsive as the one.

I ask because I have yet to find a single deep coin that would hit any better in manual than in Auto +3. I ran my manual at 26. It seemed less stable and the target ID less accurate.

Thanks

All I was relaying is my experience in my location and with my conditions. I have often gotten a clearer and more solid hit in manual than Auto when switching between them. Many times I have gotten very faint and iffy signals in Auto and then switched to Manual at the same level and it was clearer and more definite. That's my story, with my machine and in my area and I'm sticking to it. :) Greg
 
Here I go getting myself in trouble again, I just air tested auto +- 0 and at the same setting in manual sensitivity.

Just using the 5" coil that I had on the stick I set the detector to auto +- 0 and it locked on at 16 sensitivity in the air, so I set manual to 16 and then I put a silver dime in front of the coil.

With auto +- 0, I was hitting the dime at 4.25".
Then with manual sensitivity at 16, I was hitting the dime at 5.25"

So that tells me that manual sensitivity for some reason does add depth at the same sensitivity setting.

Thanks guys for getting me to thinking how to test the machine. I will be giving manual sensitivity a try again.

Ron in WV
 
Hi Ron,

Manual and Auto work differently:

Auto sets each of the three frequency channels (L,M,&H) independently based upon the external reference the detector picks up for each of the separate channels. That being so, the Auto setting is going to give different results from site to site, area to area and time from time, and noise cancel settings will play into this as well. This also makes any air testing results in Auto location and time specific.

Manual sets all three channels (L,M, and H) to the same setting. That is why the detector runs noisier in Manual than Auto.

HH
Mike
 
Hi Southwind,
The sensitivity number in Auto is the "average" of the three channels. You don't know which channel is the dominate channel.

HH
Mike
 
I enjoy the threads and conversations that have to do with someone trying to UNDERSTAND how to get more “performance” out of their machine immensely. Being an avid student of the hobby,I am always trying to pay attention to how those fringe/weaker/not definitely something I want to dig targets respond. In many of my sites,common sense tells me that there are coins deeper than what my current skills allow me to retrieve. I know this because a bit of construction here and there takes away some soil and magically,now I can reach a few coins,tokens,etc. The issue I’ve always had with Manual Sensitivity on my Explorer2,especially if I’m able to run it stable above 23-24,is that the junk items that the machine would normally simply disc out or alert me with a broken/raspy/don’t dig me up signal start to sound and act very much like a coin. Even using the Smart Screen they start creeping up the right side of the screen,or creeping to the right from the far top left. I do not have the luxury of spending hours upon hours digging EVERYTHING with ANY kind of indication,which is WHY I’ll normally run Manual Sensitivity at 22 or below if I do run it,no matter if I CAN run it higher and still be stable. 23-24 seems to be where the “turbo” kicks in and the processor really starts letting stuff through. The problem is...very very VERY rarely have I found an abnormally deep coin that wouldn’t hit in Semi Auto,when I cross checked. Unfortunately,that hasn’t been very often,so scientific findings are hard to come by in this post. Sweep speed for ME has been a critical issue,on a 9” dime not all speeds will get it every time. Sometimes it’s rather slow,other times it might take a pretty fast sweep to make it respond in the way that I know it’s not just a false. I just use 2 coils on the EX2 now when I take it for a walk,the X-8 and Ultimate 13. I have said before and continue to say...the X-8 for FBS is quite possibly the best overall coil made for any machine at any time by anyone anywhere. For one,it does everything very well...depth,separation,maneuverability (yes,I have spell check ON,I couldn’t spell that by myself),accurate crisp audio response,accurate ID.....it’s ALL good. But even when I crank the sens too high with IT...bad targets have a habit of starting to sound better. That’s why I said,Semi Auto nets me more COINS,and quite possibly all the coins Im going to see in that particular area with that machine. Running “hot” for me has been detrimental more than once! When I’m listening for those deep coins...the telltale “chirp” and the proper duration,having a machine that’s going helter skelter isn’t going to help ME one iota. There really is an art to hunting deep with the Explorers and eTrac,a friend of mine does it SO well that when I’m with him using my CTX, I know I have very little chance of out hunting him,all targets being the same or very similar in composition,depth and such. He has many years of constant hunting to thank for what he can do,and that’s using the stock coil. The key is...if you are to become very experienced at hunting very deep coins,it must be all but absolutely CERTAIN that the site holds these coins! You must have multiple targets in the span of time which allows you to remember how that coin reacted,what the audio was like,readings,etc. There must be a base to build on. If every target is a “one off”,there is no continuity in the learning process,and it’s all basically brand new when you do happen to run across a deep target every other week. It must be more consistent than that,and it starts with the proper site. Once the skills are engrained and automatic...the site matters less and less.
Just my rambling thoughts and experiences with this topic....
 
Set your AUTO to +3 and that is the highest it will let it run in auto and be smooth by looking at the ground and comparing the average of the 3 bins/channels. low med high.

So if you see like 21 showing that is the best of the 3 compared bins/channels average where the machine wants to run and still be smooth.

It's not 21 and then +3 making it 24. It's 21 sensitivity only. Back it down to just 0 on AUTO no +, no - , just 0 and sweep some for a bit and the number will be lower as that is the sensitivity the machine averages see's from comparing the 3 bins. +1 will be more and + 2 will be even more and +3 will be the best and highest sensitivity. If you go Auto -1 ,-2,-3 it keeps lowering the sensitivity down even more I don't recommend ever using this settings at least not in my area never had to do it.

Manual it don't average it sets all 3 bins to that same level and runs there forcing them to all run hotter despite what the machine see's.

I usually pretty much run Auto+3 Trash High so it signals on good targets near trash supposed to help it ignore the trash and Ground DIFFICULT. My ground here is like almost 90 on other machines when ground balancing is done.
They also found if you didn't do ground difficult it didn't hit large silver some kind of glitch or snafu with the machine someone discovered. Wether that is still true or got fixed don't know. I got my Etrac early on after they came out.

The Auto + numbers aren't frequencies and have nothing to do with that. If you go to manual and get a better reading it may be that the object is deep and at that depth in YOUR soil where AUTO +3 is pushing the limits of it's capabilities.

If I hit really deep coins almost maxing out the depth gauge all my machine does is make a thunk sound in AUTO+3 was a deep 11"indian head. Good numbers if I remember right but only a tunk tunk as I swept over it.
 
Thanks E-Trac Tom, some pretty good nuggets of information in your post.
I tested mine with the different ground settings and big silver, it hit well on both settings.
I was hunting today and I got a bit of high tone and then the thunk, I remembered your post and pushed the grass down and got a little better high tone. I dug the target and it turned out to be 1919 wheat penny at about 8" with the 5" Sunray coil.

Ron in WV
 
I was tutored in FBS by a stellar Explorer veteran, and running manual was pressed as needed. I trust manual, had lots of fun in manual. Changed my detecting world.
 
I was able to try Greg's method below last weekend and it resulted in a very deep silver coin. I had my NEL Thunder coil.
I was running Auto +3 at a site where I had pulled a couple halves and a few silver dimes this year. My sensitivity in auto was running at 22.
I bumped up the sensitivity to 25 manual and hit a repeatable signal that was close to burying the depth gauge. It didn't even sound like a coin but more like a real deep piece of thick wire or piece
of brass that I will sometimes chase so I wasn't real excited about digging it but I did.
I switched back to Auto +3 and swept the signal. I could still just barely hear it but the signal was very hollow and I probably wouldn't have dug that one. In the Manual 25 it was more of a solid signal in this case.
Out popped a 1923 D mercury dime at a measured 11.5 inches.
I Got to thank Greg for that one!

Dave



cz70pro said:
One thing I often do is see where my sensitivity will be running in Auto +3. Say it is 19, I will then switch it to manual and run it a couple numbers higher at 21 or so as long as the threshold is relatively stable and not nulling out too badly. If it will not run stable, I will at least run it in manual at the same number as Auto +3. I have tested it and it goes deeper in MY conditions running in manual even if it is at the same number as it was running in Auto.

One other thing, high sensitivity is, of course, not the only thing that will cause the threshold to null out. Iron will obviously cause that as well. If you are having a nulling problem switch over to a completely open screen wide open and see how much iron is in the ground. If there is a lot, I would run in Auto, switch to 2 tone ferrous and slow way down or better yet switch to a smaller coil. That way you can pick items out between the iron. The E-Trac is actually quite good at that. You just have to swing slow.

Another thing I do if I get an iffy signal in Auto +3, I will switch over to manual and check the signal with that. Often times, the signal will become clearer and/or stronger. There's my 3 cents! lol Greg
 
It's not 21 and then +3 making it 24. It's 21 sensitivity only.

Um... doesn't seem right. So you're saying my 22 auto is as hot as 25 manual? I get the same depth, air test, using 22 +3 auto as I get using 25 manual? Actually I'd even go as far to say better depth because 22 in auto +3 sounds better than manual 25.
 
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