ATX - in salt and fresh water MY EXPERIENCE

[WaterWalker]

The weakest point IMO with the ATX is that silt and ocean salt become a binding problem not only between the sliding shafts but within the cam locks. At least there will be no corrosion issues.
Silt and ocean salt has caused binding in just a couple of hours. So much to the point two rubber strap Grip Wrenches (they will not leave marks on the shafts, if used properly) had to be employed to get the largest cam lock loose. I had detected for 3 hours, rinsed the shafts and sprayed fresh water into the cams with a drink bottle that had a pull out spout on it. That gave a pretty good spray, but even after all I did at the beach, the upper (largest) cam froze up during the hour trip home. One thing you do not want to do (IMO) with the ATX is to try to hold the control box and twist the cams. I believe that action might be detrimental to the small locking lever (IMO another weak point) that holds the upper shaft from turning and locking in 90 degree positions. Therefore, when I use rubber Grip Wrenches I put one on the cam I want to loosen and the second on the shaft section closer to the control box and apply torque to only the wrenches

 

[Wandering Yoda]

Very good write up WaterWalker, good stuff to know, thank you!!

 

[John-Edmonton]

I will also use the ATX as my main water detector, especially because of the iron ID feature. It's going to save me a lot of digging in my freshwater lakes,

 

[Syd BC]

Good report WaterWalker. I have been detecting in fresh water but have the same issues with sand and silt getting into the cams, and I to have noticed that when turning hard on the cams that the small locking lever becomes stressed to the point where I was afraid that it might break. Today before leaving the lake, I submerged the detector and twisted the cams left and right until I felt that the sand was out. When I got home I extended the shafts and dried them with a clean towel until they moved in and out smoothly. This detector is high maintenance but you have to do it.

I have been using the solid coil cover that came with the detector. It's not ideal but I can live with it until an open coil cover is available. Sand builds up between the bottom of the coil and the coil cover so I take it off and rinse it before going out.

I totally agree that this detector is producing a better response on deeper targets, compared to my other detectors. In the short time that I have had it, it has detected three small gold items at great depth. My only problem now is to learn how to deal with the tiny pieces of tin foil and small wire and nails that it responds to at depth.

This is not a detector for covering large areas in a short time, I have slowed to a crawl, but it will be my detector of choice where targets are deep and few.

 

[Old California]

Hello WW,

I feel you pain on the lower shaft been there done that, But here's a suggestion and it works great even removes some of the fine scratches from the shaft.

Started using a wheel cleaner (Meguiar's Natural Shine Protectant) and it works great!, Not only does it remove scratches it lubricates the shaft and locking collars in fact my shafts look like new again no trace of scratches.

Grab you a bottle, You won't regret it

Paul (Ca)

 

[WaterWalker]

Morning OC
That is something I never thought of as a "lubricant".
All the oils, greases, silicons etc which leave a film tend to "hold on to" the silt, especially in places where you can not wipe it off.
I can see how it helps on the shafts and cam lock mating surface, but I question its effectiveness within the cam lock mechanism.
With all the technology the industry has one would think either a manufacturing process or a material could be employed to eliminate problems such as the silt and salt pose.
I have enjoyed reading many of your posts.
Thanks for the recommendation.

 

[Robert2300]

Great wite up. Valuable information.
What stores carry (Meguiar's Natural Shine Protectant). I don't
think I have ever heard of it.
Robt2300

 

[Old California]

Forgot were I purchases this wheel cleaner, Think it was an auto parts store?

But it works

Thanks!
Paul (Ca)

 

[John-Edmonton]

I remember reading in one of "Charlies" books many years ago to never use any lubricants on metal detectors as the lubricants attract dirt, sand, silt etc. Some of the new Synthetic Polymer waxes might do a better job, as they dry quickly, thinly and very smoothly. But, I am still cautious about adding any chemical to the threads in the cams, as in doing so you are changing the original "fit" setting of the threads.

What might be a better choice altogether is to cover each cam completely with a water proof tape......duct tape, electrical tape or something similar. I actually did try some electrical tape on my cams for a 7 hour fresh water hunt and it did help considerably. But I still removed the electrical tape and cleaned the cams with fresh water. I then loosened all the cams and let the unit dry completely. The next day, the rods slid easily and the cams were not frozen.

 

[Tye]

There are a number of ...dry.... Lubs you could try if you're concerned about attracting and holding dirt.....you might even want to try Slick50 on the shafts...LOL

Cheers,

Tye