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Attn all F75 users new information!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

reidman

New member
Ok if you are like me you have either figured this out on your own or sent the detector back or sold it. When I got my first F75 it was great! it was a sold unit so I didn't have time to do much checking out with it. The next one I got to play around with. Detector was easy to use and got great depth, but it seemed unstable lot of cracks and pops no matter where I was seemed to pick up a lot of iron junk even though it was discriminated out. "So I thought". Well guess what, all of you that like me played around with the notch control, 1 does not necessarily mean no notch it could mean accept iron, yes that
 
I don't mind the noise and I use no disc and do not notch anything out.
 
Silly question. If you hunt with no discrimination or notch. Why would you buy a detector with all the bells and whistles? There are very good non Id detectors such as the Shadow or Tejon. They get great depth.....Jack
 
I also use very little or no disc. and never use notch, either. I want to hear everything in the ground and not take the chance of notching out a potiential good target. I chose the F 75 over the likes of Tesoro, Shadow and other brands and models for its target id, rapid target response, wonderful depth, battery life, various detectiong modes and weight. :hot: HH jim tn
 
I sure do agree Jim, so many reasons for the F75.
 
I used an X5 for a long long time........but the F75 is VERY hard to beat for depth and separation. I hunt with little or no disc 99% of the time too....and despite the "bells and Whistles" do just fine with it! :)
 
Ok if you are like me you have either figured this out on your own or sent the detector back or sold it. When I got my first F75 it was great! it was a sold unit so I didn't have time to do much checking out with it. The next one I got to play around with. Detector was easy to use and got great depth, but it seemed unstable lot of cracks and pops no matter where I was seemed to pick up a lot of iron junk even though it was discriminated out, "So I thought". Well guess what, all of you that like me played around with the notch control, (1) does not necessarily mean no notch it could mean accept iron, yes that
 
There is a no notch setting if you are at 1 it still could be notching in iron, if you dont have a full slash over iron it is notched in.
 
No it doesn't beacuse with notch you can notch in or out, the problem is people dont check the setting if there is a full slash on iron in notch you are fine, if it's no slash or half a slash you are notching in iron.
 
what you are describing is a little bug in the software that when you notch things out (say ...set the notch to two)...and then remove the notch......its doesnt go back to "0" without a reset. When you first start the F75 up.. out of the box......and check the notch setting....it SAYS 1..but its actually at "0". Like I said..........set the notch to anything above 1....and then turn it back down to 1....and THEN its at 1 and wont go any lower than that till you reset the machine. THEN (If you dont do a reset) when you dial your disc up to say tabs...........Iron is actually notched IN. Remember.................the notch setting for any particular target is the reverse of your disc setting. If you have your disc set to max (65)...........and the is a notch slash above any segment....then your notching IN those targets. Turn you disc back to 0.......and then your notching those targets OUT. Soooooooooooooooooooooo...what your describing is the notch STAYING at 1....even when you think you turned it off. That will make iron notched IN if your running your disc above iron.............. and subsequently it will respond to iron targets. A simple reset will rectify the problem.
If it were up to ME..................none of the machines I own would have notch capabilities at all. they are nothing but trouble...................and WILL affect performance on any machine that has it. (when using notch that is). ANYTIME you use disc............you affect depth! I NEVER use notch (why bother when you have an ID machine?), and run a disc setting of 6 or less. I want to hear it all and make the dig/no dig decision MYSELF............and not rely on the machine to make it for me. Streak!
 
For those interested, I posted a few messages on the Dankowski site discussing the Disc./Notch relationship. Basically, they sort of work together but opposite of each other.

When you reset to the factory settings, there is no Notch set and the Disc.is set at 10. This gives you a full slash through the category IRON at the top of the display. Usually a full slash through the category IRON at the top of the display would mean that IRON ranges (1 thru 7) and (8 thru 15) are Notched OUT (not detected). But even though the display shows a full slash through the IRON category at the top of the display after reset with Disc set at 10, only 1 thru 10 are (not detected) and 11 thru 15 (are detected). In other words, just because a full slash is through the word IRON, it doesn't necessarily mean that 1 thru 15 are not detected.

As I said previously, there's no Notch set when you factory reset. If you select the Notch menu after reset it will show a number 1. These numbers mean nothing as far as what notch is set on the machine. Your indication of which notch is, or isn't set, are the slashes through the words at the top of the display. The numbers on the display when you are in the Notch menu are just that. They are numbers and nothing else. Their use is to help you set Notches but are not a display as to which Notches are set.

If you try to Notch OUT the IRON low range (1 thru 7) by using the number 1 that shows when you select the notch menu after reset, you'll notice that when you push the menu button trying to set the Notch, the menu will jump to the next category ( # of tones) and will not set the Notch. If you want to Notch OUT the IRON range (1 thru 7) you will first have to turn the settings knob to another number (any number) and then turn back to #1, or any number 1 thru 7, then push the menu button to Notch OUT the IRON low range (1 thru 7). Now go back to the Disc. menu and notice the full slash through the word IRON. It's still a full slash because you still have Disc. set at 10. Turn the Disc. to 0. Now notice that there is only a half slash through the lower half of the word IRON at the top of the display indicating that the low IRON range (1 thru 7) is Notched OUT (not detected).

A good exercise to help with understanding Disc. vs. Notch is to first reset the machine. The Disc. is set at 10 and no notch is set. Turn the Disc. to 0. Notice that all slashes have disappeared. Now turn the Disc. to 65 and notice all words at the top of the display have full slashes through them. So, it makes sense that if you want to notch OUT (not detect) a range, or ranges, you probably should set your Disc. at 0 first. That removes all the slashes. Then use the Notch menu to select the ranges you wish to Notch and watch for the half or full slash over the category you wish to Notch, i.e IRON, FOIL, NICKEL, TAB and ZINC.

It gets a little more complicated if you wish to try and Notch IN (detect) some ranges but we can talk about it.

Ron
 
Wow.no wonder I have been hitting the iron.I just figured it was like the CZ series and iron was part of the fisher world... Any more information would certainly be appreciated on this matter.
 
Because there is another factor involved that has not been mentioned, TIME. We are all limited by the amount
of time we have to hunt, so in some cases if there is a particular piece of trash that is prevalent, notching it out
allows us more time to cover more ground without having to slow down every time this trash object is encountered.
And covering more ground equates to finding more goodies.
Setting higher discrimination does not necessarily cause a loss of depth, because of the modern advances today,
as opposed to depth lose in the past years of the '70's to the '90's, and there are advantages to increasing
discrimination. A case in point is the built in increase in gain with the F-75, as discrimination is increased.
Plus there are detectors which allow you to turn up the TX power to offset any loss. Many detectors today have true "0" discrimination, so they can actually pick up iron minerals which will cause problems, or hunting wet salt which requires
some discrimination. Electric interference can also be reduced by adding discrimination, because at times it can be
so bad that shifting frequencies may not be adequate; this also allows sensitivity to be run much higher under this particular condition. With the F-75, adding disc. and causing gain to be increased actually overpowers the interference.
With any detector when turning up the [receive] sensitivity inherent circuit noise is heard at some point,
so any transmit gain pushes this point further away allowing more sensitivity, even if it is accomplished by
increasing discrimination. The same can be said about adding discrimination on a detector where no TX gain is added.
Metal detectors are by no means a "0" sum device, meaning there is no absolute equivalent loss or gain any time a
setting is changed, but can be variable and disproportionate.
As to the notch feature on detectors, it is there on most units because many people have requested it, and is almost a
universal industry standard. I guess it is better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
While I seldom if ever use it, I'm glad it is available.
 
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