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anyone relocated the headphone jack on ace 250?
- Thread starter Reader
- Start date
Ive done it, and so have others.
I made a mount for under the arm cup at the rear, just like what you'd see on other Garretts, ie, the 1350, 2500 etc. It wasn't hard, required only a little handiness and it was cheap.
Basically I created a pigtail from the phone jack to the rear through the "S" rod, and then connected that to a stereo jack at the rear. I mounted the jack in a small plastic housing, in this case an old micro relay with the guts removed.
The ne jack housing was attached to the underside of the arm cup and the phones now plug into the new location. The whole thing was done so as to be semi-permanent, that is removable if any future owner wanted to undue my work and go stock.
IF there is any response/interest in this, I have pics and a bit more detail to add, so just respond or email me.
I made a mount for under the arm cup at the rear, just like what you'd see on other Garretts, ie, the 1350, 2500 etc. It wasn't hard, required only a little handiness and it was cheap.
Basically I created a pigtail from the phone jack to the rear through the "S" rod, and then connected that to a stereo jack at the rear. I mounted the jack in a small plastic housing, in this case an old micro relay with the guts removed.
The ne jack housing was attached to the underside of the arm cup and the phones now plug into the new location. The whole thing was done so as to be semi-permanent, that is removable if any future owner wanted to undue my work and go stock.
IF there is any response/interest in this, I have pics and a bit more detail to add, so just respond or email me.
I can understand why some folks might not like that headphone jack where it is located on the ACE but I'd like to hear what you dislike about its location. Is it because it comes out the back, or is it because it's on the right hand side?
I like Davids solution with the pigtail because it's clean, simple, and doesn't up hack the control box.
I have a 250 and never had an issue with the placement of that connector. Perhaps it's because I have a right angle plug on my phones which hangs nicely and doesn't force the cord to loop as a straight connector would. I'd also mention that I swing with my left hand so from my perspective, the location of the plug works perfectly in my particular setup.
I guess my point is that replacing a straight connector with a right angle connector on a set of phones is trivial and another alternate solution to moving the phone jack.
HH
I like Davids solution with the pigtail because it's clean, simple, and doesn't up hack the control box.
I have a 250 and never had an issue with the placement of that connector. Perhaps it's because I have a right angle plug on my phones which hangs nicely and doesn't force the cord to loop as a straight connector would. I'd also mention that I swing with my left hand so from my perspective, the location of the plug works perfectly in my particular setup.
I guess my point is that replacing a straight connector with a right angle connector on a set of phones is trivial and another alternate solution to moving the phone jack.
HH
You are right, I have tried a 90 deg plug and it helps. SO does lefthanded swinging, but this is awkward to me, a rightie.
The intital problem I had with the jack position was with the non-coiled phone cord that came the unit. Here in S Carolina, it can be uncomfortable to hunt with anything but open digiphones in the warmer months - but such phones dont come with coiled cords.
Even if they did, the coiled cords still just generally are in the way crossing right in front from that jack point in the rear. After trying several of such solutions I went ahead wth the changes seen in the following pics.
[attachment 37359 acemod1.JPG]
This is the phone jack as constructed from Radio Shack parts, prior to finishing and buttoning everything up. That's heat shrink tubing around the shielded cable.
[attachment 37360 acemod4.JPG]
Here is the jack connection when complete. Note the grommet where the cable enters the stem and the shortened jack, making it less "in the way." Also, the jack plug wasn't of the sealed type, so I back filled the plug with sealant and then screwed it together, making a water tight plug.
Okay, so once the cable is fed down through the stem and out the bottom of the arm cup, what to do with it? Here's my answer:
[attachment 37361 Finalmod20.JPG]
The little "box" that I mounted the stereo jack plug in is a miniature relay with the guts removed. It just so happens to be what I had on hand, but anything would do that fits below the arm cup.
I tried mounting it inside the stem itself, but the 1/4" jack plug was too large to comfortably fit inside the tube. I could've used a 1/8" jackplug, but I wanted to preserve the 1/4" plug feature. That way I can use a simple adapter for the 1/8" plugs common on digiphones, but still have the 1/4" connection for the full-ear type I use in the cooler months.
P.S. I have since repositioned the plug box further beneath the arm cuff, so it doesnt protrude from the rear.
The intital problem I had with the jack position was with the non-coiled phone cord that came the unit. Here in S Carolina, it can be uncomfortable to hunt with anything but open digiphones in the warmer months - but such phones dont come with coiled cords.
Even if they did, the coiled cords still just generally are in the way crossing right in front from that jack point in the rear. After trying several of such solutions I went ahead wth the changes seen in the following pics.
[attachment 37359 acemod1.JPG]
This is the phone jack as constructed from Radio Shack parts, prior to finishing and buttoning everything up. That's heat shrink tubing around the shielded cable.
[attachment 37360 acemod4.JPG]
Here is the jack connection when complete. Note the grommet where the cable enters the stem and the shortened jack, making it less "in the way." Also, the jack plug wasn't of the sealed type, so I back filled the plug with sealant and then screwed it together, making a water tight plug.
Okay, so once the cable is fed down through the stem and out the bottom of the arm cup, what to do with it? Here's my answer:
[attachment 37361 Finalmod20.JPG]
The little "box" that I mounted the stereo jack plug in is a miniature relay with the guts removed. It just so happens to be what I had on hand, but anything would do that fits below the arm cup.
I tried mounting it inside the stem itself, but the 1/4" jack plug was too large to comfortably fit inside the tube. I could've used a 1/8" jackplug, but I wanted to preserve the 1/4" plug feature. That way I can use a simple adapter for the 1/8" plugs common on digiphones, but still have the 1/4" connection for the full-ear type I use in the cooler months.
P.S. I have since repositioned the plug box further beneath the arm cuff, so it doesnt protrude from the rear.
Uncle Willy
New member
Nifty mod bud. Some of the guys on this forum should be working for Garrett in the engineering department. For the longest time I have wanted a trigger switch pinpoint mounted on the inside top of the grip. May have to experiment a little since Garrett isn't that creative. I think it would be a big selling feature.
Bill
Bill
Uncle Willy
New member
I'm ambidextrous so it doesn't matter to me but could bug some folks. I wonder what the engineers are thinking about when they put this stuff in such oddball places or are they thinking at all?
Bill
Bill
Actually a trigger switch PP, ala the 1266X is doable, and truth be known, I like the idea. I always did. But you'd have to hack into the control housing and get on the board to make the mods. I'm always reluctant to do that - and I HAVE a degree in electronics.
But, Garrett listens to you, Bill. John, too. You guys should gang up on 'em and see what they say!
But, Garrett listens to you, Bill. John, too. You guys should gang up on 'em and see what they say!
Dick from IA
New member
Just one more thing I love about my Ace 250; I'm fortunate, in this case, to be left handed so the jack placement is no problem.
Noticed John-Edmonton has ordered a wireless headphone set. Let us know, John, how it works for you. Have a friend with a set from Wal-Mart (about $30); works fine on his BH, but too much static on the 250 and 1350.
Hope yours works, John; if so that's my early Christmas present, too
Noticed John-Edmonton has ordered a wireless headphone set. Let us know, John, how it works for you. Have a friend with a set from Wal-Mart (about $30); works fine on his BH, but too much static on the 250 and 1350.
Hope yours works, John; if so that's my early Christmas present, too