Another Option To The Sunray Probe

[Critterhunter]

This is just a thought for anybody considering one of those Sunray probes that straps to your Sovereign. I've owned a few of these on my Explorers and always found them to be more of a hassle than a hand held pinpointer. Not only did I not want the extra weight on the shaft, but the ugly tangle of yet more wires hanging off the GT's shaft is something else I wanted to avoid. Make no mistake, they are awesome pinpointers and the ability to hear a discriminated target through your headphones is a plus, but I didn't like the mechanics of it all...snapping it off the shaft, throwing a switch, re-snapping it on, remembering to throw the switch back. Can't tell you how many times I hunted for several minutes before realizing I still had the switch on.

I've used a few pinpointers over the years, including the Bullseye and one of those Harbor Tool/Freight jobs. To tell you the truth I didn't find much need for one with my Whites, but of course the Explorer/Sovereign are not as tight at pinpointing than those. Most of the time with my QXT I could stick a screwdriver in the ground and strike the target on the first try if I wanted to. With the GT I'm getting fairly good at pinpointing but it still isn't a tight as I like, causing me to use one of those Harbor Tool pinpointers all the time. It's decent for the $20 price but I still found myself not being able to locate the target, requiring me to get back up off the ground and re-pinpoint with the GT. This gets to be a pain, especialy after 6 or 7 hours of straight hunting in a day.

I'd have to admit I've asked my friend more than once to throw me his Garrett Pro Pointer to locate the target that the Harbor Tool job couldn't find, just so I wouldn't have to stand back up. Let me tell you, that Pro Pointer is the best pinpointer I've ever laid hands on. It's much quicker and easier to use than the Sunray probe, has really good depth, and I like how it vibrates faster and faster as you get closer to the target. Best thing is, besides not having all that extra weight and mess on your Sovereign's shaft, if you have other machines you can use it with them, or quickly help a friend find a target without lugging your whole machine over to him.

There are no sensitivity adjustments and I've never had the thing false on the ground like other pinpointers. You don't even need to hold it's tip to the ground before turning it on so it's adjusted right like you do with other pinpointers. It fits nice and neat in a holster on your hip, fits well in your hand, and isn't some huge device you'll never want to use like some others are. I'm not very fond of Garrett or their machines but I have to admit they did one heck of a job with this thing. I've got one on the way right now for $127 and free shipping. My friend is going to be happy to hear that I won't be bugging him to come over and pinpoint a target for me anymore. In fact, I bet he'd be willing to pay for half just to get me off his back. :')

 

[plugger]

It has as much or more depth than the Sun Ray probes and you can just slip the thin probe in your pocket when you aren't using it. And, since you need headphones anyways, it does that well too. You can take from detector to detector too.

 

[kered]

I'm with Plugger, i have both the pocket uniprobe and sunray x-1, it works out expensive if you have a few detectors using the sunray as you need one for each. Unfortunately the pocket-uniprobe is no longer made and has been replaced by the pistol probe, so if mine dies looks like the way to go, The uniprobe with headphones is a bit out of reach price wise but i'm sure its worth it

 

[Ron from Michigan]

Plugger,I used the Pistol Probe and really liked this PI probe.Does the Uni Probe disables the detector when switched on to eliminate interference.By the way I'm following your Uni Probe on Ebay. HH Ron

 

[plugger]

n/t

 

[Critterhunter]

I'd rather not have a probe that is hooked to headphones, not only for yet another wire going to the probe, but also because I prefer different headphones sometimes in the cold versus the heat (smaller and larger ones). These Sony studio headphones from Walmart are about mid sized and so far I'm liking them in the heat or the cold. Not too big to sweat my ears up, yet not to small to provide good audio and volume. Very comfortable as well. I've got a cheap pair of Koss that I use on my QXT as well so there is no need to swap headphones when using the other detector.

I was looking at reviews on the web and the second most liked probe to the Garrett seems to be the Vibraprobe. Kellyco sells it for a little less than the Garrett. It's a PI unit and is said to go a little deeper, though I'm amazed at the depth of the Garrett. More than I need so that doesn't matter. The Vibraprobe only detects at the tip, yet I've found the Garrett to be more sensitive at the tip than the sides so it's real easy to zero in on a target. Never been a problem. The two things I do like about the Vibraprobe are that it's waterproof (Garrett is only rain proof) so you could stick it under water, and it has no on/off switch. You simply point it upside down to turn it on and it will automaticly shut off after a minute. No external switch to gum up, though the Garrett has a nice rubber cover over the switch to prevent any problems. I'd also be afraid of the Vibraprobe turning on and off by it's self if it's thrown into the trunk or something. I think the Vibraprobe is a bit bigger/heavier from the photos. The Garrett seems the perfect size to use comfortably.

Kellyco also sells a cheaper unit (forget name) at the top of the probe page but that sucker looks massive, and it also has a big external sensitivity knob that I'd probably always be bumping. I have no clue how well it works, anyway.

From what I hear (haven't searched the threads yet, but was told this...) the Garrett can be detuned. I'd assume you'd do this by turning it on near a piece of metal like your detector shaft, since the unit automaticly adjusts sensitivity when first turned out so it doesn't sound off falsely. I wouldn't see the need to do this unless there were several targets in the same hole very close together. It's always been right on when I've used it, even if other targets were nearby. Several of the probes I've used in the past require you to place the tip on the ground when first turned on or it would false when it touches the dirt. No need that I've seen to do this with the Garrett. I also was told (?) that there is a way to increase the depth of the Garrett by aiming it at your coil when first turned on. I'm going to search for that but I suspect it would do the reverse. Still, I've been very impressed with it's depth and don't see the need to increase it somehow.

 

[Rick(ND)]

The SunRay probe to me is #1, but like some say they dont like the extra weight even though it is the best one made. My number 2 I use on all detectors I try and dont have a Sun Ray probe is the Uniprobe that is built into the headphones as it is deep and works real good, but picks up all metal and not dfisc like the Sun Ray. My # 3 choice that is not as expensive that works better then anything else in the hand held probe is the new Garrett probe as it is very impressive. Try many of the others, but these are the ones I feel work the best for me anyway and those I have talk to.

 

[Number9]

I can't fault this video,,, because I use a Pistol Probe.

What is your take on the video?

TEST?

 

[jbow]

I really love the pocket uniprobe. I clip it onto my left pocket and either loop the coil cable over the top of the unit or slip the wand into a probe holder if I am using my SunRay leather pouch. It is very sensitive, I can hear it without taking my phones off (it does not hook to phones but has a built in speaker). It does not signal from the side of the wand but only the tip.
The only problem they have is if you drop the wand too many times or pull on it you can loosen the connection and it can become intermittent, but i've been able to keep it running. Ibought an extra coil/wand for it since you can still buy them.

I also have a SR inline probe but I don't use it for the same reasons plus it is not as sensitive as the uniprobe and the coil is like the size of a quarter compared to the uniprobe being about the diameter of a dime.

BTW, I have never had problems from the probe being AM instead of disc. I can always find the target.

J

 

[Critterhunter]

I got the Pro Pointer in the mail the other day and ran a few tests on it. When I've used my friend's in the past the depth was always more than enough to find 95% of my targets on the first try after a plug has been removed. I read a few threads on this probe and some indicated they were getting more depth by sliding a small piece of metal down the side of it until the probe started to sound off, and then backing off to where it just stops making noise/vibration. This pushes the threshold of activation to it's near breaking point, so it almost acts like an adjustable sensitivity, and will give you more depth. I tried this and found myself getting somewhere near roughly 1 to 2" more depth out of the unit. That will come in handy when finding targets without digging a plug but instead using a screwdriver, if they are just beyond the normal reach of the probe. I can see myself using that trick to rack up a clad count real fast, or avoiding digging plugs in areas where somebody might complain. It would also be handy to avoid having to get back up on to re-pinpoint a target when you've dug a plug but still aren't getting a signal. As I said, though, that was rarely the case when I've used my friends. Almost always the target would be found with the probe on the first try because it already has some really good depth.

Another nice trick is de-tuning the unit by holding it near a piece of metal when it's first turned on. The microprocessor that automaticly adjusts the sensitivity when first powered up will back it way down. I was then able to trace the outline of metal objects behind walls easily. This would be useful when checking a large signal that you think might be a can but could be multiple coins very near each other. No more skipping over those can signals for me sometimes. For now on I'll at least bend down and check if it's just one large target or several by quickly using the probe, and without the need to dig the target to find that out. I mostly do dig large coin signals in the hopes of a cache when I'm hunting a house site or in the woods, but I get sick of checking those in trashy parks. Now I'll check those as well in the hopes of a multiple coin spill.

Another trick that I haven't heard anybody say yet might be great for checking out those coin spikes next to larger pieces of iron or other trash. If it's shallow enough to detect you could check to see if there are two targets present, de-tuning the probe if you had to to see if you could seperate them.

I read of a good idea to increase the sensitivity using the piece of metal mentioned above. Tie a squaretab or other piece of metal to a piece of string and tape the other end up near the battery compartment of the probe. When you do need the extra depth you just grab the pulltab with your thumb and slide it down as needed, and when you don't need it you just let it hang out of the way while pinpointing.

 

[Critterhunter]

Managed to get out in the field the other day and find some ground in a pine grove that didn't have snow. Tested a few undug targets before digging a plug that were still too deep for the Pro Pointer by doing the depth increase trick. Used a square tab and slid it up the shaft of the probe until it started sounding off a little, then backed it off a tiny bit. Probe was then easily able to hit targets that were out of it's range before.

Some people are putting a dime on a string and taping that to the battery end of the probe, so they can swing the dime out of the way or grab it with their thumb and slide it up near the top to increase the depth. I read about somebody using a rubberband to hold a piece of metal (the strip from a ruler) to the side of the probe all the time. Then you just use your thumb to slide it forward or back as needed. I'm going to put an "L" bend at the back end of the strip so I can easily move it with my thumb. Just have to remember to slide the thing back away when done because if you turn it on with the metal up there it will do the reverse- detune the probe and get less depth. Very impressed with it's depth without even doing this trick, but it sure will make probing with a screwdriver on some deeper targets to pop them a breeze in areas I don't want to dig plugs. Clad totals should at least go through the roof and be more worth the effort.

 

[JOHNMARKHAM]

hummm interesting reading and video..i just got a pro pointer and i have a automax from kellyco ive not gone out and used propointer yet, maybe this weekend,but theses posts have been interesting to read..
thanks for the info
hh
john

 

[lovepulltabs]

I can't fault this video,,, because I use a Pistol Probe.

What is your take on the video?

TEST?

I wonder why he didn't use the SunRay probe in his test, he stated he only got an inch with his on his Explorer XS, I get closer to 2.5"- 3" with mine on my XS on a coin size target.

 

[Critterhunter]

Used the probe Saturday again. First time out with my S-5 coil. I found several clad dimes in a trashy park that the S-5 told me had pulltabs very close to them. Before digging I got down on the ground and used the Pro Pointer to check what was nearby to the dimes. Each time I was able to find the dime and the nearby other targets before digging with the probe, without even using the depth increase trick. Really saves time and no matter getting back up to re-cent the target. Can't live without this thing now.

 

[etracmick]

Nice find and thanks for the vid. Any particular reason for the huge hole?? Nobody else commented but I hope that is not the norm out there!! No wonder the hobby gets a bad name.

 

[Critterhunter]

Today I put my "super tuner" on my Garrett ProPointer. I was trying to use a piece of wire bent into an "L" that would slide through a rubber tube zip tied to the probe but I found it would snag on the holster. I ended up just taking a washer and tying it to some soft flexible wire. String will do also but I prefer the wire because it's a little stiffer than string and so keeps the washer from dangling around so much when I'm not super tuning it. At first I was hoping just using the wire without the washer would work but found the Pinpointer needs to see a good size length of it along the shaft before it will go off. This way it's as short as possible, just long enough for the washer to reach towards the probe to cause it to go off, which ended up being somewhere right around the switch.

If I'm not super tuning my normal grasp of the pinpointer ends up catching the washer's wire in my fingers so it won't hang down and set off the probe with a false hit. When super tuning I just turn on the probe and then grab the wire/washer with my thumb and slide it up the shaft until the unit starts to sound off, then backing it off a hair.

You can also use this method to de-tune the unit when trying to separate targets or find one near a fence or other large piece of metal. Handy for checking if a large "can" hit is really several coins because detuning will allow you to precisely trace the outline of targets. To de-tune it just hold the unit pointing straight down so the washer is hanging near the shaft and then turn it on. Once done get the washer out of the way again by moving it (or the wire is easiest to grasp with your fingers or thumb) towards the back of the probe as normal.

I did some depth tests on a quarter using a yard stick away from any type of metal. I taped the quarter to the end of the ruler standing up so the probe would see the full side of the coin much like most coins will be laying in the ground. I then slide the ProPointer up the ruler until the first slight sound off on the coin. When super tuning it I just slid the washer up the shaft until the unit started to false and then backed it off a hair.

These depths are pretty impressive but keep in mind that you should get much better depth in the field because the ProPointer is probably adjusting it's sensitivity down lower at my house due to electrical noise. I also found that the pinpointer would sound off sooner if you were slightly moving the tip around, so keep that in mind in the field. Don't just hold it in one spot and try to get a signal. Move it around slightly much like you would a search coil.

Normal Depth: 1 1/2" (As said, is better in the field away from electrical noise since sensitivity auto adjusts on power up.)
Super Tuned : 3 1/2" (Should also be better in the field, though very impressive.)

As you can see, 3 1/2" is nothing to laugh at and it's very stable super tuned this way so long as you don't move the piece of metal around you are tuning it with. That's why I like this setup with the wire. It's very easy to grab it with your thumb and slide it up the tip. In fact, that's one of the big things I like about this pinpointer. I can take it out of it's holster on my left hip, turn it on, tune it if needed, find the target, turn it off, and put it back in the holster all with one hand.

At the above depth super tuned it shows that most clads are going to be well within the range of the unit. Using a screwdriver to pop them you can wrack up clad totals much faster in a day. Also great for ring or coin hunting in places where they might frown on you digging plugs, such as sports fields or somebody's yard.

By the way, I just realized I don't have to click the on/off button to turn the unit on. Simply hold the button down slightly and the unit will come on. I like this because when I set the pinpointer on the ground or back in my holster after it's found the target I don't have to remember to turn it off or go through the trouble of clicking the switch again. I'm sure it's less wear and tear on the switch as well and only plan to click the unit to stay on anymore when I need to.

 

[jbow]

I've also heard of people simply taping a small piece of metal to one of their fingernails on the hand they hold the detector with. I imagine the index finger or middle finger would be ideal. Simply run your finger down the side till you begin to hear it then back it up till it's quiet and you're there. I wonder if a bit of aluminum foil taped to a fingernail would do the trick. Might be easier to work with than a rubber band or a string....

J

 

[Critterhunter]

That's a unique idea, like I've heard of people using a ring on their finger. But, the way I hunt in some messy wet areas I bet tape wouldn't last long stuck to my finger. Using a rubberband is an option, though. I'd rather put it on the thumb on my left hand so I can still use the pinpointer one handed like said above. I've tested this wire/washer job and find it's easy to use one-handed, so I think I'll just stick with that.

 

[Critterhunter]

Somebody recently told me that in a very highly mineralized spot two pinpointers they tried including the ProPointer were sounding off on the ground minerals. If that's the case then try turning the ProPointer on with it's tip touching the ground. When it auto adjusts sensitivity it should correct for the ground minerals to prevent falsing. You usualy have to do this with most pinpointers anyway to manual adjust the sensitivity. I've never had to do that with the ProPointer myself, but keep this in mind should you be in a really bad location with very high minerals.

 

[Critterhunter]

Well I've had the ProPointer for about 5 months now and could not be happier with it. I couldn't imagine hunting without one now. It makes recovery so much faster and far less hassle than other pin pointers I've used, including the Sun Ray Probe. Today I was out for a short hunt which was made shorter by the fact that the Pro Pointer 9V battery it came with finally died on me. That's not too bad of battery life considering it comes with probably a less than top of the shelf battery in the box, not to mention how much I use it. I keep the thing on until the target is recovered and am real picky about finding the perfect spot the target is located at. I don't try to use my eyes or my hands to find the target. The probe does all the work for me until I finally break apart the last bit of dirt with my fingers. I also like to use the washer on the wire thing described previously in this message for locating targets the are still far away for the normal excellent depth of this probe. Doing that quickly tells me if the target is just deeper in the hole or off to the side without me chasing my tail in many instances that way.

So when the battery finally gave out today the unit went into a constant vibrate mode. I thought it was just falsing from being on too long as some times they'll do that and simply turning it off and back on will re-calibrate the unit. Not this time. Pulled off my headphones and I could then hear that it was emitting a beeping noise that was different than the standard audio it makes when detecting a target. Knew instantly then that it was telling me the battery was too low. Tried to go after a few more targets before leaving but holding dirt in my hand and waving it over the coil as I kneeled on the ground got old real fast. Visions of the "good old days" when that's how I would find deeper targets that involved a lot of dirt to search through. I simply REFUSE to hunt any more with any machine without this pin pointer. THAT'S how good this thing is. I'd say it at least doubles your enjoyment of this hobby. It's night and day compared to not having one, and is far more user friendly (less weight and hassle) than the Sun Ray probe to me, which I've had on my Explorers. If you want to increase your finds and speed at recovering them, not to mention avoid pulling your hair out trying to chase down a target, I would highly recommend this probe. It's that important to me now. The only place I'll hunt without one is in the water. Heck, I even use the thing on the beach if I'm not using a sand scoop.