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A Few CTX Beach Tips

cjc

Active member
These area few things that worked well for me--I don't expect them to apply everywhere. This is a machine that because of it's complex signal and processing does not like viscosity--fast water or black sand. The answer is coil control and tuning. I set the sens in open screen in the worst interference zone--the wave break, or on an incline to deeper water. I test with a slightly fast sweep speed--that way there's less chasing down of partials. I stay away from Auto--based upon some testing that "JohhnyAngelo" did showing that "22" manual is optimum although "20" or with the 17"-- "19" are more typical. Having set the sens in open screen, where there is really bad ground I go to a second screen that has some rejection--like Jays gold or the box that Andy uses for his gold prog. Jays pattern makes a great screener although nearby iron or the depth of a response may make a good target sound off weakly. Going between open and closed screen will give a lot of information about a response too. I also like Evan's method of going between combined and 50TC to get an idea of how consistent a response is. As a search mode, these screeners require an even slower sweep speed. The "Previous Mode" setting is handy in that it lets you test a second program alongside what you are running to compare--both depth and stabilty. I tested several this way. Andy's gold was a bit deeper than my standard Jay's open screen but the Pitch Hold changed a lot over non-signals at high sens settings. Drayon's 4TC was a lively sounding program owing I guess to there being no low tones to process as with combined. However, it had to be run low to stop ground noises from continually coming in. I will say though that these "dud, dud dud" sound were not the same as the low conductor "hum" of a "12-01/2/3...." that could be a chain (or rotten glasses). I also tested some of the placer gold set ups I got from Steve Hershbach's Detector Prospector site "Gold High Trash / Gold TTF/ Gold High Mineral" this way. These all high toned a lot although they may have been okay down at "19" sens or lower that wasn't the level of sensitivity I wanted to run. I learned a ton of very effective stuff on this trip wish more had gone into the book although a second one is not out of the question.
cjc
clivesgoldpage.com
 
Good tips Clive, although I would caution that each machine/coil combo does react with slightly different settings when referring to "Manual 22" being optimal for depth. This fall, I had the unfortunate pleasure of getting to test a new 3030 after my oringinal machine suffered an unfortunate fracture of the upper shaft at the handle.....they work as crutches only so long I guess...... Anyway with the repair shop time for out of warranty work being so long, I decided to purchase another 3030. After getting the new machine and setting it up with the same exact settings as the old machine, I found that with the old machine 22-23 was max without to much falsing "on the wet" and now I could now run 27 comfortably with the new machine. In the water 21 manual with the old machine was max but the new one will easily run with 24 manual (can push it a bit more).

So I would use what you and Johnny A. have found as a good guide, each individual machine will vary somewhat due to internal adjustments/components and conditions found at each individual beach. (salt/mineral content, current/turbulence, etc).

Some mighty nice finds there Clive!

Cliff
 
Good point, Cliff--it's incredible just how much variance in build there is. This is also true of the coils--some noisy, some not.
Thanks again for your help with the book.
Regards,
clive
 
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