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4" Long X 2" Wide Sniper Coil In Style Of SEFs For Sovereign (Or Any Other Machine For That Matter...General Questions Too.)

Critterhunter

New member
I've toyed with the idea of building my own coils for my Sovereign GT in the past. Did a ton of reading and research on it. Then the SEFs came along and I figured I'd have to make several coils to make up for the cost of just buying a 12x10, because a coil of that general shape was what I was looking to build to improve both depth and left/right separation at the same time. This coil works so great that I don't even dare trying to better it with something similar in size.

But I'm still interested in the idea for a *extreme situation* sniper coil. Have a background in electronics so I can do the project, with enough reading to fill in a few blanks that I have.

I heard somebody mention it in another forum a while back and I think it would be a great idea- How about a 2" wide by 4" long sniper coil in the general style of an SEF in some respects? With a 2" or so wide width, the DD line could potentially be as sharp as a razor. I'm still shocked at how sharp the DD line is on the 12x10 due to it's shape which seems to compress the DD line width. And then, being about 4" (or say a tad less maybe even) in length, it's length wise separation would be outstanding as well.

A coil like this would be potentially awesome for working along fences or up against poles or other large metal objects, and of course would be stellar for working super heavy trash, such as sites that seem to be one big giant iron signal.

On the other hand, I don't know what limitations there might be in a DD's physical size in terms of length and width? I would suspect, that if Sun Ray can make a probe coil that ties into a BBS unit as tiny as that thing is, then you could get pretty small with a DD, although I doubt the Sun Ray's coil windings is anything related to a DD configuration. I would prefer a DD design due to it's awesome coverage and left/right separation abilites, not to mention they seem to be far less picky about alignment of the two coils compared to a concentric, and also the ability to suck up less ground mineralization, where a DD really seems to shine and punch deeper in my mineralized soils.

If anybody has any info on the specifics of BBS coil making, I still need to fill in a few blanks on that. I already have a schematic for the pre-amp in the coil, and being it's an off the shelf IC I can get that no problem, and easily pick up the few resistors or capacitors also involved.

Mainly I'm still fuzzy on the diameter of the wire and wire length to get the variables right for mating to the Sovereign, and how to go about fine tuning that. From the BBS coils I've read with a multimeter, despite shape or size, they all have the same readings on things like wire resistance, so I know you have to change length/diameter/turns to get certain variables within a window the detector wants to see. I've done a few custome winds on brushless motors for RC planes to get their amp draw, torque, or prop speed where I wanted it, which in a sense is very similar in the things involved- wire gauge, number of turns, etc. Just have to get the last few bits of things pinned down before building a coil or two.

Also, the shielding and such. One thing I hate is to shop via mail order. I'd much rather use parts at hand from local stores if I can swing it, even if the price is a bit higher on materials. Any useful items to shield the coil? I think I remember hearing that certain large capacitors have the proper shielding material in them that you can salvage for that.

As far as a coil casing goes, being such a small coil I don't think I'd opt for a commercial made product, unless of course the thing just looks killer. Instead, I'd probably just encase the windings in a solid pool of epoxy, poured into a custom mold of say 4x2 in size (4" long, 2" wide), and then make it look nice with a healthy dose of spray on bed liner like I like to use on the bottom of my coils to ditch the coil cover for less weight and no hassle of cleaning under them.

So if anybody has any bits or pieces to add material or technical wise on building a BBS coil, please give me any tid bits you may have at hand in advice...
 
I've been kicking this idea more around in my head. The intention of such a coil is for *very* heavy iron or other trash, or say for working right up along fences or metal objects such as poles. Depth is of no concern to me at all in this kind of situation. Just pure physical best possible left/right/foreward/aft separation.

After thinking about to consider my options, I think the best idea might be to just shrink a picture of an SEF coil down in size by a 1/3rd reduction to serve as my template for laying out the coil windings. I think the 12x10 is a fantastic coil in depth, left/right separation, and stability, and I'm sure a large part of that is due to it's unique shape, so why not try to copy it? The left/right wise separation of it's DD line is unreal in how razor sharp it seems to be to me, and the coil's shape also makes for getting "between" trash while still achieving great depths.

So, since I was initialy thinking of something around a 4x2 DD coil for a sniper coil in the first place, a little quick math in my head and obviously if I shrunk the 12x10 coil down in size to equal 4" in length, that's a 1/3rd reduction in physical size, which then puts the 10" width at around 3.33" in width. Then I was thinking of the SEF 8x6 coil, where then the math gets even more simple than it already is :biggrin:....Obviously again, reduction by half this time from an 8" length to a 4" length, and a half reduction in width would then be from 6" to 3".

Now that's right about what I had in mind....No more than a 4" length. I might even try to go a tad under that if it's possible with such a tiny DD...no way to know until I play with some windings laid out on a workbench for some test runs. Don't mind the width increasing from my initial thoughts of 2" to around 3. More concerned about getting the length 4 or sub 4 just to beat the tinniest of what's out there in trash coils for various machines for length wise unmasking aspects. The width wise separation, regardless of where the physical size ends up, I'm sure will be outstanding anyway with it being a DD and also taking on the SEF shape which seems to compress the width of a DD line in what I've experienced comparing the 12x10 to various other coils.

Not worried about making a spoked casing. Just would like to lay out the windings in the same physical pattern of an SEF, and then I'll probably just pour epoxy into a mold to make it a solid coil here. Then again, I suppose I could make a mold using the spoked SEF design to pour that epoxy into. Outer casing to cover the epoxy will just be 4 or 5 coats of spray on bed liner for cosmetic looks/etc.

I guess the only real concerns I have at the moment is if it's going to be possible to make a DD coil of this general size. I know of DD coils somewhat near this size class, such as a 6x4, but then again the size reduction from there is roughly 1/2. Anybody have any opinions on the physical limitations of a DD coil layout where size becomes a limiting factor in generating a DD field?

While on the subject, what's the smallest commercial available DD coil in an "egg" shape that anybody knows of? Whites has a 6x4, Detech has a 7x4.5 and also a 5" round DD,
 
Have you been to the Geotech Forum and studied the posts under Search coils?


"Sovereign coils have an embedded PCB with the RX preamp"
 
Why dont you experment,I am working on a G2 vlf coil.dont have a background in electronic like you.
I removed electronic from a small G2,With the help from people on this Forum.and a lot of questions,all the coils
that I make work now.make yourself a templet use plastic or small wood dile pens to hold wire.you can test the coil
on the templet to see how it works.I have made concentric and DD,coil.DD coils for me are easer to make.
Good luck.
 
Yea, I know about the pre-amp. I have two schematics for those. Simple little circuit with an off the shelf IC. One of the schematics is of the older version of it from long ago and the other is the one used to this day, which is the layout I plan to use. From memory the IC chips are a bit different between the two and the newer version doesn't use a redundant ground trace, which is why I think the early Sovereign coils had an extra wire in the cable if memory serves. Been a while since I looked that info over, but plan to review it again soon to prepare for building the thing. Mainly the issues I'm going to have are the methodalogy to adjusting wire gauge, length, and turns, to get a few readings pinned down including the TX/RX resistance to within the specifications window the Sovereign expects to see with any coil. Every coil I ever checked the resistance across via it's plug, big or small, had this within a very tight same reading of each other, so I would figure that's important to get it as close to that as possible. Coil design or the particulars of specifications for them isn't a strong point for me. My background has mostly been self taught DC circuits or troubleshooting stuff as a hobby over the years, but recently I also attended a HVAC school and have further electronics learning from that experience. Figured might as well get a job in something I enjoy doing as a hobby- troubleshooting/fixing things. Always found it fun...

Frank-S, yep....I know about dolling it up first using wooden pegs on a wood board and all that. From what I've read DD coils are much easier to build, and one of those reasons being that the RX/TX alignment isn't nearly as picky to get right. Want to build a DD anyway, as in my minerals the DDs have much more stability and depth (true for a DD versus a concentric of the same size when the ground isn't very neurtral), not to mention *in general* more coverage per sweep and also better left/right separation from shallow to deep due to the traits of the DD line generated, where as *in general* concentrics tend to do their best separation near the deeper tip of the detection field. Depth isn't a primary importance at all for me in this project. Just want as best of a sniping coil as possible. Even if it only gets 3 or 4" deep I'd be more than happy with that. Plenty of shallow silver out there being hid by iron or trash. Plus snugging right up near fences at old sites or around metal objects like poles might pay off too.

I took a picture of the 12x10 and shrunk it down exactly 1/3rd it's size (hence a 4x3 that I'm shooting for), then pasted that back into the picture beside the 8x6. Man, just didn't look right due to the spokes also being shrunk down. Maybe the 8x6 shrunk in half will look more "proper" in the picture since it's more "beefy" in it's lay out. Doesn't really matter anyway, I just need to use the shrunk down SEF as a template to lay my coil windings out on. Not sure yet if I'm going to make a spoked mold to pour the epoxy into or just make a solid coil via the epoxy pour. Still debating that...
 
Just designed an 5x9 elliptical coil for my PI using a Inkscape Vector Graphics program
http://inkscape.org/
Might come in useful for any of your hobby projects.

One thing to think about if your vacuum forming a small coil. Anything smaller than the 5x9 like your making, make the coil solid. You won't have problems with the
side cut outs.

View the coil picture full size and download them to your computer, shrink them down a bit might be useful to you
 
Very cool info. Thanks for that. If I didn't make it clear (probably not)- I'm probably going to go with a solid coil casing of epoxy since weight of such a small 4x3 coil won't be an issue, so no need for spokes. Not going to use vacuum forming a plastic casing, but rather just spray the epoxy with 4 or 5 coats of spray on bed liner to protect it and also make it look store bought. I use the stuff on the bottom of all my coils to ditch the coil cover for less weight and also to save the hassle of cleaning under covers. Works fantastic and the textured spray on bed liner finish looks like a factory coil casing finish.

Mainly I'm just wanting to shrink down an SEF image so I have a template to lay my coil windings out exactly as such of them. You know- those "dimpled" blunt ends of the windings, the subtle curve of the outside left/right edges of the coil, and also what seems also the unique way they overlapped the two DD windings in the center of the coil. I'm sure some great thought went into all that design so I want to copy it for my own purposes, because the 12x10 is so stable, deep, and also the DD line seems razor sharp like I've never seen before on a coil, big or small.

Once again thanks for the info. Going to have to start digging through all the old material are dug up on the web a while ago for building coils and the particulars of the BBS setup with the pre-amp, etc. Love projects like this. A cold six pack in the garage, some good music, and a propane heater and it just makes the winter go by so much faster while forgetting life's problems for a few hours. One of the things I enjoy the most about scratch building my own RC electric plane designs out of foam. Get almost as much satisfaction out of building them as flying them and wondering if some odd new design in my head is even going to be air worthy. Sometimes nope, sometimes yep...:beers:

PS- Vacuum forming....Haven't read into that too heavily yet. Many guys use it to make custom body parts or say cockpits windows for RC planes. Any good links on the particular how-to's? For my foam RC plane builds, I use home made hot wire cutters to cut out body parts or wings, powered off a DC car battery charger via a dimmer switch to control the right amount of heat to the stainless steel fisher leader I use as my "blade" to cut the foam. Much easier and less mess than cutting foam with a saw or something and having to do a bunch of sanding to get things right and smooth.
 
There's plenty of do it yourself vacuum forming how-to on google.
https://www.google.ca/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=vacuum+form+table&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&redir_esc=&ei=85EqUeyjPKj-2QWmsoGIDw

Harbor Freight has a nice vac pump for about $115, better than a vac. cleaner.
image_18961.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html

Good luck with your coil build, always more fun to use something you built yourself. Tinkering is fun, for us who have the ability............
 
Seven,Qyestion looking at your coil picture,does the coil have 2 different size TX coil winding and
2 different size RX coil windings.
 
I have a 18"x15" SEF Butterfly coil that came with my New Sov.GT.tryed it 2 times,I am past 73
it goes real deep but after about 45 minets had to put it in truck. might post it.
 
Frank-S said:
Seven,Qyestion looking at your coil picture,does the coil have 2 different size TX coil winding and
2 different size RX coil windings.

The shell was designed to make an oval mono coil for my PI machines, which is a single wound coil, see picture.

But the shell could be used to make a DD coil for VLF machines. DD coil has one Tx coil and one RX coil, see picture of round coil.
 
Frank, the 15x12 without a coil cover is lighter than the 10" Tornado with it's coil cover still on. Also, the 12x10 without a coil cover is lighter than the S-12 (which is legendary for being light) without a coil cover by a half ounce. I spray bed liner on the bottom of my coils (4 or 5 light coats) to protect them. No hassle with cleaning under coil covers, less weight, and also looks like a factory plastic coil casing finish. Just be sure to spray the bed liner onto some cardboard heavy like and then scan over it in all metal to make sure not metal or minerals is present (nulls or threshold response in PP or all metal modes).

The official field test of the 15x12 showed it got less depth on about dime and sub-dimed sized targets than the 12x10. Seemed to indicate that the 15x12 only showed more depth on roughly somewhere between quarter and half dollar sized targets or bigger (they used crotel bell to judge that, or whatever those things are called...). I know the 15x12 I owned did not seem as deep as the stock 10" Tornado in my mineralized soils on coin/ring sized targets, although oddly it did seem deeper than stock in my mineralized sands on those coin/ring sized targets. Often I found in fact that lowering the sensitivity well below what was stable at a site for the 15x12 seemed to give more depth, or at least ID at depth, than riding sensitivity at the edge of stability. I suspect my minerals meant it needed to ride less hot due to sucking up too much ground stew.

The 12x10 for me is deeper than the stock 10" Tornado or the 15x12 on land and also in the sand. Again, on coin/ring sized targets. Fantastic coil. Laser like DD line for ultra sharp left/right separation beyond any coil, big or small, concentric or DD, I have ever used. Stability is rock solid with EMI or minerals to where I often can ride full blast manual sensitivity. Tones are sharper/more crisp. Reaction time between targets seems faster, which I'm sure is just due to the more distinct "see" and "not see" of the DD line to separate stuff more cleanly. Pinpointing is easy with the center or the tip or tail of the coil. Only complaint I have is that the 12x10 and 15x12 are too much drag for my tastes in the water. I suspect that's why the S-12 and WOT seem very popular among Excalibur water hunters- round so less drag than the squarish shape of the SEFs.

This is one of the reasons I want to mimic the SEFs in my homebuilt sniper coil. Depth, stability, left right separation, EMI and minerals...All seem improved with the SEF design. But, as said, depth is of no concern with such a small 4x3" coil. Stability and EMI/minerals? Sure, but in reality with such a small coil those should be mimimalized too anyway just by shear size of the coil. Still, can't hurt to copy the winding layout just to hedge my bets in all respects. Who knows, maybe it will get a little deeper or separate a little better or be a bit more stable compared to a "conventional" round DD?

Mainly my only concern is separation at maximum in at least the length wise aspect. From what I've surfed (???) on the net the smallest commercial DD I can find is a 4.5" round DD by Garrett for their machines. Is anybody aware of any commercial DD any smaller, at least in the length wise aspect than 4.5"? And what of the width wise aspect? If there isn't, and I'm able to make a 4x3 coil, then by all rights I've got a half inch advantage in length wise separation and about a 1.5" width wisde advantage as well.

That is, if it's even possible to build a DD with this small of dimensions. I'm wondering if the nature of the detection field for a DD makes it impossible to do here, or if any other aspects (say getting the wire gauge/length/windings within specs the Sovereign wants to see) makes it an impossibility. I haven't read into it too heavily yet, but can you get around wire resistance issues by way of a resistor in order to get around any physical limitations in wire length or such in getting things proper here?

This is the kind of stuff I've got to figure out, or maybe the only answer is just going to be to try and go from there. Was just hoping to hear if there was some rule of thumb for a DD in physical size that just can't be overcome, or at least that the field becomes so bad past a certain point that it's a net negative instead of a positive in separation aspects or say depth beyond about 1" or so? If I can even get 3 to 4" depth out of it that's all I need for heavy trash it's intended for. Plenty of shallow silver out there at those depths masked badly by trash.

PS- I have used small DDs that have terrible left/right separation, with a seemingly much thicker DD line than the 12x10 or even say a conventional round DD of the 10 to 12" size range or so. Is there a reason behind that? I'm wondering if the thickness of the DD line gets fat when the coil gets smaller than a certain point? If so, perhaps by copying the coil winding layout of the 12x10 or 8x6 I can squeeze the DD line down to something better than what is typical for say a sub-8" DD round coil? I'm simply amazed at how sharp the DD line is on the 12x10 (and 15x12), and also it seems to be pretty sharp on the 13" Ultimate coil as well, which appears to not be a "conventional" round DD in it's layout and traits using a loaner I had for a while. I like that coil, although it's far more prone to EMI or minerals than the 12x10, and I'm not sure if it's even as deep as my 12x10 yet, but does appear deeper than the 15x12 was in my soil, if not as stable in EMI or heavy minerals.
 
Critterhunter, A fue years ago I purshed a small Garrett sniper nuget coil to get its Pree-amp.the coil is
3"x6-3/4" very light.I still have it,its in good condition,has small DD windings,shield is sprayed in the 2 shell
halfs.You are considering on makeing a small DD coil for your Soverign GT,The mount will work on a minelab stick.
If you can use it E-mail me. fjs5015@yahoo.com
 
Frank, thanks for the generous offer, but my heart is set on a smaller coil. Whole point is I want to go to the absolute extreme in terms of at least tip to tail length beyond what has ever been available in a commercial product. Far as I know the smallest DD coil in terms of length I can find commercially is the Garrett 4.5" DD. Anybody know of any smaller than that in a DD? I'm shooting for a DD as small as possible to also maintain maximum left/right separation over a concentric.

I'm figuring 4x3 at least is what I want to shoot for, and if I can make it even smaller I'll probably build a sub-4" by 2" or something. As small as I can possibly get within reason. Mainly I'm looking to out do any commercial DD coil a person can possibly get in terms of the length wise thing, but also want to make it a coil in the style of the SEFs in the hopes of squeezing the DD line width as much as possible too, as well as in the hopes of perhaps it having somewhat improved stability and depth over a "conventional" DD with similar dimensions. Whether the SEF traits will translate to such a small coil I have no idea, but can't hurt to try.

Plus, the windings in that coil of yours wouldn't work. The gauge, length, and windings of the TX and RX windings have to be adjusted to match up with the specifications the particular brand of detector expects to see. For instance, all coils, big or small, for the Sovereign that I've read the resistance across measure very close to each other.

The fact that that coil of yours is 3" wide tells me it should then perhaps be possible to build a DD with only a 3" width, and who knows maybe I can squeeze it down to 2" or so perhaps? The whole thing is I just don't know if there is some physical limitation as to how small a DD can get before the field generated is pretty much useless, or if the physical size gets so small that the windings can no longer be adjusted to match certain specs the machine expects to see? That's why I'm wonder if say the resistance factor by way of using various lengths/gauges/turns can be got around by using a resistor or some other method to get it to where it needs to be.
 
Critterhunter,About 30 years ago, I opeaned compus 8' concentric coil( think it was a compus detector)
anyway it had in the center looked like about a 2" DD coil.
Have you tryed makeing 2'' DD coil.You said that you have the restance of TX and RX coil,wire size.you can
figure length of each coils by restance.wind it on your template,tape it down tight.install the pre-amp and see how
it works,if you like it paint the coils with resan and go from there.
The VLF coil that am working on.I used restance it works.I remove the Pre-amp from coil,mesured restance of each
coil.figured lengh of each DD coil,made the coils on my template,instaled pre-amp adjusted the coils to a nul.
Good Luck.
 
Frank, I've done a ton of reading over last few days elsewhere and have the L and R values for the TX/RX windings in a Sovereign. That saves me dissecting a coil since the pre-amp won't allow you to read the RX values. Problem now is I see that it seems, reading in another thread about guys making Explorer coils, that they use it appears the same gauge that is used in the stock coils and then just adjust the length and number of turns to get the R/L values within specs. Easy enough, but I can't seem to find anybody who states what gauge the TX and RX are using in a Sovereign coil. Seems people tend to be tight lipped. Seen a few Sovereign coils (big ones for the most part prior to the SEF days) were made but people didn't dive into the details and share those with people. Can't understand why people will post pics of their project and then not want to share what the specifics were. If I can hammer all this stuff down I'll share the gauge and such, along with the proper meter readings above and such.

One thing I'm still a bit confused on (still reading), is that I was under the impression the coil windings were just shielding via graphite or some particular types of tapes via covering the inner coil casing, and that this was then grounded. Easy/fair enough, but it appears there is a second shielding being twisting into the windings on coils and I haven't buttoned down that info yet here. In the past I had read a ton of this stuff prior to the SEFs making the need to build a coil no longer attractive to me, but I'm having to re-read to refresh my memory since coil design isn't a big field of knowledge for me. I have winded custom brushless motors for RC electric planes. In some respects the logistics are somewhat similar, but still there are things involved with coils for detectors I'm still filling the gaps on for myself here.

I'm assuming right now I don't need to go to a smaller gauge wire that stock to increase the resistance factor, and will just do more turns for each winding to get the wire longer (thus higher resistance).

The other blind spot for me is oscilloscopes. Never messed with them before so I've got a ton of reading to do on that. Is there any way to null the coil without using one? I can get my hands on one but I'd prefer to avoid the whole learning process of using one to null the coil. It would seem there would be a easier way to do such a thing?

Any other info/advice please share here. Got a lot of loose ends to tap down on this project...
 
Hey Frank, or anybody else. Was wondering...

Since from what I've dug up so far on the web, it appears that to build bigger or smaller coils for a machine, guys would just use the stock gauges of wire used for the TX and RX, and then it sounds like they'd keep the entire length of the wire the same as stock, but rather increase or decrease the # of turns based on coil size. IE: Same length of wire for a larger coil, but with less turns, so that things like the resistance value are kept the same (being the same length/gauge wire). Or, for a smaller coil, same length/gauge against, just using more turns for the windings.

So if that's the case, could you possibly say take a cheap 5" Excelerator coil for the BBS units, and then rip out the guts and re-wind the RX and TX wires with less turns to match the dimensions of a smaller coil, or say vise versa for building a larger coil here? If that's the case, then all the "ingredients" are already there (shielding, etc), and I could even just use the same case to house the smaller coil build inside of.

This next question is partly concerning that above, but also concerning just nulling the coil in general. I had assumed that to null a DD coil it was done simply by both windings overlapping in the center. I thought only concentrics used a null loop to balance things, but it appears with what reading I've done so far that even a DD uses a null loop on the RX winding to cancel out the effects or put it in balance with the TX winding. So even if I re-formed the windings in a existing coil, it would still have to be nulled again.

I'm wondering if, when either building a coil from scratch or if possible re-forming the windings in an existing one, that if perhaps there is a way to do it without using a scope? Since the whole point is to null it right for best stability and depth, what if I raised the sensitivity as high as possible in a low EMI environment and then just start moving the null loop around until it stabilizes, and then from there start waving a coin over it and play with the position of the loop some more until I see the best depth I can get. So long as the coil is still stable, and yet I find a spot for that loop for max depth, then I would think that would mean it's calibrated right?

Any thoughts on all of the above?

Are there any other methods to nulling a coil besides using a scope? I can get my hands on a scope and learn what needs done with that, but I'd prefer any short cuts if possible.

PS- Still can't dig up any info on the wire gauge used for the BBS coils. Anybody have those? From what I've read thus far seems people are using the same gauge of wire that a stock coil uses, and then just adjust the number of turns for the given coil size?
 
answered you on Geotech but I'll post here also.

Scope is a must. You may get it "working" without a scope but it won't be zeroed in. You will have to invest in different gauges of wire and a good scope. Gauge and turns will be way different from a 10 inch stock coil to a 4x3. It may not even be possible to make a DD that small? The coil will be extremely thick. I use 21-22awg for my TX and 29-30awg for my RX but my coils are much larger then a ML stock 10 incher. Shoot for .440uH and about 5R using the AD797 on your pre-amp for your RX. But like I said your gauge wire will be different. For my larger coils I'm about 25 turns RX and 40 turns TX but it varies and again yours will be different on such a tiny coil. Don't forget about shielding there are many methods you can try. Coil is useless without proper shielding.

Good Luck

Bob
 
Thank you sir for all that great info. Should be of help to anybody looking to experiment and try their hand at building a Sovereign/Excalibur coil, including me. Now I don't have to dissect a cheap BBS compatible coil to find out what specs I need to shoot for.

Thanks again.
 
Critterhunter, For one thing WE use restance we are low TEC,IFyou ask for restance to make
a coil,High TEC people wont reply. we both are learing.You have all-ready did a lot of research
now make a coil.
I have a G2, I wonted to make a larger coil.I purched a 5" coil, removed electronice,mesured restance
of both coils,tryed to match wire size. Made a DD coil it worked. Made a concentric coil it did not work.
Asked questions on this Forum.Reply did you use a bucking coil (no) learned how to use a bucking coil.
DD coils have bucking coil built in.when you over lap 2 coils its the same as a bucking coil.You ask about
how to null without a scope.tape one coil to your templet,DD coil. overlap each coils leave a air gap.coil
will make a noise,move coil not taped down in and out of air gap untill it nulls.
To stant wind 2-3" round coils on your templet. tape one coil down place second coil on top about 3/4 over
bottom coil. install pre-amp,to manully adjust null move top coil to increase or decrease air gap untill it nulles.
Bear in mind,you could Ruin your Soverign.
I recommend that you purchase a 5" coil and forget about makeing a 2" coil
 
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