3 coins in 3 hours & a spoon.

[JimmyCT]

Today, I was bumming around thinking about where I was going to head out to. I found a new park one town over but it was loaded with baseball teams. (It is an old farm property with the old barn still intact and in use- donated to the town by an elderly couple that passed away)oh well, so I drive over to the park right near my home and kind of set up in my mind where I want to dedicate my time in the field. This time instead of sweeping West to East & East to West, I will sweep North to South & South to North. Changing my sweep direction netted me 3 cents and a spoon! in the same area I pulled out two other wheat cents (from the 1920's & 1930's) at an earlier date. Targets were sparse.... but recovered an 1881 Indian Head cent, a 1919 and 1940 wheat cent.

A word on this IH cent. It was tough deciding to dig or not.... See, when I first swept over it, the audio increased in pitch and with the wiggle I eventually get it to climb to 177 on the meter. Then when I turn 90, the audio and meter were all over the place almost like a bottlecap signal. The audio and meter jumped up and down 164,165, 172 ,175, and on one instant hitting 177. At this angle, I had to perform the super swiggle wiggle to get this thing to climb lol. but was very iffy as it was not a climbing signal. Just very odd as it was only 3-4 inches deep. Obviously I dug the bugger and out popped the 1881 Indian Head Cent.

Question for Y'all- how do you clean coins? The Indian head is not in the greatest shape. I think it was lost in the dirt since 1882 lol. The dirt is compacted on the coin. How can I go about removing it without obviously damaging the coin? I have soaked it in warm water and used a soft toothbrush but that just doesn't cut it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.



Onto the spoon... it states WB Nickel Silver. However, this spoon lost all its nickel and silver - this thing looks sick It registered right down around 143,144-145 jumped to 149 at one section of the spoon but mostly steady at 143.
I can also see in this field where the land dips down as to where there was most likely an old home. It is very slight but is noticeable to people like us who are "sniffing out" the landscape. In the part where the land dips down, I have found 2 IH cents, 1894, 1881, 5-6 wheat cents ranging from 1919 - 1950's. no silver, YET lol I am not greedy... it would be nice if it coughed up a nice silver dime from the mid 1800's
I shall keep you posted as I progress. Thanks for reading and happy hunting!

 

[Neil]

n/t

 

[bootyhoundpa]

most people soak crusty coins in olive oil for several days.....then you can try to scrape that crust off with a toothpic....my soil is also very unfriendly to copper....a method i use if the coin is toasted anyway and totally unidentifiable is to drip an acid brush in muriatic acid and gently brush the copper coin till it starts turning white.... imediatly rinse with water but dont rub it yet... it is at this point the will be most indentifiable...softly rub coin -high spots turn back to copper color while low spots remain white....its at this pointi look at it with a jewelers loop to magnify and identify......then scrub withsoap and water and resoak in olive oil a few days....then remove from olive oil and letcopper tarnish to a dark shade......at this point i tumble with other copper coins pennies ect,,,check tumbler hourly until high spot are bright and low spots remain dark......dont over tumble as too much brightness on a coin with mininmum detail makes harder to see detail....then rinse off with soap and water and apply a libera lcoating of pastse wax as a sealer.....again this method is only for toasted coins which beyond recognition...... you can also make your own electrolasys unit out of an old ac to low voltage dc wall charger....ther are instuctions on some metal detecting sites........on silver i just use a soft brissel toothbrush with non abrasive toothpaste...it ussually cleansem up real nice.... any time you clean a coin it is at youre own risk.......many people will tell you to never clean a coin......to each his ownnn.....

 

[Rick(ND)]

I see you are getting used to the Sovereign and learning each time out with it. Remember what that IH sounded like and how it acted and you will find many more good coins others have missed as like I have said over and over again that once you get to know what the Sovereign is telling you it is going to surprise you. If the tone is climbing and I see a 177 even for a split second I know it is a deep IH or a older wheat penny, but can be a new zinc penny too as it will read the same, but if it act deep chance are it is not a new zinc. Now on the real tough ones as you will be learning with some time with the Sovereign that some of the real deep coins will give a very slight tone change if you are going slow enough and with doing a slight small wiggle over just that area the numbers on the meter and the tone will be trying to climb, but just cant make it to correct numbers will be some of the real deep coins. I have had deep barber dimes and other coins read no higher than 135, but they sure were trying to make it to a good number and tone as it wouldn't lock on to any one number and were jumpy, but could tell it was sure trying to climb and that was enough for me to dig. These are ones that are over 10 inches deep or has some other trash with them. In one old park I got over 70 old coins and i know less then 40 % read correctly with the others the tone and number were trying to climb by doing a small slight wiggle of the coil, most were getting in the 160-165 and not locking on, those that locked on and were not trying to climb were trash and some misc items.
If you want the deep one you have to really swing slow, get the slight positive tone changes and work them and try to get the correct numbers by just going over just that small area, many will read correctly if you swing it correctly, those that are trying to climb, but cant quite make it with both meter readings and tone are the deep ones that the Sovereign is seeing, but cant quite ID them, those that lock on are those the Sovereign has ID correctly, those that are weak, small and the numbers jump around and trying to climb to a good one are the ones I love to dig. Much of this will come with experience and after you have seen and heard and understand what the Sovereign is telling you then you will be impressed at what the Sovereign can do. Be prepared for others with other detectors telling you it is impossible to find coins at these depth and may not believe you, but you will know it is all possible when you have the right detector and know what it is telling you as you have dug these targets that deep and in with trash. Some people you will just have to show them how well it will work before they will believe you too.

Anyway good luck and I am hoping to see some good finds found by you now that you are seeing some of what the Sovereign can do, the more you use it the more you will learn and understand and the more better find you will see.


Rick

 

[JimmyCT]

Thanks Bootyhound for the ideas. I completely understand cleaning coins is at ones risk but when a coin is toast like you mention, I want to clean it up and add it to my case of trophies. Happy hunting!

most people soak crusty coins in olive oil for several days.....then you can try to scrape that crust off with a toothpic....my soil is also very unfriendly to copper....a method i use if the coin is toasted anyway and totally unidentifiable is to drip an acid brush in muriatic acid and gently brush the copper coin till it starts turning white.... imediatly rinse with water but dont rub it yet... it is at this point the will be most indentifiable...softly rub coin -high spots turn back to copper color while low spots remain white....its at this pointi look at it with a jewelers loop to magnify and identify......then scrub withsoap and water and resoak in olive oil a few days....then remove from olive oil and letcopper tarnish to a dark shade......at this point i tumble with other copper coins pennies ect,,,check tumbler hourly until high spot are bright and low spots remain dark......dont over tumble as too much brightness on a coin with mininmum detail makes harder to see detail....then rinse off with soap and water and apply a libera lcoating of pastse wax as a sealer.....again this method is only for toasted coins which beyond recognition...... you can also make your own electrolasys unit out of an old ac to low voltage dc wall charger....ther are instuctions on some metal detecting sites........on silver i just use a soft brissel toothbrush with non abrasive toothpaste...it ussually cleansem up real nice.... any time you clean a coin it is at youre own risk.......many people will tell you to never clean a coin......to each his ownnn.....

 

[JimmyCT]

Hi Rick,

Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Question for you on the deep barber dimes and other coins that read no higher than 135. were the coins repeatable? For instance, if you wiggled the sovereign to get it to 135 and turned 90 are you still getting a reading of 135 (less or more ) or is this just a one way decent sounding target that the sovereign can't get to climb any higher? Evven though the meter was jumping was it jumping in a positive direction or would it dropped back to lower numbers then try to climb? Did you ever see negative numbers appear but then climb? Then dig to find out it WAS a coin? I am adding this to my rolodex brain as we speak lol Like yesterday when I was out, there was a target that hit up around 162 but would drop to a -135 but then I would physically move the coil a little to the left and wiggle it there and the meter / audio would climb but then "snap" the audio would cut out with a snapping noise. I would turn 90 and then the signal would move 4 inches. I went with the idea that this was a rusty iron object as the signal kept on moving.

As far as the functions and makeup of the detector, I love it! Like I had mentioned before, I am going back to many spots I have hit with other detectors and hundreds of other detectorists have hit as well. The others telling me they are beaten and cleaned out and don't waste my time. Now I tell myself, not so if it hasn't been hit with the GT lol I am well pleased with what is has been coming out of the ground at these sites that most have written off for good. Like yesterday, I spent much time with what you were stating below. I analyzed every signal & I went over from several different angles. That is why I didn't find quantity but did find quality. I am really taken it slow and investigating every little signal and it is paying off for me. Again, thanks to many of you here on findmall, you have truly helped me out tremendously.

I see you are getting used to the Sovereign and learning each time out with it. Remember what that IH sounded like and how it acted and you will find many more good coins others have missed as like I have said over and over again that once you get to know what the Sovereign is telling you it is going to surprise you. If the tone is climbing and I see a 177 even for a split second I know it is a deep IH or a older wheat penny, but can be a new zinc penny too as it will read the same, but if it act deep chance are it is not a new zinc. Now on the real tough ones as you will be learning with some time with the Sovereign that some of the real deep coins will give a very slight tone change if you are going slow enough and with doing a slight small wiggle over just that area the numbers on the meter and the tone will be trying to climb, but just cant make it to correct numbers will be some of the real deep coins. I have had deep barber dimes and other coins read no higher than 135, but they sure were trying to make it to a good number and tone as it wouldn't lock on to any one number and were jumpy, but could tell it was sure trying to climb and that was enough for me to dig. These are ones that are over 10 inches deep or has some other trash with them. In one old park I got over 70 old coins and i know less then 40 % read correctly with the others the tone and number were trying to climb by doing a small slight wiggle of the coil, most were getting in the 160-165 and not locking on, those that locked on and were not trying to climb were trash and some misc items.
If you want the deep one you have to really swing slow, get the slight positive tone changes and work them and try to get the correct numbers by just going over just that small area, many will read correctly if you swing it correctly, those that are trying to climb, but cant quite make it with both meter readings and tone are the deep ones that the Sovereign is seeing, but cant quite ID them, those that lock on are those the Sovereign has ID correctly, those that are weak, small and the numbers jump around and trying to climb to a good one are the ones I love to dig. Much of this will come with experience and after you have seen and heard and understand what the Sovereign is telling you then you will be impressed at what the Sovereign can do. Be prepared for others with other detectors telling you it is impossible to find coins at these depth and may not believe you, but you will know it is all possible when you have the right detector and know what it is telling you as you have dug these targets that deep and in with trash. Some people you will just have to show them how well it will work before they will believe you too.

Anyway good luck and I am hoping to see some good finds found by you now that you are seeing some of what the Sovereign can do, the more you use it the more you will learn and understand and the more better find you will see.


Rick

 

[GunnarMN]

Now if you find a bowl, you are ready to have some cerial, and you will get you daily alowanc of copper from the spoon , nice indian, but i bet silver woud come out nice in that spot ,

 

[Rick(ND)]

It is hard to explain and something you learn from experience and knowing the Sovereign, but sounds like you are seeing some of this from what you have explained. Most are so deep or close to trash as why you have to go so very slow or you would never hear them as the Sovereign don't have the time to report back to you what it sees. I do this super slow in area where I know could hold deep coins in older parks where I know people hung around at or some real trashy area of a old park.
These signal will just be a tone change and some just slight one too, but I notice from experience this tone will grab my attention as it is a higher tone right now, so I will then work it back and forth trying to get it the best i can and the tones are trying to climb a bit by just going over this small area and just wiggling the coil back and forth, like trying to massage the ground with the coil. The tones and meter reading will try climb a bit, but being so small and weak it is hard to get to the correct ones. I will then try to bring this signal to the very tip of the coil where it reads the best and come at it from a different angle and get it to REPEAT the best I can and if it is just a null I will try from a different angle again so I know if it is a repeatable signal, sometimes I may go around it several times if and see if it will move because if it did chances are it is not a good target and i am getting false readings. There is some that sound so good, but will null out most of the way around checking it out and these are the ones it just sounds too good one way to not check it out. The numbers are ones that will start low and as you wiggle the coil over it trying to get them better they may range from around the 130 to around the 160 and may see them hit 175 or more just for a split second and then drop back to 140 to 160 and in some case to a low 100 number, but by wiggling the coil bring them back to a 160 or so. Some you will see from experience are tough to get to repeat, but don't null either that are good too, but hard for the Sovereign to see.
Now with the GT it has more power than any of the other Sovereigns and because of this it will false more too as i have seen as it will fool you more, but found out that you want to get the signal to repeat more from different angles as a false signal will null more.
Another thing I do a lot on those that are too iffy or hard to get is switch to all metal pinpoint and go side to side trying to center the target, then push the coil to the ground and turn 90 degrees and go side to side again and when the signal is the best you will have the coil right over the center of the target. Now push the coil back to the ground so it don't move off that very spot switch back to disc and just slightly move the coil and if it stays the same or starts to climb I will be digging, but if it nulls it is a trash item, but had a few null just slightly then will start to climb as those i will dig too as you may have pinpointed on top of a nail with a good coin right under it, like I say most of this come with experience and knowing your Sovereign
If I can get a slight high high tone that is weak and small and work it a bit trying to get it to get better and the numbers and tones are trying to get better and repeatable in the same spot I am interested, but if it is moving and nulling I don't spend much time with those as chance are they are iron. Many times a few sweeps of the coil is all I need to decide to check out further or walk away,
For me and others we have to have the right equipment and accessories to find some of these deep targets others don't get and find for me the Minelab Sovereign is the detector we like and the one I know the best from using it. I have to have a good 180 meter, tried the others like the 550 meter or the analog meter and can not do as well as the 180 meter. I also swear by the Sun Ray S-1 probe as many of the deeper good targets would still be in the ground if I didn't have this probe as you lose many of these signals once the ground has been opened up, or if it was at a angle the pinpoint can be off several inches, so with the S-1 I am able to find those Many are unable to. I also love my Lesche digger as it is the best digger I have found in my 38 year of detecting.

I hope this will help you a bit more, but the real learning is experience with the GT and by using it in actual hunts as you will see you seem to learn more each and every time out with it, it is a amazing detector.

Rick

 

[JimmyCT]

LOL your funny gunnar I like your sense of humor. I really hope with due diligence, silver surfaces. Maybe that bowl might just be filled with silver lol.

Now if you find a bowl, you are ready to have some cerial, and you will get you daily alowanc of copper from the spoon , nice indian, but i bet silver woud come out nice in that spot ,

 

[JimmyCT]

Rick,

Thanks so much for the explanation. "I am picking up what you are laying down" I understand what you are stating about "scrubbing" the ground with the coil. Yes, I certainly get fooled by iron that is for sure lol. However, I am learning more about how they differentiate. (ex. false signals nulling more) Even though they do,sometimes I still dig just to make sure because they sound "too good to be true" usually it is a let down lol but sometimes (still being new at this) I want to double make sure. There would be nothing worse than leaving a large cent or silver coin behind that is sleeping next to iron. I think back to the large cent I found. There were nails sitting next to that large cent but the coin sounded off nice and clear both East to West & West to East but when I turned 90 it just broke & nulled - period. There wasn't so much as a blip. But the clear, distinction of a higher conductive metal was evident. I didn't have to struggle with getting a high tone / 180 - that baby just sung loud and clear that a coin / precious metal was present. That was a nice experience early on. However, I have found other coins next to iron and really had to work the coil in the swiggle wiggle. I am noticing that the ones I really work to get a good response from and start to blip and click as soon as I turn a hair end up being iron. ( they also start moving on me as well) Yes the Lesche digger is an awesome tool! The S-1 probe looks nice / time saving but I don't want to mount anything on my machine. I always keep my unit hip-mounted. ( I need to keep it light as possible) And most of all, I love the DTI II meter as it has helped me out tremendously. Personally, without a meter, I would of buried the detector in my backyard lol. I have hearing loss in both ears so a meter is a must for me. Thanks again for your words of wisdom / experience in helping a newbie

It is hard to explain and something you learn from experience and knowing the Sovereign, but sounds like you are seeing some of this from what you have explained. Most are so deep or close to trash as why you have to go so very slow or you would never hear them as the Sovereign don't have the time to report back to you what it sees. I do this super slow in area where I know could hold deep coins in older parks where I know people hung around at or some real trashy area of a old park.
These signal will just be a tone change and some just slight one too, but I notice from experience this tone will grab my attention as it is a higher tone right now, so I will then work it back and forth trying to get it the best i can and the tones are trying to climb a bit by just going over this small area and just wiggling the coil back and forth, like trying to massage the ground with the coil. The tones and meter reading will try climb a bit, but being so small and weak it is hard to get to the correct ones. I will then try to bring this signal to the very tip of the coil where it reads the best and come at it from a different angle and get it to REPEAT the best I can and if it is just a null I will try from a different angle again so I know if it is a repeatable signal, sometimes I may go around it several times if and see if it will move because if it did chances are it is not a good target and i am getting false readings. There is some that sound so good, but will null out most of the way around checking it out and these are the ones it just sounds too good one way to not check it out. The numbers are ones that will start low and as you wiggle the coil over it trying to get them better they may range from around the 130 to around the 160 and may see them hit 175 or more just for a split second and then drop back to 140 to 160 and in some case to a low 100 number, but by wiggling the coil bring them back to a 160 or so. Some you will see from experience are tough to get to repeat, but don't null either that are good too, but hard for the Sovereign to see.
Now with the GT it has more power than any of the other Sovereigns and because of this it will false more too as i have seen as it will fool you more, but found out that you want to get the signal to repeat more from different angles as a false signal will null more.
Another thing I do a lot on those that are too iffy or hard to get is switch to all metal pinpoint and go side to side trying to center the target, then push the coil to the ground and turn 90 degrees and go side to side again and when the signal is the best you will have the coil right over the center of the target. Now push the coil back to the ground so it don't move off that very spot switch back to disc and just slightly move the coil and if it stays the same or starts to climb I will be digging, but if it nulls it is a trash item, but had a few null just slightly then will start to climb as those i will dig too as you may have pinpointed on top of a nail with a good coin right under it, like I say most of this come with experience and knowing your Sovereign
If I can get a slight high high tone that is weak and small and work it a bit trying to get it to get better and the numbers and tones are trying to get better and repeatable in the same spot I am interested, but if it is moving and nulling I don't spend much time with those as chance are they are iron. Many times a few sweeps of the coil is all I need to decide to check out further or walk away,
For me and others we have to have the right equipment and accessories to find some of these deep targets others don't get and find for me the Minelab Sovereign is the detector we like and the one I know the best from using it. I have to have a good 180 meter, tried the others like the 550 meter or the analog meter and can not do as well as the 180 meter. I also swear by the Sun Ray S-1 probe as many of the deeper good targets would still be in the ground if I didn't have this probe as you lose many of these signals once the ground has been opened up, or if it was at a angle the pinpoint can be off several inches, so with the S-1 I am able to find those Many are unable to. I also love my Lesche digger as it is the best digger I have found in my 38 year of detecting.

I hope this will help you a bit more, but the real learning is experience with the GT and by using it in actual hunts as you will see you seem to learn more each and every time out with it, it is a amazing detector.

Rick

 

[Critterhunter]

Nice finds. That penny might have been on edge. I've dug some silvers that were very hard to get to climb to 180. Had to do the wiggle and they'd slowly walk up to 180 and then fall like a house of cards, only to do the same thing over and over again. No trash or iron in the hole so I was careful to see why they were so hard to climb when they weren't all that deep. I knew they were probably silver (hunting the woods) so I took my time to dig them up and see exactly how they were sitting in the ground and they were on edge. Iron or other trash will some times do something similar but they are far more random in numbers when "climbing" (if you want to say they were climbing) to 180, where as the coins on edge really did climb and were much more steady in progression of numbers as they did.

For the penny, I built a homemade electralysis (spelling?) machine by using a plug in DC wall convertor. Those are easy to find...old answering machines, phone chargers, etc. So long as they say DC output on them and the amps are low (milli amps). Attach stainless steel such as a stainless steel spoon to the one lead that doesn't bubble, and attach your coin to the other lead that does bubble. Mix some salt in water and drop it in there for say 5 minutes, perhaps as long as 15 or 20 if it's really crusty. I don't usually use this on anything but silver like rings that have tiny hard to reach places on them, but it will do the job on copper too. Silver I normaly just use water and baking soda on and rub it between my fingers.

I have heard this trick for copper coins but haven't tried it yet....Heat it good and hot over a candle or your stove and then throw it in a cold glass of ice water. It will shock the crust off of it. I have heard iron relics work well with this too and other metals. People heat them up in a fire. After the coin is cleaned regardless of how you cleaned it then rub some olive oil on it and it will bring out the details and protect it from further degradation. You can also just soak the coin in olive oil but I've found it takes months on the real crusty ones and some times it never works.

 

[JimmyCT]

Hey Critterhunter,

Thanks for the cleaning / preservation tips. Question for you on this electralysis machine. I have a DC output - you mention to attach a stainless steel item such as a spoon. I am not sure by what you are saying about the one lead not bubbling and the other that does. Is there anyway of knowing before hand or attach one to each lead then if the wrong one is bubbling just switch? You can tell I am not an electronics major lol

Thanks for the tip on iron /trash climbing. That makes a lot of sense. This morning I noticed that on a target.( I realize this now) The numbers were not what I would call smooth / steady when climbing like a coin. This target was stubborn / random in numbers trying to get that baby to climb. I eventually got it to 180 hmmm thanks for pointing this out.

Nice finds. That penny might have been on edge. I've dug some silvers that were very hard to get to climb to 180. Had to do the wiggle and they'd slowly walk up to 180 and then fall like a house of cards, only to do the same thing over and over again. No trash or iron in the hole so I was careful to see why they were so hard to climb when they weren't all that deep. I knew they were probably silver (hunting the woods) so I took my time to dig them up and see exactly how they were sitting in the ground and they were on edge. Iron or other trash will some times do something similar but they are far more random in numbers when "climbing" (if you want to say they were climbing) to 180, where as the coins on edge really did climb and were much more steady in progression of numbers as they did.

For the penny, I built a homemade electralysis (spelling?) machine by using a plug in DC wall convertor. Those are easy to find...old answering machines, phone chargers, etc. So long as they say DC output on them and the amps are low (milli amps). Attach stainless steel such as a stainless steel spoon to the one lead that doesn't bubble, and attach your coin to the other lead that does bubble. Mix some salt in water and drop it in there for say 5 minutes, perhaps as long as 15 or 20 if it's really crusty. I don't usually use this on anything but silver like rings that have tiny hard to reach places on them, but it will do the job on copper too. Silver I normaly just use water and baking soda on and rub it between my fingers.

I have heard this trick for copper coins but haven't tried it yet....Heat it good and hot over a candle or your stove and then throw it in a cold glass of ice water. It will shock the crust off of it. I have heard iron relics work well with this too and other metals. People heat them up in a fire. After the coin is cleaned regardless of how you cleaned it then rub some olive oil on it and it will bring out the details and protect it from further degradation. You can also just soak the coin in olive oil but I've found it takes months on the real crusty ones and some times it never works.

 

[fwcrawford]

Jim,
Congradulations on the Indian head cent.
I have had very good results by heating up some hydrogen peroxide and letting the copper coins soak for about 5 minutes at a time and then rinse until it is in the shape you want.
I like to let them soak just long enought to get the dirt off, but try to leave the "patina" as this helps show the detail of the coin.
If it stays in the peroxide too long, the coin has a dull finish and is hard to make out any detail and if the corrosion is bad, sometimes leaving the patina on helps save some of the detail.
Just heat the peroxide for about 30 seconds in a small plastic or glass container and then drop the coin in it.
It will start to fizz and this removes the dirt.
I have seen this method do wonders on Indian head cents and the more crusting they have on them, the better they turn out.
It's like the dirt helped to slow down the corrosion.
Good luck,
Felix

 

[JimmyCT]

Thanks Felix,
I will have to give that a shot better than me with electricity lol although I would like to try out the electralysis (spelling) machine that critter is talking about too. Have you ever tried this method? Hope all is well. - Jim

Jim,
Congradulations on the Indian head cent.
I have had very good results by heating up some hydrogen peroxide and letting the copper coins soak for about 5 minutes at a time and then rinse until it is in the shape you want.
I like to let them soak just long enought to get the dirt off, but try to leave the "patina" as this helps show the detail of the coin.
If it stays in the peroxide too long, the coin has a dull finish and is hard to make out any detail and if the corrosion is bad, sometimes leaving the patina on helps save some of the detail.
Just heat the peroxide for about 30 seconds in a small plastic or glass container and then drop the coin in it.
It will start to fizz and this removes the dirt.
I have seen this method do wonders on Indian head cents and the more crusting they have on them, the better they turn out.
It's like the dirt helped to slow down the corrosion.
Good luck,
Felix

 

[Ron from Michigan]

EPL,nice finds and hope they continue.HH Ron

 

[Critterhunter]

Hook a stainless steel spoon to both output leads of the little DC millamp output from the wall wart (what they call those little black boxes that plug into the wall I guess). Put both spoons into a glass of salt water on OPPOSITE sides of the glass. Don't let them touch. Whichever one is bubbling is the one the coin should be used with. Bend that spoon into an "L" shape and bend the top of the handle into a "/I" shape so it will hook onto the top of the glass. The coin will then just sit right in the spoon it's self. Or, just do the "L" part and then use a clothes pin to clip it at the top to the lip of the glass. Main thing is keep the wire soldered at the top or roach clipped there so that it stays above and out of the water. Otherwise you'll soon eat up the wire. Clip the other spoon (the one that wasn't bubbling) to the other side of the glass. About 5 minutes should do the trick, more if it's real crusty.

Just for safety sake don't mess with the glass or put your hand in there unless the thing is unplugged from the wall. Some people like to put a little lemon juice in the salt water too but I never saw the need myself.

 

[JimmyCT]

Thanks Ron for your kind words.

EPL,nice finds and hope they continue.HH Ron

 

[JimmyCT]

Thanks critter for the directions. Sounds easy enough. Ten-four on the safety part.

Hook a stainless steel spoon to both output leads of the little DC millamp output from the wall wart (what they call those little black boxes that plug into the wall I guess). Put both spoons into a glass of salt water on OPPOSITE sides of the glass. Don't let them touch. Whichever one is bubbling is the one the coin should be used with. Bend that spoon into an "L" shape and bend the top of the handle into a "/I" shape so it will hook onto the top of the glass. The coin will then just sit right in the spoon it's self. Or, just do the "L" part and then use a clothes pin to clip it at the top to the lip of the glass. Main thing is keep the wire soldered at the top or roach clipped there so that it stays above and out of the water. Otherwise you'll soon eat up the wire. Clip the other spoon (the one that wasn't bubbling) to the other side of the glass. About 5 minutes should do the trick, more if it's real crusty.

Just for safety sake don't mess with the glass or put your hand in there unless the thing is unplugged from the wall. Some people like to put a little lemon juice in the salt water too but I never saw the need myself.