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1270 MODIFICATION
- Thread starter BRUSH HOG
- Start date
It's probably very possible to do....I think the problem revolves around the underside trigger...
Chest or hipmounted the trigger would be getting pushed around against you all the while it seems. Maybe someone really skilled could make a 1270 stay always bodymounted, & move the trigger to the top or side of the box??
Not sure about that though....just tossin' wild ideas out there.
Bill
Chest or hipmounted the trigger would be getting pushed around against you all the while it seems. Maybe someone really skilled could make a 1270 stay always bodymounted, & move the trigger to the top or side of the box??
Not sure about that though....just tossin' wild ideas out there.
Bill
Jackpine Savage
Active member
Jeff,
It only take a few minutes to remove the control box from the handle.
First remove the nuts and star washers from the coil cable connector and pinpoint switch. Next the 2 screws in the battery compartment go along with the 2 deeply recessed screws on the underside of the box on either side of the handle grip. Carefully remove the top control box half and unplug the speaker wires at the circuit board. Once you have the circuit board out you can access the bolt and 2 small screws that hold the lower box half to the handle. I used clear silicon sealant to fill in the holes left by removing the bolt and screws. Bill is right about the P/P switch... make up a guard of some sort to protect the pinpoint toggle from damage. I use a heavy canvas army pouch (canteen?) with belt clips to hold and protect the control box. Get some coils with 7' cables and you are set to go.
Tom
It only take a few minutes to remove the control box from the handle.
First remove the nuts and star washers from the coil cable connector and pinpoint switch. Next the 2 screws in the battery compartment go along with the 2 deeply recessed screws on the underside of the box on either side of the handle grip. Carefully remove the top control box half and unplug the speaker wires at the circuit board. Once you have the circuit board out you can access the bolt and 2 small screws that hold the lower box half to the handle. I used clear silicon sealant to fill in the holes left by removing the bolt and screws. Bill is right about the P/P switch... make up a guard of some sort to protect the pinpoint toggle from damage. I use a heavy canvas army pouch (canteen?) with belt clips to hold and protect the control box. Get some coils with 7' cables and you are set to go.
Tom
Thanks for all the idea's. But thought I would interject something that happened to me this morning, I called the Fisher service number-915-633-8354 at about 10:00 am this morning to speak with a service technicain also pertaining to the mod. A woman answered the phone, 1st Texas. I explained my question as stated above, she transfered me to an extension, whereupon I left my name info etc. Still haven't heard from them... 2:30 pm Eastern. I also called what turned out to be Fisher's direct number in Ca., 209-826-3294. She answered the phone as Fisher,transfered me to Jerry in service who offered some suggestions and idea's. He looked up the parts I need, called back within 15 minutes and handle.ds the situation with speed and a GREAT attitude! I asked him if he was making the changed and unfortunatly said no. Wow, what great service and so far... non from 1st Texas. He also said that 1st Texas was going to keep the 2 different lines of machines seperate, ie: cheaper "harry homeowner" vs professional grade machines.