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1266x
- Thread starter TNreb
- Start date
WV62
Well-known member
For these machines it is all about condition, good to real good $325 to $375, when you get below good condition be real careful. The dollars could be anywhere, but for one that is well used but works as new, maybe $250 to $275. Others will post and you will get some more numbers to work with.
Just watch for a good machine and a good deal, maybe you will luck out like my brother. He was working on a test garden in his front yard and a neighbor walked over and gave him a pretty nice 1266x, all it needed was batteries.
I got mine the old fashion way, I bought it off ebay for $350 maybe 6 months ago.
Ron in WV
Just watch for a good machine and a good deal, maybe you will luck out like my brother. He was working on a test garden in his front yard and a neighbor walked over and gave him a pretty nice 1266x, all it needed was batteries.
I got mine the old fashion way, I bought it off ebay for $350 maybe 6 months ago.
Ron in WV
TheOtherLeggoHead
Member
I have yet to see a nice one for under $400. You see a nice one cheaper than that, you better jump on it.
MarkCZ
Well-known member
TheOtherLeggoHead said:
My brothers for $350.00 I think is top notched, really nice.
Under $400.00, I like free! LOL
And I got one of those "Rare" "Hard To Find" 5"x10" coils for $31.00 including shipping (with the coil cover)
I got the little 5" concentric coil for free as well (a birthday gift).
But really, a good price for a used in NICE condition 1266X should be around $325.00 to not over $375.00 Maybe $400.00 if it comes with some extra stuff like an extra coil.
Mark
This was my dads when he passed away 2 years ago I took it out for about 10 hours it is a bullet finding machine.He used it for about 2 weeks when he bought it and went back to his 1265 he coin hunted mostly said 1266 was too sensitive dug to many nails I do not think this machine has 50 hours on it I pulled it out of closet when I saw this post never even cleaned it up will put on ebay before weekend as soon as I figure how to ship it.Maybe someone can put it to use.
MarkCZ
Well-known member
That's one like mine! It's the early version of the 1266x.Prep1957 said:
And I believe it has two stacked circuit boards (mine does for sure) instead of the single boards of the later 1266x. (notice the white spider coil)
Its my understanding that when Fisher put out the 1266 (an upgraded 1265) that they couldn't at the time get all the electronics to fit onto one board. A year or so later the technology advanced enough to compress the circuits onto one board, some say that when they did that there was some loss of performance but most claimed that if there was it wasn't enough to tell.
Mark
TheOtherLeggoHead
Member
It will go for four.
MarkCZ
Well-known member
Wile.E said:
You say the one you got has twin circuit boards? (if it does)
They may tend to have a little problem, mine does and I seen one sometime back on ebay that had the problem. The problem doesn't seem to effect performance.
Here is the problem!
The two boards uses two common mounts to mount them to the front control panel, one mount on each side of the boards. The mounts are two 90 degree bent metal arms that connect to the front panel and what happened on mine was when you pug and unplug the headphones, or push or pull the sensitivity control the metal arms tend to flex. After time mine had gotten to where the flex got kind-a bad and it let the whole front panel wiggle or move back and forth from top to bottom. I thought mine had something broken on the inside and when I pulled it apart that's when I found out about the mounting system! Once inside and I found the problem I didn't see anyway to really fix it? but I was concerned that if I let it continue to flex that in time the arms or one of them would break.
Before I took it apart and in my mine I thought the controls and the headphone jack was hard mounted to the board and that the front panel was mounted using the threaded collars and the hex nuts on the bodies of each, NOT! they are wired to the boards, not hard mounted! I was glad that it didn't have nothing broken, but I didn't like the flexing, also nothing being broken left me with nothing to fix.
Anyway I put it back together with the problem of some way to steady-up the front panel??? (remember my 1266 was giving to me, for free!)
This probably sounds like a bad idea, but it's what I came up with at the time.
After I got it together I decide to hold the front panel in firm and put some short beads of super-glue jell in the curve of the corners at the front panel and the control housing and held pressure on the front panel for several minutes until the glue had set pretty good, then I let it set overnight for time to fully cure. The next day I added one more short bead about middle of the bottom of the front panel and I let it dry overnight. Each bead was only about an inch long, I also tried to keep the beads very narrow as to not make it look like a mess, I was also concerned about the super glue frosting the plastic and making it look white and that was another reason for the VERY small beads of glue.
Now the question! could it be gotten apart if it ever needed repaired?
With mine and it being free and its age I had decided that if it ever really goes bad that I wasn't going to send it off for repair anyway, if I could fix it then I figured I could use an excite-o knife and cut the glue (maybe??) if that don 't work then I guess its just history.
Some other ideas for the interested!
The control housing NEEDS a four point mount where four nice (neat) screws could be inserted through the four corners of the front panel which would be real easy IF?? the housing had some kind of stay or mounting arms to screw to (a bit of a problem, but a good idea)
The next idea would have been for the front panel to have a slip in ring that would fit up against the front panel and that had a flat that fit up against the extended area of the control housing, then some tiny screws could be inserted through the extended sides of the control housing into the side of the ring.
That was some of the ideas I had thought of after I had put the detector back together!
Oh, later on after I glued mine I saw the one on ebay that had the same problem as mine, how I knew that was because I seen glue in the corners of the front panel.
I don't know how the later single circuit board models have their front panels mounted, but I've never seen them glued nor have I ever heard of anybody having the problem with them?
Mark