Lets hear about anyone making a new stand for their 1266-X's. You know, the one that's under the battery compartment. They were made out of plastic originally, and my 1266 looks like its been through 2 world wars, and then some. But it still works like a charm. Lets see some pics of ideas too.....nge
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1266-X with broken stand
- Thread starter nge
- Start date
steve in so la
Well-known member
is to glue a new stand on - if you can get one. I canaballized one from an old 1265 and glued (marine tex) it down. Fisher would probably send a new one to you. Steve in so az
nge, I just got thru repairing my 1265-X. I used 1/4" aluminum flat plate and had a friend at a sheet metal shop to make the correct bends and I also made it about a 1/2" taller. I drilled the old pop rivets out and took the whole thing apart (8 rivets) so that I could easily remove the rest of the rivets out of the shaft. You will probably have to use a punch to knock the rivets the rest of the way out of the shaft once you remove the two piece battery compartment. Also, you do not have to remove the top piece of the battery compartment to repair the stand, but mine was a little loose and the arm rest was bent, so I went ahead and repaired it all. I used 1/4" aluminum pop rivets. I think 6 - 1/4"x3/8" and 2 - 1/4"x1/2" Make sure to drill that larger hole in the center of the stand so you get to that one rivet in case you ever have to remove the lower compartment again. Oh yea, I painted the new stand black with Duplicolor Wheel Paint before riveting it back to the lower compartment. Hope this helps! Smokey.
MarkCZ
Well-known member
To mount it you could get you some of that 3M brand double back tape, the stuff with the foam core. The 3M brand seems to be a premium product and cut right it should hold the stand on forever.
I've seen arm cups (cuffs) made out of cross sectioned (split) 6" PVC pipe, which turned upside down would make a stand. Just rivet it to a thin plate, lay a bead of epoxy down each side where the roll leaves the plate, then use the double sided tape to mount it to the detector.
Better yet, use the correct length of those screw rivets put together with red loc-tite that way it would be really flat on both sides, then epoxy the sides at the rolls, then mount it to the detector.
Mark
I've seen arm cups (cuffs) made out of cross sectioned (split) 6" PVC pipe, which turned upside down would make a stand. Just rivet it to a thin plate, lay a bead of epoxy down each side where the roll leaves the plate, then use the double sided tape to mount it to the detector.
Better yet, use the correct length of those screw rivets put together with red loc-tite that way it would be really flat on both sides, then epoxy the sides at the rolls, then mount it to the detector.
Mark