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00 31 is driving me crazy!!! What can I do??? High tones all of the time.
- Thread starter cspene
- Start date
A
Anonymous
Guest
Use Ferrous sounds. Makes the iron a low tone while the silver is still a high tone. Also makes bottlecaps a high tone so if you're in an area with lots of them, you might want to discriminate them out (or maybe not if you think there may be indians there).
mattockman
New member
n/t
mattockman
New member
If your sensativity is too high and you have hot rocks galore in ground you may want to tame it down till they go away. Dig and see what is making it go off in the high tones. Lead and aluminum, roofing nails,copper scraps, crown caps, and edges of rusty nails will make it sound like that. Rusty nails will sound high swinging coil one way and low the opposite way, and by noticing when tone comes in, focus on area where it looks to be and then pinpoint...you will notice it is actually off to the side of where you thought it was. That is the edge of rusty iron. Hope this helps.....if not you need to be with another person that knows the machine.
Sounds like you're in an iron infested area. What kind of place are you hunting? There are places where ferrous tones will drive you crazy. Without knowing anything more I can only recommend digging very repeatable tones that have a consistant tone to them. If you are infact detecting in iron some targets may not 'cross'... north-south east-west. If you're hunting in areas that have a decent amount of pulltabs, squaretabs, and foil you may want to use conduct tones.
-Bill
-Bill
Captain Kirk
New member
What are you finding when you dig the 00,31 tones? How deep are the targets?
Rusty nails will show up towards the upper right portion of the screen when the outer rim of the coil is over the nail. These are generally easy to overcome with carefully pinpointing (especially using the pinpoint mode). I also hunt FERROUS mode and this solves most of the rusty nail problem.
Where I hunt there are a lot (I mean a LOT) of buried sprinkler heads (Most are just below the surface, but some are down as deep as 6") that hit right where quarters hit. That is just a fact of life and you have to live with it.
HH,
Glenn
Rusty nails will show up towards the upper right portion of the screen when the outer rim of the coil is over the nail. These are generally easy to overcome with carefully pinpointing (especially using the pinpoint mode). I also hunt FERROUS mode and this solves most of the rusty nail problem.
Where I hunt there are a lot (I mean a LOT) of buried sprinkler heads (Most are just below the surface, but some are down as deep as 6") that hit right where quarters hit. That is just a fact of life and you have to live with it.
HH,
Glenn
Captain Kirk
New member
Pinpointing with the Explorer (using the DD coil) can be a challenge for the new user. But, after learning the proper techniques, it becomes a non-issue. When I first started I dug a lot of "empty" holes. Now I almost never have this happen.
Regarding those non-repeatable signals I might add the following thoughts. If you are discriminating out any targets, then this could result in quite a number of false targets. The reason for this is that the target must generally be located under the center strip of the coil in order to get a accurate identification . Many times the target will properly fall into the "discriminated range" (black part of the smart screen) when under the center strip of the coil, but will incorrectly fall in to the "accepted range" when near the outer edge of the coil. I suggest the following for non-repeatable signals. After getting a non-repeatable signal, then go to the all metal mode (open screen) and check the signal. If there is a real target down there, then this should produce repeatable signals.
A NOTE ON HOW TO QUICKLY SWITCH BACK AND FORTH BETWEEN THE ALL METAL AND DISCRIMINATING MODES
If you are hunting in a discriminated pattern other than IRON MASK, then do the following:
* Set up the discrimination pattern you wish to use for hunting.
* Go to the IRON MASK mode and set the mask to -16 (all metal mode). You will temporarily switch to this mode to check a suspicious target.
* Switch to the desired discrimination mode for your hunting.
* When you want to check the target, then switch to the IRON MASK mode (buy pushing the button twice). When through checking the target, then push the IRON MASK button once to return to the discriminate pattern.
If you are hunting in the IRON MASK mode with discrimination (-15 to 0), then use the following setup.
* Use the SELECT function to clear the screen. This will be the all metal mode for checking the target.
* Setup the desired IRON MASK level and turn IRON MASK on for hunting.
* When you get a non-repeatable or suspicious signal, then turn the IRON MASK off to check the target to see if you want to dig it.
* Return to the IRON MASK mode to continue hunting.
I have been using the above technique for quite some time. With a little practice the approach can become automatic and not require a second thought.
HH,
Glenn
Regarding those non-repeatable signals I might add the following thoughts. If you are discriminating out any targets, then this could result in quite a number of false targets. The reason for this is that the target must generally be located under the center strip of the coil in order to get a accurate identification . Many times the target will properly fall into the "discriminated range" (black part of the smart screen) when under the center strip of the coil, but will incorrectly fall in to the "accepted range" when near the outer edge of the coil. I suggest the following for non-repeatable signals. After getting a non-repeatable signal, then go to the all metal mode (open screen) and check the signal. If there is a real target down there, then this should produce repeatable signals.
A NOTE ON HOW TO QUICKLY SWITCH BACK AND FORTH BETWEEN THE ALL METAL AND DISCRIMINATING MODES
If you are hunting in a discriminated pattern other than IRON MASK, then do the following:
* Set up the discrimination pattern you wish to use for hunting.
* Go to the IRON MASK mode and set the mask to -16 (all metal mode). You will temporarily switch to this mode to check a suspicious target.
* Switch to the desired discrimination mode for your hunting.
* When you want to check the target, then switch to the IRON MASK mode (buy pushing the button twice). When through checking the target, then push the IRON MASK button once to return to the discriminate pattern.
If you are hunting in the IRON MASK mode with discrimination (-15 to 0), then use the following setup.
* Use the SELECT function to clear the screen. This will be the all metal mode for checking the target.
* Setup the desired IRON MASK level and turn IRON MASK on for hunting.
* When you get a non-repeatable or suspicious signal, then turn the IRON MASK off to check the target to see if you want to dig it.
* Return to the IRON MASK mode to continue hunting.
I have been using the above technique for quite some time. With a little practice the approach can become automatic and not require a second thought.
HH,
Glenn
If you're going crazy with high tones, make sure you have your X-1 switched to the coil and not the probe. If you have it switched to the probe you will get nothing but erratic tones. I did that a couple of times when I first got the probe. It kept picking up the keys I keep clipped to my belt. Fortunately, someone warned me about that when I bought it, so it only took me 10 minutes to figure it out 
Jim upstate NY
New member
Not much you can do if you get in an area with loads of them... What coil are you using? I find the best coil to use in hot rocks is the sunray X8, its most stable.. What ever you do dont use a coil bigger than the stock, or any of the oval coils there, as its even worse, Auto sens will help a bit. I have been in areas loaded with hot rock and it will drive you bananas after a while, and conductive and ferrous give you the same tome, so switching wont help. I suppose if you want you could put a small curser reject on the very top right corner to knock out some of it, as most coins wont read all the way up there. but your chancing it. Also try putting a quarter and nickel in the middle of one of those tones and see if you can still hear the quarter or nickel, you may not be able to get a distiguishable tone off any coin on top of the hot rock anyway.. If your whole area is like that, you may want to consider getting a sovereign, they handled hot rock much better than the explorer does
Hi
I would really be interested in a separate post on pinpointing..I am a new user and have been digging a few empty holes...I am getting the probe for the Explorer II. Im sure that will help!! Im really having a problem with shallow pennies..just cant seem to find them sometimes..Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...RonL
I would really be interested in a separate post on pinpointing..I am a new user and have been digging a few empty holes...I am getting the probe for the Explorer II. Im sure that will help!! Im really having a problem with shallow pennies..just cant seem to find them sometimes..Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...RonL
Captain Kirk
New member
Roni,
First, I would suggest that you search through the previous posts on the subject of pinpointing, Second, I would make sure you understand what the manual has to say on the subject. Everyone has their own ideas on pinpointing and I will offer you a few thoughts.
All references to the manual are the Explorer II manual.
THE DD COIL IS WILDLY DIFFERENT THAN MOST OTHER COIL DESIGNS
The manual does not say much about the DD coil, but page 60 gives you the basic idea. The DD coil is designed to produce a magnetic field that is relatively constant under the entire center strip of the coil. For this reason a target under the coil will sound about the same regardless of where the target is anywhere along that center strip of the coil. You can verify this as follows:
* Lay the detector on a non-metalic table with no metal objects in close proximity.
* Slowly "wiggle" (about a 1" side to side movement) a coin about 3" away from the bottom of the coil.
* Continue to "wiggle" the coin while moving the coin along the center strip of the coil from front to back (or back to front. It does not make any difference.). You will notice that the sound produced by the detector is about the same regardless of location of the coin as long as it is directly below the center of the coil. But as soon as the coin goes beyond the front or back of the coil, then the sound abruptly disappears.
This behavior makes it difficult to know just where the coins is other than below the center strip of the coil.
THE OUTER RIM OF THE COIL WILL ALSO PICK UP SHALLOW TARGETS
Now do a similar test to that above, but "wiggle" the coin VERY CLOSE to the underside of the coil (less than 1"), but away from the center strip of the coil. You will notice that the detector will also strongly indicate a target when the coin is under the OUTER ring of the coil. This is true around the entire circumference of the coil. This can cause a lot of confusion for targets near the surface of the ground. If the target is a coin, then you will notice that the detector tone will fall off quickly as the coin is moved farther away from the coil.
SUGGESTIONS ON PINPOINTING.
Follow the instructions on page 60 of the manual with a slight modification.
* While "wiggling" the coil over the target, then move the coil back towards you until the target tone ceases. At this point the target will be almost directly under the front edge of the coil. Having done this, then focus on spot on the ground where the tone ID ceased.
* Now approach the target from an angle 90 degrees as suggested by the manual (It is probably best to have the center of the coil passing over the target spot on this pass to get the best response).
ABOUT USING THE PINPOINT MODE
Most people become very proficient in pinpointing with the Explorer II without using the PINPOINTING mode. But, for the less experienced, I have found that using the PINPOINTING mode will allow one to very accurately determine the location of the target.
SUGGESTIONS FOR TARGETS CLOSE TO THE SURFACE
For targets that are close to the surface on can simply raise the coil a few inches off the ground while going through the pinpointing process.
Hope some of this is helpful.
HH,
Glenn
First, I would suggest that you search through the previous posts on the subject of pinpointing, Second, I would make sure you understand what the manual has to say on the subject. Everyone has their own ideas on pinpointing and I will offer you a few thoughts.
All references to the manual are the Explorer II manual.
THE DD COIL IS WILDLY DIFFERENT THAN MOST OTHER COIL DESIGNS
The manual does not say much about the DD coil, but page 60 gives you the basic idea. The DD coil is designed to produce a magnetic field that is relatively constant under the entire center strip of the coil. For this reason a target under the coil will sound about the same regardless of where the target is anywhere along that center strip of the coil. You can verify this as follows:
* Lay the detector on a non-metalic table with no metal objects in close proximity.
* Slowly "wiggle" (about a 1" side to side movement) a coin about 3" away from the bottom of the coil.
* Continue to "wiggle" the coin while moving the coin along the center strip of the coil from front to back (or back to front. It does not make any difference.). You will notice that the sound produced by the detector is about the same regardless of location of the coin as long as it is directly below the center of the coil. But as soon as the coin goes beyond the front or back of the coil, then the sound abruptly disappears.
This behavior makes it difficult to know just where the coins is other than below the center strip of the coil.
THE OUTER RIM OF THE COIL WILL ALSO PICK UP SHALLOW TARGETS
Now do a similar test to that above, but "wiggle" the coin VERY CLOSE to the underside of the coil (less than 1"), but away from the center strip of the coil. You will notice that the detector will also strongly indicate a target when the coin is under the OUTER ring of the coil. This is true around the entire circumference of the coil. This can cause a lot of confusion for targets near the surface of the ground. If the target is a coin, then you will notice that the detector tone will fall off quickly as the coin is moved farther away from the coil.
SUGGESTIONS ON PINPOINTING.
Follow the instructions on page 60 of the manual with a slight modification.
* While "wiggling" the coil over the target, then move the coil back towards you until the target tone ceases. At this point the target will be almost directly under the front edge of the coil. Having done this, then focus on spot on the ground where the tone ID ceased.
* Now approach the target from an angle 90 degrees as suggested by the manual (It is probably best to have the center of the coil passing over the target spot on this pass to get the best response).
ABOUT USING THE PINPOINT MODE
Most people become very proficient in pinpointing with the Explorer II without using the PINPOINTING mode. But, for the less experienced, I have found that using the PINPOINTING mode will allow one to very accurately determine the location of the target.
SUGGESTIONS FOR TARGETS CLOSE TO THE SURFACE
For targets that are close to the surface on can simply raise the coil a few inches off the ground while going through the pinpointing process.
Hope some of this is helpful.
HH,
Glenn
Thanks for that info..That is the techinque that I already use..I just have to keep at it.
The real problem that Im having is finding my target in really deep holes!!LOL
Last week I dug up a 1911 quarter at about 7 inches and now Im on the lookout for those deep signals...When my pinpoionter arrives, its going to come in really handy..The depth signal in most cases is really faint... and therefore hard to pinpoint.
Thanks again for responding..Ron L
The real problem that Im having is finding my target in really deep holes!!LOL
Last week I dug up a 1911 quarter at about 7 inches and now Im on the lookout for those deep signals...When my pinpoionter arrives, its going to come in really handy..The depth signal in most cases is really faint... and therefore hard to pinpoint.
Thanks again for responding..Ron L